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NC Turbo kits for big power

 
Old 07-25-2017, 03:45 PM
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Default NC Turbo kits for big power

Hi guys,

New to the site and to Miata in general. My good friend who is on this forum had a good power NA years back and is now doing a big power NA again.

We have more funds than we did 10 years ago so have the budgets to do things well.

Ive bought a 2014 NC and want to get a big power turbo kit. Ive researched and researched and its very limited for NC. The read up on the Fab9 kit was excellent however as my friends recent post has clarified, they don't get the best reputation.

Im now stumped. I want to build the car with variable maps. Maybe 200whp, 300 and 400.

Im now lost as don't know what turbo kit is best after my dreams being shattered with fab9.

What do you guys suggest?

Cheers in advance.

Steve
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Old 07-25-2017, 04:31 PM
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FWIW Steve has a track record of building stupid **** and spending way too much money on car builds (think s2000 full caged car, 600hp with $10,000 quaife gearboxes, Alcon 8 pot floating brake setups on his works van and you'll be getting close). I'd love to see this come to fruition. Talks of 400whp sound stupid but his 'daily' is a McLaren 650s so it has got to be a fun car with a bit of power behind it!
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:16 PM
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You could check out TDR, turbos done right (IIRC) not Track Dog Racing, but Im pretty sure everyone hears hates their shenanigans.
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:19 PM
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I think you mean Turbo's done Rong, or Turbo's done Retarded.

I'd go with FAB9 before that joker any day
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:36 PM
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It seems no1 gets a good rep haha.

we have bbr here in the uk. Maybe best to stick with them. Would love to deal with FM but they do not offer turbo for NC. I find this very strange.
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Old 07-25-2017, 06:48 PM
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FM aint even a little bit what it used to be. Even more sad and embarrassing is what BEGi has become. It's sad, but such is life.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:40 PM
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The NC is the bastard stepchild of the miata world.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:44 PM
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Wow friendly bunch.

unfortunately with Scottish weather, there isn't much left of the NA and NB cars. Most are piles of rust. Otherwise we I would happily build an NA or NB as oartsbare a lot cheaper.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:57 PM
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they're nice cars, but the aftermarket for them for whatever reason is really limited, and not many good companies make parts for them.

what about an ND? with an EFR turbo setup
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:04 PM
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I was going to go with an ND but limited to 250hp as the high compression. We then decided no problem as we will build engine for lower compression. But with research the tranny and diff are weak. Can't handle more than 250-270. I need 400 😃
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:21 AM
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Have you thought about finding a rust free NA or NB and importing it? Must be some left in the US.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:36 AM
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Or impress everybody and go custom

efr6758
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:15 AM
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We are RHD here. And driving a LHD in Scotland would be far from fun. Great idea though.

haha I've been down the road of custom builds and it never ends well. Massive amounts of cash and I never get to an end result. I just want a simple bolt on brakes, suspension, turbo etc.

We have bbr over here in the uk. Just found out they do a 390hp kit! Think I will go with that. Their reputation is outstanding.
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:40 PM
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Go totally custom with a turbo kit, itll be more fun and interesting that way.
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:56 PM
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Couple of us NC guys are making north of 300whp on pump (93) using the Fab 9 EFR 6758 on a stock/ECUTek ECU without much issue. On C20 fuel (unleaded non-oxygenated) I can see making 400whp without an issue until you blow up the tranny. But then just get an adapter and BMW tranny or the new Eco-boost mustang tranny and you're good to go again. Big problem with NC2/3 engine is torque. You can get around that for a while by running a 4 port BCS and then jacking up the boost in the higher rpms to make you hp "number". Torque can remain low saving the baby rods and crank. There is a fellow on here working with that type of setup now using the Jesus of boost controllers (Eboost-2). There's also the option of swapping in a 2.5 or doing a forged version of either configuration. There is some weird **** going on in TX with NC's, dedicated track cars and trannies, so gearbox failures can be solved. Diff issues can be solved by tossing in something from a CTS or CTS-V. Money solves problems. Jay-Z was wrong.

Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.

