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New - Any prep-work before installing the Greddy kit?

 
Old 10-20-2007, 06:34 PM
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Default New - Any prep-work before installing the Greddy kit?

Hey guys,

I just bought a '91 Miata Crystal white with a few suspension goodies and what not. It had a damaged front driverside fender but I swapped it out with a better one and she looks great. It also came with a brand new Greddy turbo kit, Exedy clutch, and Fidanza lightweight flywheel.

So I was wondering before I install the turbo kit.. I was spent a few hours reading stuff on here, but was just wondering if you guys recommended anything for me to do while I'm installing the kit that doesn't say in the instructions? I read some people prefer to save up for a 2.5" DP and then install the Greddy kit since it's a pain to swap out later? Anything that's a pain in the *** that I should replace now instead of having it on and taking out later?

Thanks,
Allan
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:38 PM
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Yes, Upgrade the studs and nuts
And Have fun!
Also...
Be careful.
You WILL get sucked into boost.
Ask me how I know.
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:41 PM
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The downpipe's not bad compared to the clutch. The exedy/factory replacement clutch is going to suck *****. Get an ACT.
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteNA6 View Post
Anything that's a pain in the *** that I should replace now instead of having it on and taking out later?
Well, the clutch obviously. That is the biggest pain in the ***. And +1 on Ben's suggestion for an ACT Stage 1. After you replace that, drive the car for a while without the turbo in to make sure it's right. While you're in there, replace the engine rear main seal, and both the front and rear seals on the tranny. Cheap insurance. Also, rebuild the clutch slave cylinder while it's off. They fail regularly, and it's easy to do at this point. Buy a rebuild kit at NAPA- they're cheap and good quality.

Take all the nuts and bolts that came with the Greddy kit down to Ace Hardware and buy Class 10.9 replacements for them. Not stainless, Class 10.9. They're strong, hard, and resistant to corrosion. The stock hardware is garbage that will corrode, seize, break, etc.

Go to your FLAPS and buy a jar of copper anti-seize compound. Apply it liberally to ever fastener that you install.

Also, call FM and buy four of these washers to attach the turbo to the manifold. Ignore the instructions and install the turbo on the manifold first, before installing the manifold onto the head. Those bolts are a thousand times easier to install with the manifold out of the car. Also, there is no gasket here. Don't freak out about it.

The BEGi downpipe is a good thing to do now if you don't mind spending the extra money for it.

Buy a set of NGK BKR7E spark plugs.

Go ahead and do all the regular maintenance items that have probably been neglected. Fuel filter, maybe the timing belt, etc.
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Old 10-21-2007, 01:06 AM
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Thanks for all the informative posts guys, especially you Joe. Appreciate it, I'll let you guys know how it goes after I get everything
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:25 PM
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Ok... so as far as the other modifications that I'm thinking about here's what I've come up with:

- BEGi 2.5" / TurboTony 2.5" DP
- 3" catback piping exhaust; Match & Swage
- 18"x12"x3" 2.5" intercooler / Greddy IC pipes aka Stripes
- 89-92 Supra 7MGE NA 305cc injectors 200+whp or
94-97 265cc Miata 1.8 injectors 7-9psi 170-180whp
- Walbro 190 lb/h HP fuel pump
- ACT Extreme clutch for 1.8, stock 1.8 flywheel
- Greddy E-manage blue
- NGK BKR7E spark plugs

Misc:
- Ace hardware Class 10.9 nuts/bolts
- Replace rear main engine seal & front/rear seals on tranny
- Rebuild clutch slave cylinder
- 4x 2-piece vibration-resistant washer 8mm
- Timing belt, water pump have all been changed previously

I don't know if I'll be happy with 170-180whp, I have a feeling I would want 200+whp after, due to the boost bug. If you guy's see anything wrong with the setup, things I should change, opinions are welcome

-Allan
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