Well IMO all that **** would be much easier with an engine pull.

 

I would leave my engine in, just to spite you gheys would yank the front of my engine off and drop my trans to do the mods mentioned above. OWn3d

 

I would leave the engine in for both front and main seal they are easy enough to service with the engine in the car.

I did a pan swap for a friend once, lifted the engine and dropped the k-member. Less time consuming and easier than pulling the engine. Might be the best way to tap the pan if you wanted to visually inspect after tapping.

 

LOl medic for life is on this board now. Anyone remeber his retarded spam posting on M.net in random threads about his high mileage MSM?

 

I can't believe I read all that mental fencing, and didn't get to see the hole in the pick up tube.

 

Not trying to bring back an old thread here but I had a though. What if you found a magnetic sump plug like those that are in auto trannys? Then if any shavings did make it into the oil pan chances are they would stick to the sump plug.

 

When you find that aluminum magnet let me know, I have been looking for one of those forever.

 

n00b fail

 

lulz.

 

Any particular reason why more people don't support the engine and drop the X-Member to get the sump off? Would seem the logical thing to do.... or is there agro involved I haven't spotted?

 

becouse sealing the pan is so much simpler when u have the motor on a proper stand. I dont know about you but cleaning and resealing the pan with a 400 lbs motor swinging over my face is not my idea of safe. And pulling the motor and tranny takes like 2 hrs if you know what you are doing.

 

Oh yeah I completely agree that any engine work would be easier on a stand, I don't think anyone would question that. I just wanted to ask the question regarding the grey area in between 'engine pull' and 'drill in situ' as it seemed to get glossed over pretty quickly above and in other threads I've read.

The VW ones I've done have all been really straight forward, scrape off any debris, quick wipe, then slap the new one on. Although admittedly the engine would be in it's mounts and fairly stable. I haven't actually used an engine support beam but the two point ones look pretty decent.

 

It sucks. You need to drop the subframe a long way to get the oil pan off, and there's a ton of stuff you have to unbolt to do it. I've done both, and pulling the motor isn't much harder and makes the actual job much simpler.

--Ian

 

Especially when you have to layer the RTV between about 3 things. Good luck getting that to seal when it's dangling. I would never want to try to attempt this with the engine in the car.

 

That's fair enough cheers, I haven't really been under mine yet to have a look see.

Dave

 

I tapped mine in the engineblock. Anything wrong with that?

 

pics

 

OTC_oil_drain.jpg[/QUOTE]

Anyone ever fitted the drain on the right handside of the dipstick hole, in the small space there??

 

Would be hard to fotograph that.... As the engine is in. But I tapped it 3" above the pic on the previous post. Right in the "dot" that is there for some reason.
It is in the middle of the 4 bolt holes. That way it cleares the AC.
I overhauled the engine so I could just drill in the block without leaving debris in the engine. Drilling and tapping in the iron gives the hose connection more strength.

 

Here is a pic of the place I drilled it.