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Old 02-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Because machining Inconel correctly is not cheap. They are expensive, but you are paying for the best of the best that have been proven to work on track. If the cost of the studs seems expensive, you will **** yourself when the rest of the costs of tracking turbo miata add up.
Never stated I thought anything was expensive or over-priced, just wanted justification for $155 spent.

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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Bell is $148 and doesn't include Stage 8 hardware. FM is $99 and doesn't include Resbond.

Serious question: What do you think we should charge for bespoke, rolled-thread Inconel studs manufactured in the United States, the best stainless steel locking hardware on the market, and aerospace-grade threadlocker manufactured by a NASA supplier? Our price was $155 because they were very expensive to prototype and test, and our competitors incurred none of those costs, but what price would prompt you to select our product over those competitors?
And what do you know ^.. There is that justification, straight from the man who built, tested and developed the kit. Exactly what I came to learn. Didn't mean to make it sound like I was undermining you, Savington. I don't know the appropriate cost, for the reasons you stated, which is why I inquired.

Thanks for the prompt reply!
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Old 02-18-2015, 03:12 PM   #22
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Not to derail here, but I was curious as to peoples thoughts on mounting the turbo with through bolts rather than studs.

I ask as my manifold that has yet to be installed was drilled out to accept a through bolt to mount the turbo rather than having a screw in stud.

Anyone think this is a problem? The tolerances are tight so I'm not super worried about the turbo not perfectly lining up with the outlet of the manifold.
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Old 02-18-2015, 03:19 PM   #23
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Non-inco will stretch with track use, a bolt will stretch even more than a stud+nut. I actually completely stretched bolts on a street car in a couple months, so I can't even imagine how fast a track car would stretch them.

But I'll let the pro's chime in
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:46 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
My recurring problems were solved by inferior A286 10mm studs and Inconel nuts? How did that happen? It's a miracle.
I'll get some folding chairs. We will be accepting worshippers on Sunday morning at 8am.
I believe the SS studs from BEGI I'll be using in the back of the turbo, are A286.
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:53 PM   #25
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I wonder if torquing the studs a la Corky Bell would work in place of Resbond?
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:12 PM   #26
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I give up.
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:14 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
I believe the SS studs from BEGI I'll be using in the back of the turbo, are A286.
Apparently the A286 yield strength drops off significantly after 1300*F. I guess since I ditched the turbo blanket and upsized to these I haven't exceeded that. I just remembered incorrectly from a couple or three years ago when I bought them. I cannot recall who here originally shared the link with me. I guess I just have Inconel nuts. Try not to stare at them.
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:47 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
I wonder if torquing the studs a la Corky Bell would work in place of Resbond?
This is the worst post I have read in my life.

lol

Last edited by 18psi; 02-18-2015 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Anyone got some leftover <6 mo old Resbond they can mail USPS?
I'm ordering some soon as SwaintTech ships my exhaust back. Surplus will be bottled and offered for sale here at my cost+shipping. Hopefully soon, they've had it for 3.5 weeks.
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:16 PM   #30
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I went and ordered some from ebay. You can buy mine when I'm done in ~2 weeks!
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:17 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I give up.
I guess that means you've tried it and it didn't work, eh?

The next question, is, with Resbond, is it necessary to torque the studs down?
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Old 02-18-2015, 07:59 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
This is what I use in case anyone is interested: Full-Race T3 & T4 Turbo M10 Stud Hardware Kit - Full-Race.com

no inconell no care. because absolute garbage waste of time and money anything but inconnel.

Last edited by bbundy; 02-18-2015 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:14 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Bell is $148 and doesn't include Stage 8 hardware. FM is $99 and doesn't include Resbond.

Serious question: What do you think we should charge for bespoke, rolled-thread Inconel studs manufactured in the United States, the best stainless steel locking hardware on the market, and aerospace-grade threadlocker manufactured by a NASA supplier? Our price was $155 because they were very expensive to prototype and test, and our competitors incurred none of those costs, but what price would prompt you to select our product over those competitors?
To be fair the first set of Inconel studs I used were from BEGI before you had anything on the market.

I used Nordlocks and Resbond on my first set. Never touched them and they never came loose. They were longer studs than yours and I recessed them into my manifold further and countersinking the start of the threads to provide a longer grip lenght and added set screws to keep them from spinning. when I re built my DIY mild steel manifold after 4 years of use I bought a set from you and used the Stage 8 nuts. It’s been more than a year and I haven’t touched them either. Well freeking worth $155.

I havent switched to inconnell on the downpipe yet and I do have the occasional failure. If my downpipe suport to the transmission comes loose the dounpipe flange studs will last about a half a track day as well but they do pretty good if the downpipe support stays put.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:21 PM   #34
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Can I do any harm by tack welding the Inconel studs onto the manifold? On the non-face side obviously.
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:20 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbundy View Post
countersinking the start of the threads to provide a longer grip lenght
Did you chamfer the entrance of the manifold holes? Did you torque the studs in? What tool did you use?
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Old 02-19-2015, 01:36 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by bbundy View Post
no inconell no care. because absolute garbage waste of time and money anything but inconnel.
You're just jealous of my inconel nuts.

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Old 02-19-2015, 04:35 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
I guess that means you've tried it and it didn't work, eh?

The next question, is, with Resbond, is it necessary to torque the studs down?
I'm not ignoring this question, but I am choosing not to answer it. My recommendation is that you purchase our kit and install it exactly as the instructions say to. If you want to DIY it, that's fine, but I don't think anyone here will expect me to assist you with that particular endeavor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
You're just jealous of my inconel nuts.
I assure you that nobody is jealous of your hardware kit. You got suckered by FR into buying a kit that you assumed to be Inconel at a too-good-to-be-true price. Your studs are nothing special and while they may be adequate for your particular application, they are not a competitor to the kits that actual vendors (FR is not a vendor here, FYI) sell. For the sake of discussion, I'd appreciate it if you would give up on hawking a non-vendor's inferior product on this forum.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:10 PM   #38
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I assure you that nobody is jealous of your hardware kit. You got suckered by FR into buying a kit that you assumed to be Inconel at a too-good-to-be-true price. Your studs are nothing special and while they may be adequate for your particular application, they are not a competitor to the kits that actual vendors (FR is not a vendor here, FYI) sell. For the sake of discussion, I'd appreciate it if you would give up on hawking a non-vendor's inferior product on this forum.
Lols

He is an independent 3rd party offering his review of a product he uses first hand on the track with success on rcomp tires and 250rwhp. This product and its use are directly relevant to this thread. While he did originally think they were inconel that information has since been corrected multiple times. It may not be THE BEST solution but it is another data point.

This is not your vendor page so I see nothing wrong with him recommending another product to other members of the forum regardless of their vendor status. Don't get your panties in a bundle over his obvious innuendo about taking his nuts seriously.
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Race
The nut is silver plated A4-70 grade
....
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