MSM manifold - turbo gasket
I blew the manifold to turbo gasket twice this year while out on track. Using standard, not inconel hardware which I know is part of the problem. I want to fix it one more time, properly. Should I...
1 - Replace the gasket and add inconel 2 - Install inconel with no gasket 3 - Resurface turbo/manifold flat and add inconel with no gasket I know a lot of you are running gasket-less. How flat do the flanges need to be? I'd like to stick a feeler gauge under a straight edge on the turbo and if flat enough avoid the giant pain in the ass that is pulling a MSM turbo. Is a HD Racing combination square straight (:giggle:) enough for this measurement? |
option 3 = win
as for the flat part: its either flat or its not. if its not, it will leak. lol |
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I'll have to find a piece of glass and see how straight my 3/8 extension is. What's the biggest feeler gauge I should allow between the straight edge and flange? Do I need another option?
4 - Don't be a bitch and pull that shit already |
Oh, option 4 definitely.
No need for the extension straight option on a turbo/manifold, it's small enough you can get a straight edge like the one you listed to work. The extension is for a bigger surface, like your block. I'm not sure on which feeler gauge would be good to use, you'd think it wouldn't have to be as flat as a block, but I really don't know how sensitive it is to being out of flat. |
if you machine it right you shouldn't be able to get any feeler gauge anywhere. it will be FLAT
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Flat is .000". If it's not .000", it's not flat.
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Thanks. Flat it is. I really wish you sold a M8x1.25 Inconel kit Savington. It's tight as-is and I'm not sure M10 nuts will fit.
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Originally Posted by midpack
(Post 966848)
Thanks. Flat it is. I really wish you sold a M8x1.25 Inconel kit Savington. It's tight as-is and I'm not sure M10 nuts will fit.
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Inconel 718 turbo stud Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 locking turbo hardware(8mm) If you can't get the m10 to work, those might do the trick (albeit not as stout as the m10 solution). |
1 Attachment(s)
Just out of interest are you using the OE turbo brace that ties the turbo to the block?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357793500 |
Yep
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That is one piece I still have to find for my MSM turbo swap. Is there any reason not to run that brace? I got the FM 8mm Inconel studs a while back and they appear to fit perfectly on the MSM hardware lenthwhise.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 966839)
Flat is .000". If it's not .000", it's not flat.
I'd bet $5 of monopoly money no one's ever done that on this forum. |
My turbo to mani seal used a little wheel bearing grease as discussed in another thread from a few years back. It fill the minute gaps and turns to hard carbon as it warms up.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 967393)
So you're suggesting he requires a ground surface on his manifold and turbo to create an adequate seal?
I'd bet $5 of monopoly money no one's ever done that on this forum. |
You've had your manifold and turbo professionally ground? Grats on the overkill.
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On both of my turbo setups (old ass 300zx t25 & used HKS mani / Chinacharger & Flying miata cast mani) I was able to just bolt the turbo to manifold with no gaskets and had zero leaks. OP, have you tried just running it without a gasket?
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Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
(Post 967410)
You owe me $5 or monopoly monies.
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 967501)
You've had your manifold and turbo professionally ground? Grats on the overkill.
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Belt sanded is not .000 flat. .000 flat is ground like your crank shaft bearing surface. Except that's round obviously.
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Machined=/=belt sanded
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