So started my install of my "FMII" gt2560r kit. My parts are listed in my sig for reference, so you can yell at me if I'm doing something wrong.

Started off by taking off the header, yada yada. Looked at the feed line and realized its way too ******* short for a 96-05 cars. Got really lucky and remembered my new block is from a 94

Then the fun started, cut and beat the frame down:
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also grinded it
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Drilled the pan, wasn't too hard.
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lots of shavings though, between the gease on the bit and tap and all the gallon of mineral spirits I believe i got all of them out.
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little crooked lol
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assembled the manifold and turbo
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then figured out I couldn't fit the whole assembly in without beating the frame in another 1/2" inch. Either that or I was doing something wrong

so I just stuck the manifold on by itself
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then mounted the turbo to it, which is a PIA
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then mounted my FMIC just to see how it looked haha, its the 19x15x3
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it filled the gap fairly nicely .


Thats all I got so far, the IAT sensor from DIY just came in, waiting on the boost controller from FM which should also be today. I'm unfortnately still running stock injectors for the moment so I'll be running 5-6psi or something as long as I don't exceed 90% duty cycle. Still needing bushings for my torsen so I'm also on open diff atm, it should be fun haha.

All feedback is welcome

 

I never even changed my oil after drilling and tapping my pan, drove another 2k miles on it.

I would paint the frame that you beat down because it will rust and look nasty.

 

looks good man

 

I'd rather change the oil and flush it to be on the safe side. Why risk it.....

Good job man When I notched the frame for the turbo I just made two cuts with the die grinder and bent the metal a couple times until it came off. But I guess beating the **** out of it with a hammer works just fine.

 

I dont know, something about two filters and a baffle being in the way for it to make a difference.

 

Well I made the mistake of trying to get the elbow off the turbo and had to make a run to autozone to get another lock nut. Having lots of trouble getting the bottom right nut on the turbo to manifold flange. Its just very annoying, but figured out the elbow was even more frustrating lol.

Was anyone able to drop the manifold+turbo assembly in at once? It'd be grand if I could of but it was hitting the front studs on the head and the frame :(

Was also trying to think ahead, I'm getting ready to go searching for a base map for MS once I turn it over with the turbo and IAT installed but if anyone has a quick link that'd save me some time.

 

flip the IC around.

 

aww u dont like the fm symbol?

 

Unless youre getting paid to rep, why do it?

 

thinkin about going all black anyways hah. what was the negative effect, like a -.000253745% efficiency?

 

has nothing to do with FM, it could say anything and I'd say the same.

The loss of efficiency is so insignificant, let's round up to a 0% loss.

 

its in, its running, now im tuning. small leak at the heater hose, waiting for it to cool off to get it on there fully. its 100x quieter haha.

 

Congrats

 

I never understood this idea.. "Tuner" shops CHARGE customers for Sticker to advertise their shitty business?? That doesn't make sense and I see it everyday around here.. "Nu-Image"

Not talking trash on a vendor, just a general statement.

 

checklist for thieves.

 

We only paint one side of the IC so the installer can decide if he wants to show the FM or not. Most do, but to each their own.

Nice work on getting it in! You can put the turbo/manifold combo on the engine without splitting it, but you might need someone to help pull the engine to one side a bit. Loosening a motor mount and using a jack to lift the engine will work just as well.

 

i dont mind the black FM on the IC. but it probably wouldn't show up well on mine since the negative space around it is also black

 

thx for the feedback. its still running pig rich pre-4500 rpm, but holy dog **** does it pull after that. I can't imagine what 12-14psi feels like vs my current 6psi lol.

just trying to get it tuned seeing how the fuel table is so rich pre-4500.

couple of things, torsen needs to be installed, ill need to start saving for more street tires, MOAR BOOST!

 

oh yeah, finished product. really dirty, ah well.

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So the lil bar from the acuator to the wastegate popped off. put it right back on. is this normal, should i jb weld that on there or is that a bad idea if i have plans of an external?

help a nub out! at work atm, when i get home im guna search for similiar posts.