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Old 08-03-2010, 12:07 PM   #21
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Im running 5 psi but i havent boost til redline yet because of this problem i think the boost creeps up to 10 but ill deal with that problem once i figure out this cooling issue.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Cryswht93N/A View Post
The coolant hose that was removed was a hard metal line that travels underneath the turbo manifold, do you know the name of this piece so i can purchase it? Im Poughkeepsie NY, your right i shouldnt assume that everyone know what the tristate area mean.... its not like when you type it in to google the first thing to come up is "The Tri-State Region is commonly used in the area surrounding New York City to refer to the greater metropolitan area, including satellite cities. Roughly speaking, the New York Tri-State area encompasses the populated areas in the states of New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut" But im changing my profile now. And im guessing its not the most functional reroute for the coolant but he works for toyota so what can you expect lol.
-Greg

I'm going to now tell you to undo all the stupid **** your "friend" did first, before diagnosing any other problems.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:14 PM   #23
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/\This.
Compression test and inspecting the plugs will tell you a LOT about your engines health.

NOT a compression test, a PRESSURE test. Testings the cooling system...
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryswht93N/A View Post
The coolant hose that was removed was a hard metal line that travels underneath the turbo manifold, do you know the name of this piece so i can purchase it?
^^ This is your problem, and this is why you are loosing coolant. You have completely taken the radiator bypass out of the coolant system. Your engine coolant stays cold, your thermostat stays closed. At high RPM, your water pump is trying to push A LOT of fluid through the 2mm hole in the thermostat. Your coolant is pressurizing something extreme. (And definitely unsafe for your head gasket) Look for where your friend capped off the heater line. That is where you are losing water. Drain the oil and make sure it's not milky.

Parts:
E301-15-287 O-Ring (For metal pipe to mixing manifold connection)
BPE8-15-290 Pipe, Bypass (Metal Pipe)
NA75-61-211 Hose No.1, Water (Head to heater core)
NA75-61-212 Hose No.2, Water (Heater core to metal pipe)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryswht93N/A View Post
...but he works for toyota so what can you expect lol...
I'm not sure I've ever seen a Toyota Miata, usually they're Mazdas He doesn't work in throttle pedal design, does he?


Edit: P.S., for posterity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tri-state_area

Last edited by fooger03; 08-03-2010 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:26 PM   #25
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Looks like fooger just won this thread

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NOT a compression test, a PRESSURE test. Testings the cooling system...
you're right, but a compression test wouldn't hurt either.
(just trying to cover up the fail)
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:25 PM   #26
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Fooger thats what it is the pressure broke the radiator cap i ordered the parts from Mazda they will be here thursday! I appreciate the help dudes, i really hope i didn't blow my head gasket i only drove maybe 10 miles while i was testing it.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:56 PM   #27
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How many g's are you boosting?
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:59 PM   #28
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Well done on ordering parts. I still have a concern though, because your radiator cap shouldn't be under any unusual pressure if I'm correct...If your radiator IS indeed under unusually high pressure, then you have something blocking coolant passage between your lower radiator hose and your water pump. I would suspecting your mixing manifold in this situation. How exactly did your Toyota friend go about capping the mixing manifold when he removed the metal heater core return pipe?
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:06 PM   #29
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im boosting 5 psi he capped the the hose coming out of the heater core return at the end of the rubber section.Then we put a cap on the coolant inlet tube
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:08 PM   #30
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After looking at the cooling diagram it is not good im glad i didnt drive it to far.
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
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How many g's are you boosting?
How about how many gs ($$$) do you have in your boost?
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:45 PM   #32
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The kit was 1500 i had the ms that was 550 so alittle over 2gs and a act clutch i got second hand for 200.
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:30 PM   #33
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Cryswht93N/A,

Dude, I can't read your posts. The lack of punctuation is driving me insane. One more thing, when you use I when referring to yourself, it needs to be capitalized.
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:12 PM   #34
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Pressure testing your radiator with a possible head gasket issue is a good way to hydrolock your engine.

Do a leakdown test with the rad cap off and see if you get any bubbles. No need to go crazy with the psi, regulate your feed down to about 20 psi and go from there.

Or...pull the cap off and start the engine. Watch the radiator opening and rev it up. If you get coolant flowing out like a bitch, you've got a bad headgasket.

On another note, you got your kit already?
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:21 PM   #35
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I received the kit a week ago, the only thing missing was the tap I order. Im happy with it, I had the hose replaced today and the dealership said its fine. It runs good, does NOT overheat anymore. I still have to get it tuned better....
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:24 PM   #36
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The Mazda dealer is fixing your turbo Miata? Any comments from them?

C
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