eflove

I'm not sure if you were referring to my car but i'll add what i've learned from my car. Might help someone. I went the custom route on my turbo kit b/c I had a few requirements that nothing on the market met at the time of my build. The most important for me was making it easy to work on. Access to every nut/bolt and being able to remove the motor with the turbo attached has been nice. I'm sure It could make a little more power with a more complicated manifold design but it turned out to be pretty efficient making a little over 400whp at 18psi. Looking at the driveline the 6 speed is a must. With track use I would recommend getting the gears REM'd to bring oil temps down. The gears are pretty stout but 6th gear is not. I stripped the teeth off 6th with limited use on full power. I have limited power in 6th to 250whp and have had no issues since. Over kill but reliable. Swapping the rear diff to a Rx-8 unit works well but you will need to slot or build a PPF. Again REM the gears for oil temps if wanting to stay on track for 30min. A 400HP NC without aero is a handful to drive so count on needing good shocks. Here is a bullet point of what I have found to work.

2.5L (stock)
GTX 3076 .63ar
400HP 380TQ tune to reduce peak TQ in lower rpms to keep from kicking a rod
6 speed trans
Rx-8 diff/axles with the lowest ring and pinion you can
Boost by gear to reduce power in 6th gear
Boost by throttle position to make power delivery driveable
All the radiator and oil color you can fit

Here is the FB link if you'd like more info.
https://www.facebook.com/TXTrackNC/

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

I believe BBR in England makes a turbo kit for the NC that should be able to achieve your goals

Swordfish

Yes. I was speaking of your car as well as another who is rumored to be trying to mate the gearbox from the ecoboost mustang to a boosted 2.5L. I followed your build on Track Junkies like many others and was curious of how well the stock gearbox was holding up. I'm assuming you're using the Haltech to control boost by gear x rpm. Us factory ECU guys are still trying to get a grip on which boost controller works best for limiting torque in the lower rpm range. There has been some success with both the E-Boost 2 and the Profec B Spec 2 using dual port actuators. I'm using a SCG-1 and using the gain function to get a bit of boost creep once peak torque has been achieved at a lower boost level. It's not great but decent enough . Thank you for posting the info about your setup here.

jeff

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

NC1 weak engine is easy to fix with a 2.5 swap, not sure how many of those are available across the pond, but over here I trip over them compared to BPs in the junk yard. Way easier to find them in fords than mazdas even though its a mazda engine.

Tranny theres always the T5 like I've done with the quad4rods bellhousing. Its not great and you have to make your own clutch and trans mount. But as long as you buy a matching flex plate and starter combo and send the flexplate and $800 to quartermaster you'll be fine. You'll have to dig through my build thread on how to do it, I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who knows what teh internetz is that has used this combo in any vehicle. To get the T5 better than the mx5 6 speed for torque you're probably going to want to get one built by astrogear, which puts the price up a bit. But as long as you dont launch in 1st it should still last quite a while at 400ftlbs.

EFlove, did you have valve spring issues on your 2.5 with boost? I was getting float at 4k rpmish as low as 7psi with the stock valve springs and cams and nc2 intake manifold. But it would clear up and then float again at like 7k at any boost between 7 and 14psi.

Its sad that the nc hasnt had much aftermarket thrown at it. The MZR, and especially the 2.5 is a monster motor. The K series that no one's heard of. Put it in perspective, 4pistons just made over 400whp on straight methanol with a no rules K motor. Theres a shop in mass that has been building ranger motors (literally the 2nd worse mzr over the 2.slow) for mini sprints and has been making that much power for like almost a decade on methanol with unported head and stock valve springs (weird circle track rules). And with my janky *** lick my thumb and stick it in the air basemap, half my **** not working, valve floating, oil pump spinning by hopes and dreams because the bolt backed out still made like 280 wheel under an hour on the dyno. I cant wait to get that back together and get a real dyno out of it.