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Old 05-24-2007, 03:21 PM   #21
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Step 1: Collect Parts
Step 2: Install Parts
Step 3: Troubleshoot
Step 4: Get Bored, Buy More Parts

Viscous cycle, welcome to the club.
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FHS View Post
If you can get all your components together (IC and hardware) before installing your turbo, do it. I guarantee you will have to deal with stock crossover pipe issues that will be a waste of time if you just hang on for a reasonable amount of time to install the IC and BOV along with everything else.

Tap the pan for your return line. Don't give it a second thought. Once you get the hardware together for the intsall, it takes 30 minutes even being overly cautious about measuring and drilling. There's enough information on this site about how to drill and tap that you shouldn't have an issue with it.
I would like to have everything there so I can do it all at once.

I am giving the pan tapping some second thoughts. I have both AC and PS and I'm seeing indications from other threads that tapping the pan is a bit difficult with both of those.

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Originally Posted by Newbsauce View Post
Step 1: Collect Parts
Step 2: Install Parts
Step 3: Troubleshoot
Step 4: Get Bored, Buy More Parts

Viscous cycle, welcome to the club.
I prefer the Torsion cycle, more durable!

Yeah, I'm predicting after the turbo, IC stuff, assorted turbo parts, new rear end (have the stock open diff) and then possibly a new clutch if I up the boost I'll be well over $2500 by the time this is all said and done. Well, that's still less than the BEGI or Flyin Miata kits!
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:05 PM   #23
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Tapping the pan with AC and PS is still the same procedure. Positioning the drill bit will take more care and time but basically, drill a hole, tap the hole, install the plumbing.
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harv View Post
I would like to have everything there so I can do it all at once.

I am giving the pan tapping some second thoughts. I have both AC and PS and I'm seeing indications from other threads that tapping the pan is a bit difficult with both of those.

nope, just as easy.

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Old 05-24-2007, 04:48 PM   #25
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nope, just as easy.

I saw that pic linked from your FAQ. Is that JB weld?

Do you guys just drill it out, tap it and then flush the pan with a few quarts of oil to get any shavings out? Or is there some procedure for keeping shavings from going into the pan? The guy I was talking with mentioned something about using some sort of grease while drilling to capture the shavings? I'm sorry if I'm not clear on how it all works. I've never tapped anything in my life.

A friend might be able to help me with the tapping procedure if I decide to go that route.
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:53 PM   #26
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:18 PM   #27
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Careful with the bent bolt. There is a good chance that there is some damage to the threads on the turbo. Same exact thing happened to me (the guy was a genius at packing :( ) When I installed the DP in the car for the first time the bolt siezed and snapped (grade 10.9 metric). Once I got the bolt out I ran a tap through and cleaned up the threads.

So, get a tap and run it through the holes before you install the thing. If you get ANY resistance back it out. Don't want to break the tap in there ...
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Careful with the bent bolt. There is a good chance that there is some damage to the threads on the turbo. Same exact thing happened to me (the guy was a genius at packing :( ) When I installed the DP in the car for the first time the bolt siezed and snapped (grade 10.9 metric). Once I got the bolt out I ran a tap through and cleaned up the threads.

So, get a tap and run it through the holes before you install the thing. If you get ANY resistance back it out. Don't want to break the tap in there ...
Good point. I will double check that one. The other two seem good to go, but I'm going to probably get new studs for each one.

Last edited by Harv; 05-24-2007 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:27 PM   #29
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Hmmm, so I need...

drill bit
tap
hose barb

It doesn't look too tough (famous last words). So the benefit is obviously that I don't have to route six feet of hose around the engine bay and risk kinking or other drainage issues.
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:17 AM   #30
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Ah, yes. I think I should have remembered someone suggesting that before. I guess I was wondering if I should upgrade the line, but then from what people say the stock line is good enough.

Is there any particular rubber hose I should ask for?

So are you guys saying the stock Greddy drain hose is ok to use?
I was going to tap the pan and buy some silicone hose but if i can reuse the stock hose when I tap the pan it would save a few $

What size connector would i need to tap with the greddy hose??

THanks
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:55 PM   #31
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I have a friend who is going to help me install the kit. He has done a bunch of different supercharger and turbo installs, but not the Greddy before.

He was thinking that I should upgrade my fuel pump. From reading the FAQ if I don't upgrade my 1.6 injectors and am running the Vortech FMU this is probably the right thing to do isn't it? Would I need to change the Vortech? I've heard of having to use different disks in it to adjust the ratios? I should probably search on the thing.

I was thinking the 190hp pump if anything.
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:58 PM   #32
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out of the box you dont need to change anything. if you add an intercooler and up the boost, then consider it, only if you need more than 75psi of fuel in the rail.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:04 PM   #33
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Before you put it on, I would suggest a simple compression test on your motor and check for leaky oil around your block.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:11 PM   #34
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out of the box you dont need to change anything. if you add an intercooler and up the boost, then consider it, only if you need more than 75psi of fuel in the rail.
Well, I've got the Stripes IC, but I wasn't planning on boosting past stock initially because of the stock clutch I've got in there. The pump isn't that much dough though, but if I install it would I need to get a different disk for the Vortech?

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Originally Posted by Slidin'Miata916 View Post
Before you put it on, I would suggest a simple compression test on your motor and check for leaky oil around your block.
Did a compression test on the car when I bought it which was about 5k ago.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:13 PM   #35
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Installing should be a breeze. And with the stock kit, I dont think a diff. disc is needed. Unless your in my boat where I have the 1.8 injectors, Im gonna try and get a leaner disc. I think I would be running too rich with the one thats in there now.
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:06 PM   #36
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Well, it looks like I will do the install on the 18th and 19th.

So far I have...

- Base Greddy Kit with manifold cuts made
- Stripes IC Pipes
- Flyin Miata heat shield
- Upgraded hoses for Greddy kit
- Upgraded bolts for Greddy kit (actually will get those when I get the bolts and stuff for the Stripes pipes, which I should probably get this weekend)
- 190HP fuel pump

Right now my intent is to install and tune for 5psi of boost initially so I don't think I need to get anything more to do that.

I have been thinking about getting...

- BEGI downpipe
- Anti-surge valve
- BEGI FPR

Maybe instead of going with the FPR I will just switch to Megasquirt PNP, but I'm not sure I have the wherewithal to make it work on my own.
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