That Texas and trannies statement up there... lol

jeff
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Swordfish View Post
Couple of us NC guys are making north of 300whp on pump (93) using the Fab 9 EFR 6758 on a stock/ECUTek ECU without much issue. On C20 fuel (unleaded non-oxygenated) I can see making 400whp without an issue until you blow up the tranny. But then just get an adapter and BMW tranny or the new Eco-boost mustang tranny and you're good to go again. Big problem with NC2/3 engine is torque. You can get around that for a while by running a 4 port BCS and then jacking up the boost in the higher rpms to make you hp "number". Torque can remain low saving the baby rods and crank. There is a fellow on here working with that type of setup now using the Jesus of boost controllers (Eboost-2). There's also the option of swapping in a 2.5 or doing a forged version of either configuration.

Also, Bryan offers the 7163 with the kit as well. There are a few things I would change with the Fab 9 kit but the manifold the Glease Manufacturing makes for the kit is spectacular.

jeff
Is the NC crankshaft a known weak point? That would suck, Im a NA/NB guy and sure the rods are weak but we have a pretty stout forged crank that noone breaks.
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
Is the NC crankshaft a known weak point? That would suck, Im a NA/NB guy and sure the rods are weak but we have a pretty stout forged crank that noone breaks.
NC1 crank isn't great but the rods are so weak that they turn to dust before you get anywhere near crank stress. NC2/3 are much better but not as strong as something like a 4G63. I probably shouldn't have said they are weak, They're just not bullet proof like some stock 2.0L cranks have proven to be.

jeff
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Old 07-27-2017, 11:55 AM
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Moto East makes parts for the NC. I see their cars out on Pocono raceway all the time. Duno if it is still available as it says out of stock though? I would give them a poke and see what they have.

Their shop car is making 400+ and scares the crap out of me.

Moto East NC (2006-2015) Turbo Kit
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Old 07-31-2017, 10:37 PM
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This thread contains lots of bad news for me! I am actively shopping for a clean NC(2) 6spd that I plan to turbo and want to get at least 350whp on 92-93 pump gas.

Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.

Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
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Old 08-01-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by run24 View Post
This thread contains lots of bad news for me! I am actively shopping for a clean NC(2) 6spd that I plan to turbo and want to get at least 350whp on 92-93 pump gas.

Is the NC driveline (trans and diff) really too fragile to handle the level of torque that comes along with a 350whp turbo build? I don't mind installing stronger, lower comp forged pistons and a good HG but I am not interested in a non-Mazda trans or diff.

Any more feedback on which off the shelf turbo kit is the one to have for this level of power on an NC? Is the stock ECU + reflash a solid solution or do I need to look at an AEM or similar?
Stock ECU with flash works great. You can make your power goals without issue on a stock NC2/NC3 engine. The transmission will hold up as well at those levels. The problem is torque when it comes to the gearbox. At 350 whp you wont be close to 400 torque at the wheels so nothing to worry about. The gearbox will survive at 400 torque as well but it lifespan is determined by the driver as well. If you are beating the crap out of it on a lot of track days or drag racing with sticky tires then it's not going to last long. If you aren't beating the crap out of it every other weekend then it may not ever break a gearbox. Bryan at Fab9 runs a built 2.5 with the 6758 over 400whp and he beats on it as a shop car. I dont know that he's ever killed a rear diff. Jay's car "Black One" from TDR makes over 400 wheel and Mike from Moto-East is well over 400 wheel. These cars all get driven pretty hard.

At 14 psi I'm somewhere in the 260-285 whp range just based on gorilla math and metered air. My car is a blast at this level. Still on stock 3 inch MAF and not running it in hybrid mode with the 3 bar MAP sensor. Stock ECU with ECUtek RaceROM. I can probably get up to around 16-17psi before I overrun the stock MAF. There are guys running MAP/MAF hybrids and 3.5 in MAF tubes and each owner and tuner have their preferences. There are a lot of choices in how to get to your end goal and it's pretty easy if you can turn a wrench and have some time.

Dont let my previous post about the driveline discourage you. I just wanted to point out where and what would become the weak links at certain levels.

jeff
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