That's basically it in a nutshell. It's been covered a few times on this site. Check out some of the tire threads... Lemme find you a good one.

Then this is a good thing. I want some of those new flow formed wheels on the market, and if performance says so then we can do this. Not now, but next season. This MSPNP2 and WBo2 is going to kill my budget for a while.

Boom.
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...hy-chat-76811/

When you add a little bit more power you will need significantly better compound brake pads. We have pretty enlightening threads on that subject as well.

I'll do some reading. Also got my torsen in properly yesterday. tested a launch on stock 185 all seasons. Left a 5' long "11" in the tarmac. Grip was fantastic, I know it's stock power-wise, but I'm pretty sure you guys are right, and a properly sorted torsen, with 205's will be adequate to handle a mildly boosted miata. So next season I'll drop the width down to 205 on my current 15x7.5's unless I go for some new 15x8's.

So after months of fighting with BEGI finally got all my parts together.

Lessons learned.

Turboing a miata properly is a $5k+ endeavor. No shortcuts, no work arounds, no "i'll upgrade laters" Do it all at once, and do it right.

Don't buy an AEM UEGO.

First baseline tune, didn't work at all, AEM AFR was VASTLY DIFFERENT from what Tunerstudio told me it was. I did something to the target input values vs AFR reading that took me about 4 hours to figure out after my buddy with a stupid awesome vvt turbo couldn't figure out why my AFR's were so fucky.



So on my Rev built MSPNP2 I got a new baseline tune (thanks rev!) on there after all the mods were "done" and it idled fine; died upon even THINKING about applying throttle, but the AFR reading on the Tunerstudio would only go between 12.1 and 13.6 despite the actual AFR's being anywhere from 10.9 to 17.3 (beyond 17.3 I just get 3 dashes.)

I read and read and realized the poor AFR reading was tricking the MS into thinking my AFR was good under all variables (kPa's changing and whatnot) and therefore not adjusting the fuel accordingly!

So I went back into the AFR calibration menu and saw that there was NO WIDEBAND SELECTED! (How in the hell?) so I selected custom WB (as there's NO OPTION IN MSPNP2 FOR THE AEM UEGO WITH THE LSU 4.9 BOSCH SENSOR [the other presets don't work either!]) and I can't figure out what I did last time to make her read right!!!

So I lost idle again. Help?

:hatecat:

I don't know how to add my signature but it has my mods list in it...

I am a radar technician who specializes in micro, miniature electronics repair, I have my AEM UEGO wired 3" beyond the harness that goes directly to the MSPNP2 as everyone said to get the ground as close as possible to the MS's ground. I figured electronically THAT'S AS CLOSE AS I CAN GET. They are semi-stripped, wire wrapped, soldered and heatshrunk over. I really doubt it's my wiring, unless you REALLY insist.

I'll just copy/paste my signature here...

1991 Mazda FeelYata MXcry
BEGI S shanghai; RX8 420cc injectors; NO TPMS; Rev built MSPNP2; Boost gauge; AEM UEGO; cxracing FMIC; greddy knockoff BOV vented to atmosphere (fuck you nature!); AC delete; PS delete; R package steering rack; still not working.... :facepalm:

So, he upgraded to 15 x 9's and sold you his 15 x 7.5's??? :)

The wide tire narrow rim works fine in a strait line, so for drag racing the weight savings make sense, but anything involving cornering you are better off with the wider wheels. I agree that budget constraints may keep you on this setup for now, just keep it in mind as a future upgrade... like your friend who sold you the set you have now :D

You can find the voltage vs A/F value table for your sensor on line, and manually input the upper and lower values into the custom calibration for the wide band... it may not be perfect though. Mine has about a .3 offset from what the gauge on my A/F meter reads with the supplied values inputted into my MS3, so I applied a little Kentucky windage to the values to make the MS3 readings match my A/F gauge.

Good luck,
Keith

No, actually SHE just took 3rd at nationals in her class on another 15x7.5 225 width wheel/tire setup, this time using RS3's. That's an argument for another day though.

The voltage VS AFR readout calibration table AEM and everyone else provides doesn't work. 0v = 10.00 : 4.99v = 19.98.

When I input that it will read 23.46 in tunerstudio ALL DAY, DUMP FUEL into the engine and spew black smoke.

When I tried removing the decimal on the SECOND AFR range so inputting "1998" instead of "19.98" it actually went down to 10.10 but was also CONSTANTLY sitting at 10.10.

Then I tried fucking with the voltage ranges.... It worked the first time I tried this back before I had this better baseline tune, but I can't get it down! It just stays off. Not just off, but entirely frozen in place at an inaccurate value. It's useless to me to try to tune off these values, and the fuel spraying out of my exhaust can't be a good sign.

Anyone have anything?

Redid all of the wiring, checked from the sensor forward. It's all good. Remade solder connections, and retested. Same shit. My current readings are 0v = 5.8AFR 4.98v = 1700 AFR. That's right, 1700 NO DECIMAL.. Adding the decimal makes it read HIGH like 26.7 high, and frozen. I have NO FUCKING CLUE what the issue is. As of now, I can only get it to read between 11.1-13.00 although the ACTUAL AFR on the gauge can shoot between 10.6 and 17.3 then die.

What the fuck is going on here?

I can only work on the car on weekends because I effectively work 16-18 hours a day.

This is supposed to be MSPNP2 not MS pull your hair out, smash car with hammer, buy mazdaspeed miata instead 2.

There are threads about the issue you are having. It does have to do with where you place the decimal, if I remember correctly. I think you may have had it right in an earlier post, When it read 10.0.all the time. I think it's so damn rich that all you get is a 10.0 reading. You said it spits fuel out of the tail pipe. Re check your req.fuel settings. / Injector settings . Tuner studio has a severely steep learning curve.

Noob to this, not to that...
 

I'm using the "hated" lc-1 so I've got nothing for you but lulz. My AEM uego is in a box.

So you're saying the AEM gauge is incorrect? I'm taking the output of the actual AEM gauge as correct and tunerstudio is the problem.

Well, giving up for today. Hopefully brain rev or curly comes through with some sort of suggested course of action.

+1 for getting it figured out. I need my garage back. ;)

Can I buy that MS yet?

I'm going to throw a meter on the UEGO next weekend and see if the analog output is going anywhere, or if it's off, AEM packaged the wrong sensor or any other weird ass thing that only ever happens to me. The wiring is all good, I just didn't bring my fluke today. I will on Saturday next week and see what happens, and maybe bring a spare UEGO in its entirety and see what the fuck is happening. If that goes nowhere and no one has anything I'm just going to sell the whole MS setup and rock the RRFPR, there's no way the drivability can be any worse than yknow... Not moving at all.

Ian is willing to trade for a MTX-L maybe... :)

It's not the ms.

lol

Can you check the harness for a yellow wire? Should be pure yellow, apparently the WB02 out (white wire) needs to be spliced there, NOT on where the old narrow band went.

I hear that even people fleeing Turkey are using LC1 and mtx units.