Pictures of my Mazdaspeed Turbo conversion!!!
 

Well guys it began this afternoon. With all my parts thrown out I started putting this MSM turbo shit together on my 99-10th anniversary...

So i'm running the plumbing to the intercooler, but something is different. I'm not cursing and saying fuck fuck fuck as I try to wiggle and squeeze charge pipes in place. The Mazdaspeed Miata charge pipes fit in without a hazzle and bolt right up to pre-threaded welding in bolts already in the chassis. I really like the powder coating as well. There is nothing that comes close to the ease of installing oem performance parts. The manifold fits perfect, the egr pipe threads right up with no bending.

I got most of the intercooler plumbing run so far, but I found I do need a part if anybody can help me.

Pics will be up in just a minute!

Ok so what par tdo you need and congrats!

Progress is good!

It is a big hose that goes between the last charge pipe and the 90 degree throttle body inlet.

Interested to see pics. Did you just buy the turbo setup used and keep the 99 engine or are you doing the complete msm motor swap?

Here is my first pics. Not the boost control valve in the center :)

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What a breeze to install, man I love it! I would rather keep the factory air box, if there is any way I can make it breath better. Any ideas yall?

2nd, there is a big ass hose that goes in between the 90 degree throttle intake and the last charge pipe. If someone has this piece. I need it. Thanks!

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so why didnt you just buy the flyin miata intake from the get go and the begi throttle body inlet piece? unless you got all that shit piping for free, the only decent pipes are the ones that directly connect to the intercooler.

Glad to see you are selling of the shit stock interfooler, though.

sweet :)

Don't make fun of my Denso Interfooler. It's called Shit-on-a-Stick thank you very much. Hot air comes in/Hot air comes out. :fawk:

That begi throttle body inlet is coming. It is nice piece that looks factory. But as far as the intake is concerned. I actually like the box, it'll make for a quiet turbo, but how tough is it really just to take the box off and K&N that moe-foe...

the box is a piece of shit, but that xylophone-looking motherfucker and the enlarging pipe its connected to are also pieces of shit. Im guessing you have the stock IHI unit, and a decent power increase can be seen by replacing all of the piping from the filter all the way back to the compressor inlet. As Im sure you noticed, there are a few retarded bends in there, and the positions of the various fittings arent very intelligent, either.

Now, FM claims with just their intake you get something like 50hp, although that may also include increasing the boost past the factory 8.5PSI.

Another question for you, are you just using the MBC or did you grab some of the (nearly worthless) boost control items from the mazdaspeed?

I also see the stock mazdaspeed bypass valve, its been known to leak - so check that before you curse the world if you see any signs of a vac/boost leak.

The 3-way solenoid likes to misbehave, the factory boost controller and sending unit are also points of failure. (I also wonder if you are using the mazdaspeed ECU, because that thing does a terrible job of keeping the AFR at an acceptable value even if you are stock)

What he said...I would toss the factory box. Any good aftermarket intake should make a 20-30hp difference when combine with a boost increase. I found the AEM CAI to be te cheapest (new). I think I got mine from nopionline.com for something like $150 new. My first bolt on was the AEM intake with a manual boost controller set at 10-11 PSI, baseline dyno before was 154rwhp, after was 184rwhp, so it does make a difference. I've see a few guys make them, but after parts, they didn't really save that much. I had issues with the electronic boost control as well. After I installed my Begi SGDP, I had crazy boost creep when I tried to use the factory electronic controller. When went back to the manual, all was well.

I don't think I'll ever understand the purpose of paying to run an OEM MS setup.

Cheap and easy!!!

$$$

If I could find a cheap one I'd put it on my daily driver in a heartbeat.

Works for me. Kudos then.

That 50hp number comes with a complete intake system, and exhaust. Think it runs at something like 10psi.

I don't think they claim that much, could be wrong though. Most intakes at max PSI before boost cut kicks in at around 10.5 PSI picks up about 30rwhp.

Heck, I found a complete motor, tranny and turbo, mani, dp for $1300 last month. I was very tempted, but wanted to eventually see more than 200whp.

You can and you should of bought it. All you needed from there was a compressor wheel upgrade, a good DP and exhaust, and megasquit. That gets you close to 250rwhp if not more. $1300 for that setup and maybe another $1500 down the road and you would be well over that. I was at 215 on the dyno with SGDP, CAI, and exhaust, still on the factory crappy ass ecu.

With those same mods (SGDP, exhaust, FM intake), mine was at 213rwhp / 205 ft.lb. AFTER dyno correction ... and unlike Mysdnor there are people here who can vouch for my numbers. :)

I looked into it. It's actually 9psi.

True, and I think you will agree that is fairly common.

No, I don't agree with that.

