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Old 08-17-2006, 03:03 AM   #1
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Angry New manifold time again

Okay so looks like greddy quality shines thru again. I took my setup apart today to reassemble it with some nice copper lock nuts and new studs. Well much to my suprise*sarcasm* the pos greddy manifold was cracked in almost the same place on top as my last one was and it looks as though it is working its way thru on the bottom part too. Now i must be doing something wrong for it to crack within two months of its purchase. I made the relief cuts which i thought would be sufficent but no it still cracked. I think I'm going to give greddy a call and bitch at em and also file a complaint with the bbb. So instead of ordering another modern enginering accomplishment greddy manifold where should i go, i was thinking etd possibly. any suggestions?
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:57 AM   #2
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BEGi.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:49 AM   #3
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As far as a direct replacement ETD is about the only option.
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Old 08-17-2006, 06:54 PM   #4
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the ETD one is kinda expensive. is there any other options?
and does anyone here have any experience with the ETD one?

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Old 08-17-2006, 06:59 PM   #5
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The ETD manifold is your only option when it comes to a replacement manifold for the Greddy,unless enough people tell BEGi to make one.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:10 PM   #6
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What about building a log that sits the turbo in the same spot as the greddy?
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Old 08-18-2006, 02:33 PM   #7
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I shimmed my exhaust hangers with rubber grommets- or you can use 5/16 hose and cut lengths off to fill up the spaces after the rubbermounts. This will keep your exhaust from moving side to side during hard cornering. Seems to have worked so far as I've had no cracks in my Greddy mani for 3 years.
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:17 PM   #8
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hmmm i do alot of hard cornering w/ my miata and usually w/ a lead foot so maybe i should reinforce the exhaust system, oh well i have time before etd gets the new manifolds next week and then waiting for them to ship from canada. I am however getting a good workout every day from biking :-)
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:22 PM   #9
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I'm hoping my flex jointed downpipe helps with that issue.

Hoping...
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Old 08-18-2006, 08:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firedog25
I'm hoping my flex jointed downpipe helps with that issue.

Hoping...
Do you guys think using thermal insulating coating on the outside and inside will help prevent cracking? I'm planning on coating my DP with Black Satin but I wasn't sure if I should coat my manifold as well.
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Old 08-18-2006, 10:10 PM   #11
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Stress is what does it, really. I should know.
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Old 08-18-2006, 11:32 PM   #12
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is there any way to brace the turbo with one of those motor mount shocks thingys?

Last edited by rappadan; 08-18-2006 at 11:33 PM. Reason: i'm a noob
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Old 08-19-2006, 04:23 PM   #13
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The original poster hints about what I have been hinting at now for a while. Does not seem to be much of a reason to make all those manifold cuts to prevent cracking. Does seem logical though. Just no proof after reading all posts on the subject starting with the Big List. They seem to crack with or without the runner cuts. There are many comments about making the cuts because it is something they heard somewhere and only echoing what they heard and not from concrete experience.

After reading some posts and my experience am leaning toward not properly matching the mating surfaces. Not excluding a design or material problem, but need to work with what came in the kit. Can see the pieces that did not mate properly on my pages under Greddy install. That is now 6 years on mine without a crack. If the surfaces to not mate properly that seems to equate to a lot of broken bolts and cracks each time the motor shakes and flexes.

Aside from matching the mating surfaces, seems a ceramic or Jet Coat would help. My kiln is too small to fit the manifold, but there is a used one in this area for $150. Thought about getting it since has a 22" depth. Problem is it weighs about 250 lbs and would require running 220V to my workshop.

For the problem stated, I am cheap so would probably just weld it. Good weld should last at least a year or so and if/when it breaks just weld it again. Notice the other aftermarket manifolds that do not have all those cuts and some do not have any runner cuts.
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Old 08-19-2006, 04:37 PM   #14
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how thick are the cuts you guys make. The cuts on my manifold were done at RacingMazda when I was up there getting the prototype DP made (no flex). The cuts were almost as wide as the bolt holes. Never cracked. It was in good shape when I sold the turbo last november.

My friend used hand tools to make the cuts on his manifold. The were very narrow and his cracked last year. HE had a Flexpipe on his DP
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop VII View Post

For the problem stated, I am cheap so would probably just weld it. Good weld should last at least a year or so and if/when it breaks just weld it again. Notice the other aftermarket manifolds that do not have all those cuts and some do not have any runner cuts.
Black Satin cures in room temp. I was thinking about using this for the manifold.
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trito View Post
Do you guys think using thermal insulating coating on the outside and inside will help prevent cracking? I'm planning on coating my DP with Black Satin but I wasn't sure if I should coat my manifold as well.
I don't know if that stuff really holds up. If it's the same crap Greddy coats it's manifold with then no...
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Old 08-21-2006, 04:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trito View Post
Black Satin cures in room temp. I was thinking about using this for the manifold.
Would be interesting to see how well it works and how long it lasts. Have not have any luck with those self curing or cure from engine heat products.

Do have one that works but requires curing at 750 F for 4 hours. That is beyond the the capabilities of your typical household oven. The manifold is too big to fit in my little 110 V kiln or would have done it several years ago.
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop VII View Post
Would be interesting to see how well it works and how long it lasts. Have not have any luck with those self curing or cure from engine heat products.

Do have one that works but requires curing at 750 F for 4 hours. That is beyond the the capabilities of your typical household oven. The manifold is too big to fit in my little 110 V kiln or would have done it several years ago.

Pop - What are you using for DIY ceramic coating?

I have access to a large kiln, and the DIY kinda guy....
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:42 PM   #19
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Cheese, I was thinking....Didn't your manifold first crack the same time mine did?
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:08 PM   #20
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yes...quantam entanglement?
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