Sellcouth

Hey, All.

I just picked up a Kraken top mount kit secondhand with a GT2860RS, a Fab 9 intercooler setup, and a Turbosmart BOF for a screaming deal and just wanted to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I got going. My power goals are around 220-240 to the wheels with a good low end.

Current Setup: (At least everything that I think would be relevant to this post)
95 With a BP4W on MS2 & AEM o2
5 Speed
4.3 Torsen
No name Yellow tops
FM Level 1 Clutch
Stock fuel pump
Square Top Manifold
Catless 2.5in eBay special exaust
Super Miata Coolant Reroute

As of right now, I think the GT2860RS is a bit too much sauce for what I want, and am going to try and trade/sell it for a 2560R. As far as I know, these are totally interchangeable, but please let me know if I'm wrong. Another thing im a little confused on is what size wastegate spring I should be running, will stock from the 2560 be fine or do I need to get one with swappable springs? I do plan on having electronic boost control as well. And lastly, Im am trying to figure out a plan for my water lines since I have deleted my water neck with the Super Miata block-off plate and completely got rid of the loop that goes from the mixing manifold -> throttle body -> oil cooler -> I don't remember where it goes after that. So I don't have the conventional spot to tap into. I assume I would have one side be the hose coming off the mixing manifold but im not sure where It would go from there since I dont remember where that loop terminates.

der_vierte

No name yellows can be problematic, I would change those out to some higher quality injectors 500cc+.
2560R will be enough and spools faster. 7 or 8 psi spring in the gate is std in the 2560r and thats fine.

Waterhoses without the neck I don't know. There should be a water feed on the block, IIRC

Watterson02

If you're in the US I might be interested in swapping my 2560r with you. I was looking more at a 2867R Gen2 or equivalent, but this would keep my transmission a little happier in the long run. Plus, I'm not too sure how knock limited I'd be with pump 93 over 300whp...
my 2560 has been on the car since January 2021. Maybe 20k street miles, I'm not too sure. No shaftplay, compressor wheel looks fine, haven't really got to look at the turbine wheel.

Sellcouth

@Watterson02 PM'd

Gotcha ig Ill pick up some better quality injectors. And one other thing, if a clutch starts slipping is it toast or is it fine and just cant handle the power (assuming its relatively new and not slipping from age/wear).

Joseph Conley

High-quality injectors are incredibly important. It is worth the price. Tons of us run Flowforce.
https://goflowforce.com/products/fue...it-miata-xrnhx

Also, consider upgrading your fuel pump relay, it makes a significant difference. You can DIY it much cheaper.
https://flyinmiata.com/products/trac...el-pump-rewire

Sellcouth

Ok, Yeah I'll probably get my hands on at the very least the OEM yellow tops if not something nicer. Still curious if anyone has any thoughts on how I should do water routing. I was thinking I could take my feed from the nipple coming off the mixing manifold. And my return going to this 1/8npt port on my Supermiatat reroute

Joseph Conley

I would not waste a penny on OEM yellow tops. Injector technology has come a long way. If your penny pinching on injectors, your gonna have a bad experience with a turbo'ing a Miata.

Sellcouth

Lol ok, do you have any data or links to back this up? You are the first person I have run into that has said that Denso Yellow Tops are inadequate. Sure there are higher-quality units on the market, apart from them being only 420cc what significant downsides will I see? I understand that I'm trying to save money but I'm also not trying to buy garbage, otherwise, I would have spent a lot more time on eBay and not ended up with a Kraken manifold and downpipe and Garrett turbo...

Joseph Conley

I'm not going to search the forum for you. It's all here. Do you want injectors from 20 years ago or modern injectors for a few dollars more? Do you have a reputable source of data for yellow top injector dead times? Are you planning on flow matching the unknown sourced yellow tops?
Also, the Kraken kit and Garret turbo are totally fine. Kraken is about as good as it gets without going full DIY/tubular.

der_vierte

OEM yellows idle pretty good at stoich in full seq.
Somewhere I have the dead times for them, as I ran them in the past with success. Up to 220whp they can be a real budget solution.
Fore sure EV14 is the way to go, if money doesn't matter