Need help with my 97 miata set up
#1
!!! NOT CONFIRMED !!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 20
Total Cats: 0
Need help with my 97 miata set up
i have a 97 miata and i want to turbo the motor. i just have a couple questions about doing this. I plan on taking out the motor and putting all new guts inside. One of my questions is what would be the best compression ratio to run with a gerrett T25 Turbo? Even know it will have all new gutts how much boost will my stock engine block be able to take. What kind of rods and connecting rods should i get. I'm not to farmiliar with what kind of interal name brand parts i should get and or what i should get? Could someone help me out by either a list of good quality parts that will be able to handle around 20psi? Please help me out.
#8
A T25 will flow enough CFM of air for about 240rwhp. Probably 360cfm or so? That probably equates to ~16psi or so with our motors.
You don't really need to replace valves or springs for running more boost, as long as you don't plan to exceed ~7500 RPM since the valves begin to float after that.
You don't really need to replace valves or springs for running more boost, as long as you don't plan to exceed ~7500 RPM since the valves begin to float after that.
#10
Pay attention to the internals, and especially in rods.
The stock 9/1 pistons can handle much power, but the stock rods, doesn't.
So, go with forged pistons and rods, arp studs, cometic gasket etc.
And about for the turbo, it is in your opinion what you 'll use.
You want power at middle rpm? Power at high?
The stock 9/1 pistons can handle much power, but the stock rods, doesn't.
So, go with forged pistons and rods, arp studs, cometic gasket etc.
And about for the turbo, it is in your opinion what you 'll use.
You want power at middle rpm? Power at high?
#11
!!! NOT CONFIRMED !!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 20
Total Cats: 0
i want the power to be in the middle prob. start pulling hard around 3500-4000. so please give me suggestions and tell me what you think i should go with for parts since you already have done it so you know.
#14
Why are you so dead set on running 20PSI? The T25 is out of it's efficiency range at this boost level and you'd just be blowing hotter, less dense air, not making more power. The stock block should be fine for anything that this turbo will throw at it (if tuned properly and supporting mods are performed). If you decide the HP level you would like to attain, you can pick a turbo which is suited towards making the power level that you desire within it's efficiency range.
#16
Matt, even a big ported T28 is at the very edge of efficiency at 20psi, a T25 will not get you there. At that point, you're into the T3/4 range. The very best advice any of us can give you is this. First, buy a book called "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. Read it twice. Second, start reading through the posts here and in the Forced Induction forum at miata.net. Read all the posts here and there over the past month to get your feet wet about the local lingo, companies that serve the Miata community, and how to go about your project.
Also, the guys are right, a PSI goal means nothing. You need to set a horsepower goal. Just for kicks, lets say you could get 300rwhp, which is a good bet for 20psi on the 1.8.
Except it's not a 1.8 anymore, it's a 2.0 w/FM's stroker kit. Don't foget about the Hydra EMS and all the peripherals to run it. What else... OH YEAH, RX7 full drivetrain, ACT Stage3, Wilwoods, Rota's, Full Suspension, Roll Bar, Installation, Tuning, etc...
Engine: $4000
Full RX7 driveline swap: $2500
Clutch: $400
Brakes: $1200
Wheels/Tires: $1500
Shocks/Springs/Sways: $1000
Roll Bar/Chassis Stiffening: $1000
Installation and tuning: $3000
All these numbers are guesses and probably on the low side. I hope you've got about $15000. You could do it for cheaper by skimping here and there, but not much cheaper. Ie, you could skip new brakes, but the stock ones don't work very well above about 120mph.
Bottom line, you need to do way more homework before you spend a dime. You should start by setting lower goal and working up from there. I just bought a stock DSM T25 and plan on running 8-9psi which should get me about 180rwhp. If I wanted to up the boost, my next step would be eManage Ult. and a bump to about 12psi which should take me to the 220rwhp range (and maxing out the T25) for another $500 (but then I absolutely need a new dif). If you are stingy and take your time (buy used) you can do 220rwhp with full engine management for about $2500. But you need to do your homework on what to buy.
For an idea:
Used Link: $1000
Used DP/Mani/T25orGreddy: $800
IC/Pipes/BOV: $400
Boost Gauge/MBC/injectors/Plugs/tools/misc/etc...: $300
Rough guesses and probably low, but I've seen it done for even less than that.
Remember, even a fully loaded Miata weighs in about 700lbs less than your Civic buddies. They're gonna need about 270fwhp to beat your 220rwhp.
Also, the guys are right, a PSI goal means nothing. You need to set a horsepower goal. Just for kicks, lets say you could get 300rwhp, which is a good bet for 20psi on the 1.8.
Except it's not a 1.8 anymore, it's a 2.0 w/FM's stroker kit. Don't foget about the Hydra EMS and all the peripherals to run it. What else... OH YEAH, RX7 full drivetrain, ACT Stage3, Wilwoods, Rota's, Full Suspension, Roll Bar, Installation, Tuning, etc...
Engine: $4000
Full RX7 driveline swap: $2500
Clutch: $400
Brakes: $1200
Wheels/Tires: $1500
Shocks/Springs/Sways: $1000
Roll Bar/Chassis Stiffening: $1000
Installation and tuning: $3000
All these numbers are guesses and probably on the low side. I hope you've got about $15000. You could do it for cheaper by skimping here and there, but not much cheaper. Ie, you could skip new brakes, but the stock ones don't work very well above about 120mph.
Bottom line, you need to do way more homework before you spend a dime. You should start by setting lower goal and working up from there. I just bought a stock DSM T25 and plan on running 8-9psi which should get me about 180rwhp. If I wanted to up the boost, my next step would be eManage Ult. and a bump to about 12psi which should take me to the 220rwhp range (and maxing out the T25) for another $500 (but then I absolutely need a new dif). If you are stingy and take your time (buy used) you can do 220rwhp with full engine management for about $2500. But you need to do your homework on what to buy.
For an idea:
Used Link: $1000
Used DP/Mani/T25orGreddy: $800
IC/Pipes/BOV: $400
Boost Gauge/MBC/injectors/Plugs/tools/misc/etc...: $300
Rough guesses and probably low, but I've seen it done for even less than that.
Remember, even a fully loaded Miata weighs in about 700lbs less than your Civic buddies. They're gonna need about 270fwhp to beat your 220rwhp.
Last edited by samnavy; 10-01-2006 at 09:29 AM.
#17
!!! NOT CONFIRMED !!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 20
Total Cats: 0
through all these reply's i am now understanding more and more and that is what i wanted to do. i wanted people to give me advise because i have never messed around with turboing a non-turbo car. all the cars i have played with i just had to swap the turbo. so i am going to listen to everyone since all have you seem to know what your talking about.. i found this kit i am going to buy from http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ . i am going to get the extreme kit. Someone check it out and let me know what they think about running 12psi out of that turbo and what internals i will need to run with that kit.
#18
I would not buy that, $2500 for a T25 and a few goodies... If I were you I would make a list of all the parts you are going to want. Look around and buy used parts for things that are just as reliable used ex. emanage then shop for a new turbo (many go used but then you have to know if it has shaft play ect. and some people have had horror stories from buying used turbos) I think you will save a lot of money that way. If I could do it over again I would go DIY, but when I started out I didnt know anything about turbos so I bought the greddy kit. I really wish I went with a T3 but back then I didnt know what I wanted. Take some time and look around before you make a decision, thats my .02
#19
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,494
Total Cats: 4,080
Don't, without more info on the kit
more boost = more fuel, make sure you know what you are doing.
none.
let me know what they think about running 12psi out of that turbo
what internals i will need to run with that kit.