Now I'm even more confused! I hope this is some kind of joke. What did I do to make you angry? Was it the squinty smiley? Dang, name calling already. I was expecting the Miata community to be more accepting and kinder than the WRX community, and the other users in this thread have already been proving that it really is a good group of people. I'm just trying to do a little research before buying a Miata because it will influence which years I look for, not sure how that makes me a poser.

 

give me your phone #. We need to talk about how its going to be around here.

 

 

Okay okay, now I know you're joking. Still, with that one guy being banned after his first post, you never know.

 

Hey, he had clear, simple options...either PM me nudes of your girlfriend, or GTFO.

 

And yes, I will use the introduction forums, or we could even move this there.

 

if you only want 220whp, it would be dumb to switch to a 1.8. I have a 1991 and I'm in the very long process of swapping in a 99 motor. Considering that Ii haven't driven the car yet, if I could do it all over again, I'd keep the 1.6. Well see if the 1.9l 99 motor is worth it one I fire this bitch up in 2 weeks.

 

Why do you recommend the 1.6 over the 1.8 if I can get them both for the same price? Doesn't the 1.8 have a few nicer things like brakes and the diff? Also, why would someone buy the S2 package over the S4 package if they are only a $200 price difference? Just curious. Faster spool maybe?

 

I only read the first post and didn't see the price discussion. Only buy a 1.6 if its a good enough deal to still pay cash for the torsen rear and 1.8l brake swap. So basically, $1200 price differential.

The cast manifold in the s2/3 is more reliable than the tubular. That's the sole reason I went with it.

 

S4 isn't CARB approved. All of the others BEGI are (for 99 and older).

Many in CA don't care about CARB compliance but it's one more worry I don't have.

http://www.bellengineering.net/pages.php?pID=4

 

Mt.net has some tough crowd, especially if your a noob. Don't mess with husler or he'll e-thug you every chance he gets. That or mods will ban you just for the hell of it!

 

So I should get S3 with BEGi fuel if I want to stay legal? I'm assuming there will be good gains with an exhaust afterwards too.

 

If your confused by Hustler then you obviously need to stop posting and read some of the past post from this site, there is so much info that you wont have anything to post for days.

 

Joking; what are you talking about? I'm a bit surprised you haven't been banned already with your asking noob questions you can get simply by using the search function. This isn't kindergarten.

 

OBD-II vs OBD-1

The reason you want a '95 or earlier car is that they aren't OBD-II. Starting with '96, the cars all have OBD-II computers in them. Part of the emissions testing for CA, OR, and numerous other states is hooking up to the engine computer to read the OBD-II codes.

No aftermarket engine management systems return OBD-II codes. I believe this is Federal Law - only the OEM systems can return those codes.

So if you get a 94 or 95, you have more flexible engine management options, because the system doesn't have to return those codes to begin with.

There are options for the later year cars. The XEDE system, distributed by BEGI in the US for Miatas, works in-line leaving the OEM computer in place. BEGI has had around 10 cars or so pass OBD-II emissions test with the XEDE installed. I am planning to go this route with my own car. But CA has a visual inspection as well (OR does not) so unless you've got a CARB sticker for the turbo, you'll still fail. Even though your car may well pass a sniffer test and be no more polluting than it was before modifications. Thanks gubmint !

So, in your case, from an emissions perspective, the easiest way to go is with a 94 or 95. The emissions test won't include reading the OBD-II codes, so you can run any engine management you want, including ditching the OEM system entirely and going with a MegaSquirt or a Hydra.

Edit: It is possible, and numerous people have done it, to run a MegaSquirt, Hydra, or other system in parallel with the oem computer. But such a setup is significantly more complicated to install.

 

Thanks for clearing up all that OBD stuff. I'm doing more research on em now.

 

is the car going to be a DD? or do you want a weekend warrior/trackslut? if you got 12k buy any miata with a torsen you want, just make sure the body is good, spend 6k and buy an FM stroker motor and never worry about it blowing up again.

$3000-miata
$6500- FM stroker motor
$450- HDHCHTDD
$700-MSPNP
$500- AGX w/springs
$2000-begi -s w/2860
$100-ebay intercooler
$100- ebay intercooler piping

^ done. only like $1000 over budget lol i chose the 2860 cause of the stroker motor, should be able to spool is np. You can get the rollbar used and find the MSPNP cheaper too.

 

The built stroker motor is 10k, and the kit is 4200, so I'm not sure where you are getting those numbers from. And if he was going to stroke it with exhaust, I think a GT3071R would be a better choice of turbo.

He didn't need that much power. I wouldn't blow all that money on a stroker if I was just going to run 12 psi. I would be jacking that **** up to like 30, then we're talking new driveline.

 

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...umber=04-01000

^6500

thats why i asked if he was going to daily the car. if he is then dont bother with a stroker. but if its gonna be a track car and you wanna build a ridiculous miata, well then there is a part of the solution

 

Yes the car is going to be my daily, and I don't need anywhere near that much power. Just looking to be roughly the same as how my wrx is now. It will still see the track occasionally, but most of the time it'll be on the street.