DBs are terrible for anything in a car. Im honestly surprised there aren't more failures due to DBs in ECUs. Other than cost I cant see why DIYautotune decided to use them.

DB connectors are cheap.
CAN allows placement almost anywhere which means variable length as well as shielding so I've plumped to an RJ45 extension cord which I can snip, strip and wire up.

As I've basically already planned the next 10 years of modifications to the MS3 I feel I may be at a lost cause with bartering myself against it as my K3 is simply wonderful.

US to UK tuning huh thats a new one on me :D
How does that work with Tech and time difference?

I'm hoping the autotune will sort me out.
On that note also will the autotune sort me out after turbo install? Or do I get another base map to generalise from?

Does the Rev MS3 on a 1.6 support full sequential injection and ignition (with the associated parts eg trigger wheel and sensor)?
The hardware seems to be there but is the software and if it is how difficult is the switch over?
I know the benefit isn't much but fuel savings but that is what i want.

Well Rev has mail.
I have an injector harness I can "butcher" and I have a part finished COP setup from a decade ago.
So once I find more wiring information for injection and ignition I can sort that out.
Probably should try to find some addition connectors for the extra leds i guess too.

Which MS are you thinking of getting? The Basic I have has extra outputs on the DB that can be used as spark outputs, but it's for a 1.8 so has sequential fuelling anyway. I would imagine that the 1.6 either has another couple of pins in the DB or unused in the main harness to allow you do do sequential fuel as well.

The software is standard MS firmware now, nothing custom so that should support it as well - should just be a case of connecting it up and telling Tunerstudio what's different and off you go...

For the remote tuning, it's a lot of datalog / email to vlad / get updated map back / test / datalog / repeat until done. Well - I think that's how it's going to work out, he's massively busy at the moment so I'm waiting patiently in line for my turn to come around :) Autotune seems to do an OK job on the fuel side, but spark map tuning is a bit much for n00b me at the moment :)

I am, and I really appreciate your patience. It's been nuts, both remotely and in person. I actually took down my "remote tuning" signature line because I'm not taking any more cars until I finish at least a few more.

I've told Rev what Phoebe is (1992 1.6 long nose) and the bits I've got because of the Emerald as well as my short term desire to go sequential.
I've asked for MS3 Basic which has four injector drivers and four coils so can accomplish sequential injection and ignition if wired up.

From the 11+ pages for sequential injection and ignition on this forum at least 3 pages are MS3 Basic wiring up sequential injection and ignition (only about 1 full page is for the 1.6 though).
Most of the threads are diagnosis of something going wrong with no helpful information on how they got in that situation but I did find some rudimentary sequential fuel injection instructions (I'm sure there are better in here somewhere) and ignition I had found several posts stating which pins can be used (again no complete instructions found yet).

1. Get it running
2. Refine tune
3. Sequential
4. Reroute
5. New Radiator
6. Fun

I've asked for instructions about fitting a trigger wheel setup to the Basic too as it will just provide a more accurate sequential (ie no belt slip worry). Not that that is high on my list but it would be a nice to have if time permits.

I have a UPS tracking number :)

For the ECU?

Did Rev get back to you about the triggering? It should be fairly straightforward - mount the wheel and sensor, either run a new wire back to a spare input on the ECU (or possibly re-use the existing wiring) and change the settings in Tunerstudio to match the new triggering setup. Then go back through the basics like checking the timing offsets on the ECU vs.a timing light...

No he didn't but he did say its possible with the CAS which is fine although is like a rope bridge and a cable bridge. One just makes your bum a little squeaky even though its safe.

Its arrived. So I'll take the next few weekend to carefully do the advice in the fitment instructions slowly. Should be up and running then.
Noticed a few harness changes are needed after the Emerald though. Such as the IAT needs to be wired to the old AFM loom.

It doesn't have to be - it's just an easy way of doing things using existing wiring. if you already have an IAT loom going to where the ECU is located, I'd connect it there, rather than in the engine bay...

It doesn't but that is what the instrcutions say so I'll do that first then look at neatening things.
I hate the harness anyway. I'd love to strip it back and tuck it.
is my friends book (signed copy of course) so I'm actually well sourced for do it right but its down time which i hate.
He also did the turboot that many forums picked up and bitched about it being stupid. If he has an idea he will see it through for its fun.

Just had a thought about power.
What sort of power level is safe on a 1.6 with an intercooler and 2554?
I'm not looking at pushing boundaries just want to be safe. I've seen 270bhp mentioned and 250bhp as well as 250whp so I am at a loss for an honest idea.
Also what sort of boost would that be pushing?

Again I'm not here to set the world a lit. Just some playful oomph.
Doubling would be great. Doubling it to the wheels would be sphincter clenchingly wonderful.

A 2554 on a 1.6 is happy making about 200-220 WHP. which is more than double stock power output, which is like 90 WHP.
You'll be runing around 12-14psi.
I would not recommend to push the stock block past 220WHP or so, if reliability is important.

Thats rather wonderful. So my maximum fun goal is almost possible with zero concerns.

I'll shoot for 12psi then see how it goes.
After all I will very much be learning the squirt.

1. SkidNation Reroute
2. Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump
3. Bosch 640cc Injectors
4. Intercooler
5. Kraken Kit
6. BW EFR6258
7. Spare time

So this seems like it will be a better plan given once i've got the turbo i will want more oomph.
However, looking at pricing and searching here I have a conundrum.

