Kraken T25 1.6 turbo kit & budget build
#62
Small update. Changed out my wideband for a new one to find out the old one was reading the same. Safe to say I think my tuners dyno wideband is the incorrect one. So to suit I've leaned out everything under 100kpa and tuned boost to 11 flat afr wise for now. Will work on that more later.
I've been chasing a very annoying issue. Ever since I put the 1.8 rear end in my car I've had some serious trans movement and a weird grinding/whining noise when I launch the hard or accelerate aggressively in 1st gear in particular. I've tried tightening all the ppf bolts. Loosening everything and realigning the ppf and everything and nothing has seemed to work. I'm at the point where I'm going to swap in poly diff bushings because I'm super super sick of the whole driveline feeling loose for a completely lack of a better word. Any ideas on this front otherwise? When I jack up my rear diff when all else is tight I find a 1/8th inch gap between the lower diff bushing and the thingy that bolts underneath it to the subframe. Is that normal?
On more positive news, I bring a picture of the swap in my ugly engine bay.
I've been chasing a very annoying issue. Ever since I put the 1.8 rear end in my car I've had some serious trans movement and a weird grinding/whining noise when I launch the hard or accelerate aggressively in 1st gear in particular. I've tried tightening all the ppf bolts. Loosening everything and realigning the ppf and everything and nothing has seemed to work. I'm at the point where I'm going to swap in poly diff bushings because I'm super super sick of the whole driveline feeling loose for a completely lack of a better word. Any ideas on this front otherwise? When I jack up my rear diff when all else is tight I find a 1/8th inch gap between the lower diff bushing and the thingy that bolts underneath it to the subframe. Is that normal?
On more positive news, I bring a picture of the swap in my ugly engine bay.
#65
I forgot to update this thread. The sound was PPF being out of alignment, somewhat considerably i'll admit(about 1 1/2" too low) and is gone once fixed. I also swapped out my spanked rear diff bushings for poly and upgraded to AWR engine mounts as well. Very nice to get rid of the absurd amount of slop that was in the combination of those sets of bushings.
As of now i'm still chasing some spark blowout/potentially knock around the 2600-3200rpm range. It feels more like spark blow out but multiple sets of new plugs and plug wires haven't done anything to cure it. I have also tried swapping the CAS with no luck. I have pulled 4-5 degrees of timing out of the area that has the stumble with no real success. I have also tried two sets of NA6 coil packs. Not sure what to do next so i figured i would ask here. 90 chassis with a 97 engine using most of the 90 hardware and sensors besides using the 1.8 alternator.
The weird part is it only occurs under light load/light throttle input and only at that specified RPM range. if i lean into boost it runs through that range without the hiccup hence why i believed my timing may have been too far advanced in that range.
As of now i'm still chasing some spark blowout/potentially knock around the 2600-3200rpm range. It feels more like spark blow out but multiple sets of new plugs and plug wires haven't done anything to cure it. I have also tried swapping the CAS with no luck. I have pulled 4-5 degrees of timing out of the area that has the stumble with no real success. I have also tried two sets of NA6 coil packs. Not sure what to do next so i figured i would ask here. 90 chassis with a 97 engine using most of the 90 hardware and sensors besides using the 1.8 alternator.
The weird part is it only occurs under light load/light throttle input and only at that specified RPM range. if i lean into boost it runs through that range without the hiccup hence why i believed my timing may have been too far advanced in that range.
#66
more updates. Chased that issue like crazy until i finally checked the timing again. I know i set it properly last time but i dont think i have been tensioning the belt correctly and it slipped a tooth. Reset it and tensioned it properly and it has been solid since than, no more wackyness around 3k rpm.
Also my 2560 **** the bed. Pretty much this turbo has given me nothing but issues since day 1. It shredded the compressor wheel within a hundred miles of its "rebuild" from the seller(who now no longer sells "rebuilt" turbos of course) and after replacing the wheel and rebuilding it it continued to burn oil like crazy regardless of feed and drain lines being modified. Ultimately due to being on a budget(building houses are expensive) I swapped back on my little sr20 t25 to keep the car running and drive in the mean time. The low and midrange is much more punchy compared to the 2560 but it definitely feels flatter up top. Overall it feels like its around the same 200-220wheel or so as the 2560 just with the curve moved in the lower RPM. I ran the 2560 at 10psi and am running the t25 around 12psi.