? same bolt ons usually yeild similar numbers, why would my car or yours be different

1. My SGDP and exhaust are not the "same bolt-ons" as yours, they are custom-built Absurdflow: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/stainlessexhaust.htm.
2. I had 305cc injectors, not stock 265.
3. I have dyno results and many witnesses here.

Oh, for the record, I ran 305 for a while and they really made little difference. I have dyno sheets to. I didn't realize that if someone on this message board was not there it never really happened. My bad. But hey, let's not stink up this guys thread.

Okay truth is... Well lets add up my cost on the turbo kit so far and compare... And yes that is a flyin miata manual boost controller. I will be using it.

So what I was thinking about buying was a Bell Series S with Zoom 3 engine management and harness, GT2554r and no intercooler. It's a reliable 160 rwhp Cost now? Only 2400 dollars... Then I want that Begi S intercooler, boom 500 extra bucks plus another 100 for the bypass valve and plumbing.

So that's around 3000 dollars shipped.

My resort. Lets keep the hardware below 1,000 guys.

Mazdaspeed Miata charge pipes, intake, exhaust Manifold, cast iron outlet, shitty intercooler, and all related fasteners and fittings 230 dollars.

Ebayer 28x7x2.5 air to air intercooler, 70 dollars.

Brand new IHI RHF-5 journal bearing oil cooled/water cooled turbo with fittings and drain line. 260 dollars shipped.

My price thus far, 560 dollars.

Okay so say I need to replace the shitty bypass valve, only if it leaks. Fab a Begi 2.5 inch catless downpipe that bolts to a 99-2000 midpipe. (But rumor is a few people testify that the 99-2000 steel downpipe will bolt right up to the turbocharger cast outlet, and judging by the degree and position of the cast outlet on the turbo, this could be correct) And I wanna get the Begi Cold air assembly box.

Okay so that is 650 dollars.

So okay, the bottom line on hardware plus various pieces and shipping. It comes in around 1,200 dollars. Go PC-Pro for 500 or Zoom3 for around 650 with harness. Your looking at 1,850 dollars.

So okay, decent running 160 rwhp Mazdaspeed Miata Turbo Kit with begi intake, 400 cubic inch intercooler, forge bypass valve, 2.5 inch downpipe, and Zoom3 engine management. 1,850 dollars.

Bell Series S, GTT2554r, non-intercooled, no bypass valve, 2.5 inch downpipe, simple plumbing and lines, plus Zoom 3 engine management.

2400 dollars.

What am I going to do with that left over 550 dollars? I got a 2.5 inch Enthuza dual exhaust with 2.25 inch outlets already. I know! I'll buy a 99-05 Enthuza Midpipe with high-flow catalytic converter and resonator.

So for 2,400 dollars. I got a pretty decent MSM setup with a 2.5 inch exhaust system, upgraded air-to-air intercooler, new bypass, Begi Cool air box, and Zoom 3 engine management. Though unlikely, I might hit 195 rwhp?

Heck and when i'm ready, I might just sell the zoom3, pick up a 99-2005 link and run some auxiliary fuel injectors, upgrade the compressor wheel and put out 260 to the rear wheels :)

And if down right, all for roughly the price of a Bell Series 1 Turbo kit, or Flyin Miata Voodoo Turbo Kit....

Although my car will never have that wonderful Garrett Ball Bearing Turbo :(

You're much better off with a Megasquirt.

I'll keep that in consideration Mr. Obama...

I'd probably gp MS too, and you will see 200 hp

ban for not using MS in a budget set-up!

I have one, it's 10.5. Most people that have them can obtain 10-11 before boost cut actually kicks in. For about a $1.50 you can disable the boost cut all togther if you like.

And for the record, I am using a 99-2000 factory ECU. According to many sources, this 99-2000 ecu attached with either Voodoo, PC Pro, or Zoom 3 gives far better drivability than the MSM ECU Shit Block...

I've ran a 96/97 Megasquirt PNP. Pretty nice piece and worked fine, I just couldn't get it tuned to the point of city and stop light driving... I was running 460 cc injectors at 12 psi and my air/fuel ratios stayed around 11.5 and 12.3

So somebody tell me more about this piggy back megasquirt and how it works...

whatever. I have 550's that flowed 590cc, no tps, and my shit drives as good as any OEM computer.

You wire it in, following the directions in the MS FAQ. $350 to control fuel spark, and whatever else and you're produce more testosterone and be more fertile.

Oh I wasn't doubting the capabilities of Megasquirt and I was referring to the Mazdaspeed Miata (MSM) Ecu as the shit block and not the megasquirt. Megasquirt is as good as the whoever owns it and whoever does the programming. Clearly, I just didn't know what the hell I was doing otherwise I could have got it to run flawlessly...

For starters, on an NB, you'd have the MS in parallel - not piggyback. Big difference. Piggyback means it tries to manipulate stock signals. Parallel means the MS controls engine stuff and the stock ECU controls everything else.