Given I do not want to buy one thing then need to change it later and with a 1.8 engine being the obvious heart transplant when her time comes (and no sooner) there is more headroom in a 1.8 for safe power with only a few mods.
So this takes me to the fuel pump.
DW200 will sort the 1.6 until dead but not a budget built 1.8 so should i go to a dw300 or walbro 255?
I see dw300s mentioned but not walbro anymore, why?


I ask because my current information on a walbro 255 states:

• half the price of dw300 (£65)
• upto 500bhp support
• literal drop in fitment

Oh oracles of MT what am i missing in my madness.

DW is much quieter, more reliable, and has less power drain (wally is a power piggy that likes to roast wiring sometimes). Other than that, no good reason. I think the 200 is good for pretty good flow. What's your goal?

Decision changed.
On the 1.6 as stated earlier 232whp in perfect wonderful world but 232bhp is fine.
When she gets the new heart I'd love to hit 348whp but again 348bhp is fine.
This is hopefully years away as I wan't to build the engine slowly over time ready for when the 1.6 gives up.
I am not in a hurry to kill her off either so recommended power brackets are very welcome.
As this will be used as a DD (when not on the train) and a tracked.

Only the AEM roasts the wires. No Walbro has ever roasted any wires, and on top of that, the genuine Walbro 255 (GSS342) is the undisputed king of reliability. I have literally never, EVER heard of one failing. I have one in my car for the last nine years to back it up.

I am personally familiar with the noise difference and read several threads about the electrical issues before making my decision, but your personal results may vary. You may have never seen an issue and that is just fine. I sold a Walbro and went to a DW and won't go back.

It's probably also worth pointing out that a lot of the 'bargain' Warlbro pumps are cheap fakes - so if you do go that route make sure you buy from someone reputable...

It's worth noting that "my" results aren't just from my own car, but rather a summary of my experience of tuning hundreds of customer's Miatas over 10 years - and trust me, if there was ever a single on any of the cars I've tuned, customers would give me a call first rather than their mechanic/shop. I never recommended any other pump other than a Walbro, and exactly 0 of any car I tuned over these last 10 years had a single issue.

The noise, that's a different issue altogether and I have no experience with the DW pumps as far as noise is concerned.

I had a single customer with an AEM 320(?) pump and he did melt his wires.

DW pumps are in kits. So hopefully you can answer this about them.
Does the kit form a drop in replacement or is there modification necessary?

They are made to fit in the factory pump hanger.

Deatschwerks Fuel Pumps (DW100/200/300)

There's a section on fitment on there..

I went with a DW200 - with no options for E85 in the UK, the extra hassle of the DW300 is probably overkill for what I can realistically achieve power wise... I also hardwired it while it was all apart...

Excellent.
By hassle do you mean the needed FPR change? I see that as more sensible because its a serious pump so you should be doing that anyway.

I picked it up from Trackspeed when I was over in the US on a work trip, had a chat with Andrew/Savington and we came to the conclusion that the DW200 would be good for what I wanted, wouldn't require a regulator change and is an easier fitment as it drops straight in where the larger one requires a bit of fab work.

Edit : fitment is the same, the DW400 is the one that requires extra work.

What is what you wanted by the way?
There isn't any horsepower ranges on TS (which i would trust more than manufacturer estimates) so i wonder if the DW200 can hit my heart transplant goal (which i hope i won't need for a while).
Oh that isn't stated on the site. What was the fab work? Did Andrew detail it?

Initial goal is somewhere round the 300rwhp mark, on standard fuel - the DW200 should be able to cope with that with no problems.

Actually - searching it's the DW400 that requires the extra work as it's physically bigger. DW300 just needs the external FPR and uprated wiring, my mistake.

My big boy pants goal is 342rwhp (or triple my initial power) but that will be once Phoebe's heart goes anyway. So its looks like my goal is borderline realistically.
I'd prefer to tart up the fuel system anyway for safety so maybe its just better than way.

A grown up can probably comment as to if the DW200 is big enough for that, on normal fuel probably... But, if you are dropping the large amount of cash to aim for 342whp and everything supporting that it will entail, then a few extra quid for a fuel pump and regulator makes very little difference overall..

This is my thoughts also but if it isn't needed I'm happy.

On the buy it once front.
Can someone comment on a 1.6 with a EFR6258?
I know its a big boy turbo on a little lad engine so spool won't be as peaky as most of the sites say but has anyone actually tried it?

The text from TSE says it spools like a 2554 which was my planned turbo but getting an EFR now would save getting another turbo later.
Will it spin up say 750rpm slower (which is pretty copable) or is like 2000rpm?

I'd just like some data.

it spools more like a 2560, and ive had both.

it will be fine on a 1.6L. yes it will spool a tad slower, but its a fast spooling turbo by any measure, so it'll be just fine. my car gets real happy from 3200rpm or so, so a 1.6L will probably come alive closer to 4k rpm

That is better than i was expecting so perhaps that is a better option for my progress given the expense of an EFR.
Even my most wild dreams only go just above the supposed capacity of the 6258 so I'm happy to have a bit of lag until the 1.8 goes in and keep on the side of sanity for power.
After all that will make servicing intervals better.

If anyone else has experience or even better a log that would be great.

1st Post - I`ve been researching a drive in/out turbo conversion for my 1.6 91 NA, and I`ve chosen to book in with Mtech in the UK.
Given how this thread comes up prominently in search engines when looking up Mtech, I`ll be posting my experiences here to give others an idea of what they are like to deal with.
Car is booked in for for the TD04 Turbo conversion using the ME221 ECU, plus a new clutch and a sports cat. I`ve also asked them to configure launch control for me. I`ll be dropping the car down to them on Dec 31.

Cheers.