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Old 05-18-2007, 01:37 AM   #1
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Default second problem with etd manifold

Just wondering if anyone else ran into this problem. the middle bolt on the bottom row that bolt up the turbo manifold to the engine is a tight *** fit. meaning that i can't get a wrench or a socket in there....no way possible. I even have to chop off the end of that stud just so the manifold can be pushed back all the way. anyone else with this problem? or am i the lucky guy. also, what do y'all advise? tighten the rest to torque spec and tighten the middle as much as i can?
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:51 AM   #2
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:52 AM   #3
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I got the exact same problem. I can't fit a wrench in the to tighten the nut on, I can't even get my fingers there to hand tighten it.
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:20 AM   #4
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Remove the stud and replace it with an allen head bolt. This was required on a FM/BEGI manifold as well. The short lived FM3.

You owe me a coke.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:04 AM   #5
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brilliant!! now i need to find a grade 10, m10 x 1.5 allen bolt.........the hunt is on!!
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:17 AM   #6
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grade 12.9...Ace Hardware
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:24 AM   #7
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.......i guess before i storm out of work for a bolt, where did you get yours?

edit: the guy above me beat me to the reply. thanks!!
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:51 PM   #8
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ace hardware doesn't stock allen bolts m10 x 1.25, any other suggestions for local pickup?
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:55 PM   #9
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mine does!



see top left & right...ignore crack...
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrillntBlk92 View Post
ace hardware doesn't stock allen bolts m10 x 1.25, any other suggestions for local pickup?
You must have an industrial nut and bolt supply type of place near by don't you? Check yellow pages under fastners.
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:07 PM   #11
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tried grainger and fasten-all. i'll check for more. i got a response from etd.
"The large tube are like that, there just isn't anything we can do with the size of the flange on the 1.6L. Just reef it down as best you can it shouldn't leak, we have had hundreds like that go out with no problem. The manifold bolts only need about 15 ft/lbs total to seel so that just arm tight. If you have about that much on it, it will be ok. The good news is that it's in the middle of the manifold and the rest of the bolts around it also help hold it all down. If you have any type of pressure on it at all it will be fine. The only other way to do it is to use smaller tubing which would seriously inhibit the flow of the manifold so this small trade off makes a better flowing manifold. Unfortunately Greddy didn't leave us much to work with if you know what I mean."
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:23 PM   #12
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"design for manufacturability" and "design for assembly" are two phrases I hear all the time at work (machine shop) and unfortunetly is all too often not considered. I have a nut like that on my 2.5" dp, I just left it off. don't want that with the manifold though, you'll just loose boost.
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:27 PM   #13
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Get the bolt. I wouldn't take the chance. The loose, in comparison to the others, could cause that manifold to crack.

What was the first problem you had?
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:39 PM   #14
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when i got the manifold it had a hole in the welding so i had to get it patched up, which wasn't too big of a problem. it sucked because it took 6 weeks to get. so its kinda been one thing after another. but hopefully everything else goes smooth.
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Old 05-18-2007, 08:15 PM   #15
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does anyone know the real torque spec for the manifold to block bolts?
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Old 05-18-2007, 08:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrillntBlk92 View Post
does anyone know the real torque spec for the manifold to block bolts?
28-34 ft lbs(really)


Or, you could tighten one until it breaks, then back off a little on the others and replace the broken one:gay:
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:12 PM   #17
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I ground the edges off an open ended 14mm to gain the clearance to install the ETD manifold. that allowed me to fit it.
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:39 AM   #18
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I had a FM3 (and have installed FM2's) and that center nut can be a bear. What I do is tighten the nut with my fingers as much as possible at first. I found a trick that if you carefully fish a boxed in wrench, it will just barely slip over the nut. You can get a little turn from accessing from the top, then a little more from the bottom. Alternate from the top to bottom. Yes, it's a pain but it works.
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:58 AM   #19
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if u were in west coast, autozone has all of that u just have to be pushy about it... employees (i work there weekends) dont like to have to go through the troubles of going through shelves and shelves of bolts//nuts//studs etc... i like to tell the customers it doesnt exist...
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:03 AM   #20
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www.mcmaster.com have lots of 12.9 grade metric fasteners
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