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Old 08-26-2008, 02:28 PM   #41
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then follow what i posted minus the stroker motor and the 2860. the 2560 is perfect. the majority of the price for begi's s3 is from the intercooler. you can save like 1k if you just go the ebay route like most of us on here. get a -s and add the 2560 for an extra 200. drop the FPR -150 and it basically balances out.
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:34 PM   #42
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I like the idea of $1000 cheaper, haha. Sounds like a plan. Now if only my car will sell... I really hope I don't have to end up trading it in.

Edit: I think that BPV from Begi for $135 is a rip off, shouldn't I just buy a by-pass valve separately? I'm thinking I will give BEGi a call when I am ready and sort this all out.

Edit again: Also, if I want to stay fully street legal, isn't the BEGi S3 worth the extra cash?

Last edited by bedheadben; 08-26-2008 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:02 AM   #43
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Edit again: Also, if I want to stay fully street legal, isn't the BEGi S3 worth the extra cash?
I'm gonna throw a few modifier ideas out there and build on what others have already laid out.

Since this is a DD, and a California car, I'd consider cutting back a bit on the engine itself, and spending a bit more on the turbo system and a few other bits. You don't need a $6,500 "built" motor to run street tire levels of power. Spend a little more money on the base vehicle itself and get something clean and nice. Basically anything '90 to '95, with a preference for '94-'95 so you'll already have the larger diff. So long as the motor isn't smoking and blows consistent numbers on a compression test, leave it alone.

Spend the money on the turbo system. Get a Bell S1 thru S3 (your choice) with the full BEGi fuel system, so that you get the CARB sticker. Put it together and run it that way. Also get yourself a decent clutch and an Enthuza exhaust. And a wideband O2 sensor.

Also, set aside $2,000 to $2,500 of the money you didn't spend on the engine for your suspension. Springs, shocks, bumpstops, front swaybar, and all the little bits. Plus a set of 15x7 wheels and some RE-01R tires. In fact, do this before you go turbo.

If you wish, you may decide down the road to go with better engine management such as a Megasquirt. And if you blow up the motor, then you can make a choice to either buy another cheap used one and stick it in, or spend the money on the big fancy "built" engine. But truthfully, few of us here have them.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:34 AM   #44
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Ben, I can't believe some of the **** you're being fed in this thread. Some of the advice is downright absurd.

It's obvious you're doing some homework and are genuinely interested in this project, so I'm gonna chime in on the backside of Joe's advice.

If you're set on an NA, then 94-95 is absolutely the way to go. Assuming you start out with a $5k car with a good motor and have $7k to spend on mods... make sure you find a car with some mods already on it. They're out there, be patient. The car of your dreams with a bunch of mods already on it will present itself. How about this one: http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show
It's got everything on it except a turbo. You can blow your whole wad on boost. Sell the supercharger and NA exhaust to recover some costs and you're still looking at $7k+ to spend on turbo. The good news is that you don't need to spend near that much money.
I'd stick with a straight BEGi S3/2560 and an Enthuza cat-back. You'll need the Walbro 190lphHP fuel pump to get enough fuel pressure... 305cc injectors too. Get yourself a TT FuelRail, LC1+gauge, 3.9gearset, and MBC... set for 10psi and call it 200whp. That's how to stay CARB Legal.

Or... and here's the awesome part. Get yourself a Megasquirt PnP w/EBC/MAFdelete, and some RX7 460's. Run the second output from your LC1 to the MS (first goes to the gauge). You run 12-14psi at around 240whp 364 days per year.

On smog day, you pull the MS and plug the stock ECU back in. Swap your 460's for stock fuel injectors. Un-bypass the AFPR. Plug the MAF back in. This process takes less than an hour. Go pass smog. Come home and reinstall MS.

As Joe suggested, do your homework on ACT clutches.
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Old 08-27-2008, 01:25 AM   #45
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+1 on everything sam said. btw california FTL
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:36 AM   #46
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disturbedfan you fucktard. You go and correct a guy by saying the stroker is only $6500; then you post a link to FM's built 1.6 and 1.8's that are $6500. The stroker (aka 2.0L) is indeed $10,000 and out of his budget.

I agree with what everyone is starting to say on this third page, no need for even a built 1.6 or 1.8 if you're just looking for 12psi and a modest build, take what joe and sam say as free money, be happy you've got this much advice. I think we're all day dreaming as to what we'd do if we had $12k to drop on miata+mods, because most of us would never have that much
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:27 AM   #47
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disturbedfan you fucktard. You go and correct a guy by saying the stroker is only $6500; then you post a link to FM's built 1.6 and 1.8's that are $6500. The stroker (aka 2.0L) is indeed $10,000 and out of his budget.
wow you are right, my bad. i didn't even realize
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:29 PM   #48
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that's alright, I probably drool over that engine while flipping off the price tag too much...
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Old 09-12-2008, 03:44 AM   #49
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I finally got my WRX sold, and I've already gone to look at one NA just to compare the one I'm really considering to. Gonna check out the good looking NA this Sunday.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...ce=&cardist=34
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