I took some new pics today. Just some tidying up the engine bay. Had to cut about inch and half off the upper radiator hose.

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About the trojan brand throttle inlet 90", I mean as long as it doesn't come off or leak, I don't see whats the big problem with this piece. It's made of some thick ass rubber that's for sure!

BTW, sent the MSM front bumper and lip off today. The prep will be finished by next friday, and after 14 days, I should have it mounted. :) It's gonna look hot is Saphirre Blue Mica.

looks good brah!

FYI, I saw a guy on the MSM site selling an FM TB and diverter valve for $100 today.

I love the look of a factory OEM air box, plus its really quiet too! Would replacing the air filter with a K&N help me get that extra 20 horse ;)

Not a lot you can do with it other than remove it.;)

Can build a shrine for it?

You deserve a ban for that statement.

I have an idea! What if I installed a K&N Filter panel and made large cutouts in the box? So it doesn't pull air through that tiny tube?

you are one weirdo fuck...

Nah, just don't wanna spend 350 dollars on a FM or Begi Intake if I can build a unit that is just as efficient. Question is, what really causes the factory intake to be so restrictive? Is it the xylophone piece of shit and/or the awkward bends of the intake pipe leading to the turbo compressor or is that little tube that leads to the box?

And i'm thinking about that megasquirt hybrid, as the tempation to run 230 rwhp is getting to me... :)

See, I know all these idiots around town that are obsessed with this P.O.S. called a 240sx. I don't really see what is so
great about them. But it only gets worse. My buddy owns one and he keeps telling me to run a damn 3.0 catless exhaust
with a coffee can on the back... I just ain't into that shit. Just like atmospheric blowoff valves and damn flowmaster exhaust
on V8's. Yeah you want that stuff because its going to be on the track, fine. But I like Bell Engineering's take on making things powerful, but without losing a sense of civility.

I like to make power without hurting the refinement, and I definitely like it civilized. (I myself don't care for the sound of a loud ass shit, unless its music haha) Which is why I am going with a 2.5 inch downpipe, metallic cat, and resonator, and 2.5 inch dual exhaust.

And recirculating bypass valves is the only way i'll go on that... No need for my car to sound like a cannon everytime I shift.. haha

Cody; here's a link I thought you might enjoy: ;)


www.mazdaspeedy.com

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gr7cLDojmKI/SY.../Photo%204.jpg

Not that I would want to, but if you look at this and compare it to a 99-2000 Naturally aspirated exhaust manifold. You'll see that the 99-2000 downpipe will bolt right up to the cast outlet without any flange modification...

Yes, I definitely want to that you for the pics, as they give me alot of high res detail so i'll now what to expect...

Has anybody ever removed just the sound baffle on the Intake to see what that does for the car?

I have the FM intake off my MSM if you wanna buy one cheap...

Keep in mind that the MSM oil drain will not bolt up to the stock oil pan. You'd need a MSM oil pan for that. I did it the usual way with a hose barb.

Almost anything you do to the box to try and increase flow will increase the noise level, which if I'm reading you right is a concern for you. There is a guy on the MSM site that did some stuff to his factory airbox but, he never dynoed the car so there is no real way of knowing if what he did yielded any results. I don't know of anyone that has altered the factory box and did any test afterwards to gauge results.

I'm curious as to what replacing the paper air filter with a K&N unit will do for the car, but it's probably not going to have much of an effect as the intake is more than likely constricted due to insufficient surface area rather than surface material....

Plus those crazy ass bends and all that, LOL.

I'm like you when it comes to unnecessary noise, however, the HP pickup for the slight noise increase by going to an aftermarket intake was a no brainer for me.

I'm really satisfied how everything goes together. Other than replacing the headlights, there really isn't anything to cumbersome about this project. I can't wait to get my intercooler in tomorrow, as I can start some bracket fabbing and get the intake tract all wrapped up. :)

Yep, I could always try tossing the air box out and attaching a K&N on the end of the Mass Air Flow Meter.

I think want i'm going to do is toss the sound baffle out, and then do so modifications to the box and use a K&N panel filter. As long as this bitch makes 180 rwhp with my 2.5 inch exhaust and 28x7x2.5 intercooler :)

See, if I but one of those cone air filters on this import, then that makes me just like the rest of Florence AL, with their cone air filters, their welded difs and their "Drifting shit" like the drifting dolls they put on their toe-hooks...

...Actually, I would have to sell me car and buy a Nissan 240sx, everybody drives that shit around here. It's like, no other car can be drifted except the Nissan 240sx, lol... I mean, I don't get what is the big deal with the Nissan 240sx...

It'll be fine!

Oh btw, new pics are coming :)

Well guys, I did it, I bought a K&N cone air filter and I think i'm going to shoot myself ;)

But anywayz...

HAHAHAHA, When my plans are complete, my turbocharger of Darkness will Rule the World!

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