Tighten Greddy Wastegate?
03-08-2007, 11:48 PM
#4
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you are probably tightening the wrong part... the bottom part with the nut should be tight all the way down. you also need to turn the END of the wastegate actuator the area with the hole in it. Tighten that down all the way also
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03-09-2007, 08:50 AM
#6
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backwards:
loosen the nut all the way. (dont spin the rod that goes into the wastegate can.)
pull the pin off.
back the end as far in as possible, so the entire rod is shorter.
you should almost have to pull the rod forward to put it back on.
put the cotter pin back, tighten the nut snug up against the end.
loosen the nut all the way. (dont spin the rod that goes into the wastegate can.)
pull the pin off.
back the end as far in as possible, so the entire rod is shorter.
you should almost have to pull the rod forward to put it back on.
put the cotter pin back, tighten the nut snug up against the end.
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03-09-2007, 10:54 AM
#7
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A: Loosen the nut (1) while holding the rod (0) with pliers to prevent it from turning.
B: Remove the locking clip from (2) and detatch (2) from the pin.
C: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, turn (2) clockwise onto it, to effectively shorten the assembly.
D: Re-attach (2) onto the pin, and re-install the clip.
E: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, re-tighten the nut (1).
It's critical that the rod is not allowed to rotate or you risk tearing the diaphram inside the can.
You want to get the assembly to the point where there is no play in it, and it takes just a bit of stretching to get (2) back onto the pin. One-half turn past touchdown, essentially. Tightening beyond this point will increase boost, which is better done by way of a boost controller.
If you have a handheld vacuum pump, attaching its output to the WG can nipple will make re-installing (2) onto the pin a bit easier, as you can pressurize the can to release tension from the rod.
B: Remove the locking clip from (2) and detatch (2) from the pin.
C: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, turn (2) clockwise onto it, to effectively shorten the assembly.
D: Re-attach (2) onto the pin, and re-install the clip.
E: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, re-tighten the nut (1).
It's critical that the rod is not allowed to rotate or you risk tearing the diaphram inside the can.
You want to get the assembly to the point where there is no play in it, and it takes just a bit of stretching to get (2) back onto the pin. One-half turn past touchdown, essentially. Tightening beyond this point will increase boost, which is better done by way of a boost controller.
If you have a handheld vacuum pump, attaching its output to the WG can nipple will make re-installing (2) onto the pin a bit easier, as you can pressurize the can to release tension from the rod.
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03-09-2007, 11:55 AM
#8
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couldnt have said it better myself guys. This was soo frustrating when I did it the first time. Everyone said tighten it and I was tightening it the wrong way. So ya braineak is right, you need to have it soo tight where you need to pull it a little out for it to go into the designated place. Car will easily boost 9-10 psi with it tightened down.
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03-09-2007, 12:14 PM
#9
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When I check the tension, the rod was holding firmly on the pin. I need to put the rod away from the WG to get some slack. Is that Ideal?
I went on the dyno today, DYNO PACK. My Boost gauge had 0.3 bar, but when my car was hook on the dyno, it was recorded with only 0.1-0.2 bar. That's Less than 3 psi!
Making only 113 rwhp, running super rich... AFR 10-11 richer as it goes up in RPM.
I went on the dyno today, DYNO PACK. My Boost gauge had 0.3 bar, but when my car was hook on the dyno, it was recorded with only 0.1-0.2 bar. That's Less than 3 psi!
Making only 113 rwhp, running super rich... AFR 10-11 richer as it goes up in RPM.
Last edited by Mimime; 03-09-2007 at 12:56 PM.
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03-09-2007, 01:15 PM
#11
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With slack, the wastegate flapper is partially open all the time. This means you're loosing bost, and perhaps more importantly you've got hot exhaust gas passing through the wastegate constantly. That's what burns up exhaust valves, and I imagine it'd have a similar effect on a wastegate.
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03-09-2007, 03:47 PM
#15
When I was running 11 psi, I had to install a helper spring to keep the wastegate shut. Wasn't a complete fix, but it made a huge difference.
Pics here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/590477/2
Pics here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/590477/2
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03-09-2007, 04:26 PM
#18
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maybe, since it's run off a map sensor it can regulate it better. the problem is the wastegate spring is weak, so it will boost high, then gradually drop from 16psi to like 9psi. the helper spring helps maintain a flat 16psi to redline, or very close to.
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03-09-2007, 07:32 PM
#19
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Why is that??? my greddy set boost to 15 psi and drops back to 12.(stock dp,fm manual boost controller)
Do we need a larger wastegate can?? btw without boostcontroller it's @ a standart 6psi... Never messed with tightning the wastegate...
Do we need a larger wastegate can?? btw without boostcontroller it's @ a standart 6psi... Never messed with tightning the wastegate...
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