Finally got around to ordering the FM2 and hydra combo and can't wait.

I have the 99head on my bottom end with forged internals. Anyone have any experience tuning this setup? 9:1 compression, engine is broken in (have to pull the thing to replace my rear main seal and pan gasket (light leak)).

Something I think may become an issue, I know the FM drains to the pan, and I think I placed the hole at the wrong spot, as it's quite close to the A/C bracket. I might have to machine that off a bit to make room hmmm..

Oh, and anyone know where to find a filter relocation kit still?

 

I just did a search through the threads and found some suggestions where others had asked this question. Not to be a dick, but, your turn. (This is not me being mean, just an integral part of noob training. Been there myself.)

 

Nice. That is going to be a ton o fun. Built low end and 99 top. You are set.

There's plenty of relocation kits out there for the oil filter. Generic ones at say Summit or Miata specific from several vendors. Don't know if any of the sponsors here are marketing them or not but you might check them out 1st.

 

turbo 99 swap crew sign in.

 

Yes yes, I know all about the search function. Figured I'd start a more fresh topic, since most of the topics in this forum are a bit.. stale :P

 

Why does a thread being old and inactive matter? The questions have been discussed and answered at length already. Not trying to be rude by saying that, but a lot of people here hate answering the same question over and over and over again.

Anyway, signing in to the turbo '99 crew. And congrats with your purchase. I'm hoping to see what a mildly built bottom end and '99 head does with a GT2871R very soon.

 

I've always thought the filter relocation kits were unnecessary. On NA's with the factory IM brace removed, it's just as easy to remove the filter from the top as the bottom. Guys with thick arms maybe have to scrape by the fuel lines, but there's plenty of room. Underneath is a piece of cake. Spray the crossmember with Simple Green before you start and any oil that drips will just run off into the pan... the rest of the cleanup takes a paper towell or two. I think it clutters up the engine bay and adds additional points of failure. Some guys swear by them for the "ease" of maintenance, but I've always thought filter changes on my Miata were the easiest of any car I've owned. I'm not sure if the '99 intake mani leaves enough room to get at the filter from the top, but you've gotta get the car up on ramps to get a pan underneath anyways, so why not save the $$$ and buy the wife somthing nice instead.

Additionally, there is a section at the bottom of the main forum page for Vendors that Sponsor this forum... did you look a their sites? Several of them sell a couple different kits. indeed.

Also, tuning that "combination" isnt' anything special. The Hydra has a great autotune function. Install the kit, load the base map, and go for a drive with the wategate arm disconnected. Let the thing do it's magic. Once you've tune for WOT like that (should still make 2-3psi on a GT25XX), connect the wastegate arm loosely so it's making about 7-8psi at WOT and autotune some more. Once satisfied, tighten arm, hook up EBC, and tune for 15psi or whatever you want to run. With the onboard wideband and knock-sensor, you should be able to get a 90% solution in a couple hours worth of street tuning. Get yourself an EGT gauge and get a 95% solution.

 

+1 it is just another point of failure. FM has great instructions and given the work you have already done, you won't have any problems with the install. Time permitting, I'll help this spring. Although with the problems I've had with my Hydra install, you may not want it

 

^ Oh really? Please, do clarify. Was it tuning, or just plain sucky to install?

 

My issue isn't with the Hydra, I have been fighting what appears to be a vacuum leak ads part of the install. I had to remove/replace the lower intake because it was modified for the original link piggy. Removing it again is the only thing I haven't done/checked.

WHy did you spring the extra $$$ for a Hydra when a MS would have worked

 

That is a awsome setup, I'd love to have a hydra too, but the ms will work fine for me. I hear you can gain a few ponies with the 16X16 ve and timing table.

Good Luck, the FM install will go easy. One guy local has a built 1.9L pushing 210hp on 8 psi.

You need to get a MBC for winter though. Ms and hydra ebc's have problems keeping constant boost pressures with the temperature changes in the winter.
Get a NXS off ebay for 12-$16 shipped.

 

I really liked the fit of the FM parts, a friend and I did my FM2 and Hydra install in 12 hours, not bustin' our butts. We had planned for the whole weekend, and I arranged alternate transport for Monday, just in case, but the whole thing was done and the car was driving on Saturday night, after about 12 hours under the hood.

Enjoy!

 

Add me to the list of people who don't like relocation kits. They add potential 5 points of failure to a critical system for no real gain. I've seen the generic cast aluminum adapters break in half a couple of times, so keep that in mind if you're shopping for one.

The FM2 kits actually ship with manual boost controllers now due to the difficulty of tuning the Hydra's EBC. So no need to spend extra there. And it won't be any problem at all setting up a Hydra for that engine.

 

Well I have to agree with you about the EBC being hard to set up, mine still doesn't work right through any kind of a temperature or altitude change, but I sure didn't get a mechanical boost controller with my FM2.

 

Nice! Pics after/during install...

 

When did you purchase your kit?

 

June 2007

 

They just made this decision in the last couple of months. I tried for over a year trying to get my EBC working and finally got an MBC. Couldn't be happier and it removed one more source of varability.

 

I've got a '99 head on the '94 block. Ordered the FMII Hydra kit, and made sure FM knew my setup. They packaged exactly what I needed, and made sure I had '99 parts when I needed '99 parts. Had the whole thing installed in a day and a half. (This is my first turbo install) and spent an additional day tuning it. Installation was damn near bolt-on and go. I think the most expensive tool that I had to buy (already having a pretty good mechanics tool set) was a timing light, which is a good thing to have anyways. The biggest complaint that I have with the system is the Hydra EBC never survived long enough for me to use it. I had it installed, but turned off, and it failed before I was comfortable on wastegate PSI. Picked up an el-cheapo MBC and haven't looked back. I may get a nice EBC once I get back home in September.