I also will reiterate this for any 1.6 guys, the same t25 on my 1.6 feels WAAAAAAAAY better on my 1.8. Long story short, upgrade to a 1.8 before you bother with the 1.6; literally everyone on the forum preaches this and it is for a very good reason. Keep in mind i'm also running a 96 block and head so even more gains are to be found with the 99/00 or VVT heads.
On another topic, I bought a 97 block and crank for cheap that I am planning on rebuilding from the ground up as a rods/stock pistons engine. Waiting on bearings and thrust washers and such but it won't be going in the car anytime soon anyway. Hoping to pair it with a 99 head but realistically i will use a 94 head my buddy has laying around just to save some money. Really only aiming for 300wheel or so max as I don't plan on upgrading anything transmission wise.
Also my 2560 **** the bed. Pretty much this turbo has given me nothing but issues since day 1. It shredded the compressor wheel within a hundred miles of its "rebuild" from the seller(who now no longer sells "rebuilt" turbos of course) and after replacing the wheel and rebuilding it it continued to burn oil like crazy regardless of feed and drain lines being modified. Ultimately due to being on a budget(building houses are expensive) I swapped back on my little sr20 t25 to keep the car running and drive in the mean time. The low and midrange is much more punchy compared to the 2560 but it definitely feels flatter up top. Overall it feels like its around the same 200-220wheel or so as the 2560 just with the curve moved in the lower RPM. I ran the 2560 at 10psi and am running the t25 around 12psi.
I also will reiterate this for any 1.6 guys, the same t25 on my 1.6 feels WAAAAAAAAY better on my 1.8. Long story short, upgrade to a 1.8 before you bother with the 1.6; literally everyone on the forum preaches this and it is for a very good reason. Keep in mind i'm also running a 96 block and head so even more gains are to be found with the 99/00 or VVT heads.
On another topic, I bought a 97 block and crank for cheap that I am planning on rebuilding from the ground up as a rods/stock pistons engine. Waiting on bearings and thrust washers and such but it won't be going in the car anytime soon anyway. Hoping to pair it with a 99 head but realistically i will use a 94 head my buddy has laying around just to save some money. Really only aiming for 300wheel or so max as I don't plan on upgrading anything transmission wise.
#67
Sounds like you're happy with your car is it sits right now. Always nice to hear people not having issues all day long.
If your 97 engine ***** the bed also, i would build your spare engine with some forged supertechs or something equal.
I know, its 500$, but make it bomb proof! Leaves so much more head room and that little bit knock protection...
If your 97 engine ***** the bed also, i would build your spare engine with some forged supertechs or something equal.
I know, its 500$, but make it bomb proof! Leaves so much more head room and that little bit knock protection...
#69
Sounds like you're happy with your car is it sits right now. Always nice to hear people not having issues all day long.
If your 97 engine ***** the bed also, i would build your spare engine with some forged supertechs or something equal.
I know, its 500$, but make it bomb proof! Leaves so much more head room and that little bit knock protection...
If your 97 engine ***** the bed also, i would build your spare engine with some forged supertechs or something equal.
I know, its 500$, but make it bomb proof! Leaves so much more head room and that little bit knock protection...
#70
Go any spool data for old and new?
I'm on the "on ramp" for a Kraken 1.6 and have been eyeballing a brand new 2554 but was considering 2560 first but was advised that the larger would not give as good driving experience with the wee 1.6 airflow.
I'd be interested in seeing the spool difference.
I'm on the "on ramp" for a Kraken 1.6 and have been eyeballing a brand new 2554 but was considering 2560 first but was advised that the larger would not give as good driving experience with the wee 1.6 airflow.
I'd be interested in seeing the spool difference.
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