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Old 03-08-2007, 11:57 PM   #1
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Default Tighten Greddy Wastegate?

Hay guys,

when you tighten up your factory Greddy wastegate, how many turns were you able to tight up?

Cheers,
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:17 AM   #2
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till it bottoms
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:28 AM   #3
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I went to check if there is any slack from the pin and rod, it was holding tightly without slacks. Should I still be tightening it up alittle more than?
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:48 AM   #4
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you are probably tightening the wrong part... the bottom part with the nut should be tight all the way down. you also need to turn the END of the wastegate actuator the area with the hole in it. Tighten that down all the way also
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:57 AM   #5
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I hope this photo would make it clear!

krayzrac3r: is this the part we are talking about?
- I have to loosen the part(2) in order to tighten up part (1).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00049(s).JPG (23.0 KB, 111 views)
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:50 AM   #6
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backwards:

loosen the nut all the way. (dont spin the rod that goes into the wastegate can.)

pull the pin off.

back the end as far in as possible, so the entire rod is shorter.

you should almost have to pull the rod forward to put it back on.

put the cotter pin back, tighten the nut snug up against the end.
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimime View Post
- I have to loosen the part(2) in order to tighten up part (1).
A: Loosen the nut (1) while holding the rod (0) with pliers to prevent it from turning.

B: Remove the locking clip from (2) and detatch (2) from the pin.

C: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, turn (2) clockwise onto it, to effectively shorten the assembly.

D: Re-attach (2) onto the pin, and re-install the clip.

E: While holding the rod (0) with pliers, re-tighten the nut (1).

It's critical that the rod is not allowed to rotate or you risk tearing the diaphram inside the can.

You want to get the assembly to the point where there is no play in it, and it takes just a bit of stretching to get (2) back onto the pin. One-half turn past touchdown, essentially. Tightening beyond this point will increase boost, which is better done by way of a boost controller.

If you have a handheld vacuum pump, attaching its output to the WG can nipple will make re-installing (2) onto the pin a bit easier, as you can pressurize the can to release tension from the rod.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:55 PM   #8
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couldnt have said it better myself guys. This was soo frustrating when I did it the first time. Everyone said tighten it and I was tightening it the wrong way. So ya braineak is right, you need to have it soo tight where you need to pull it a little out for it to go into the designated place. Car will easily boost 9-10 psi with it tightened down.
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:14 PM   #9
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When I check the tension, the rod was holding firmly on the pin. I need to put the rod away from the WG to get some slack. Is that Ideal?

I went on the dyno today, DYNO PACK. My Boost gauge had 0.3 bar, but when my car was hook on the dyno, it was recorded with only 0.1-0.2 bar. That's Less than 3 psi!

Making only 113 rwhp, running super rich... AFR 10-11 richer as it goes up in RPM.

Last edited by Mimime; 03-09-2007 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 03-09-2007, 01:19 PM   #10
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There are the DYNO results:

Last edited by Mimime; 08-31-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimime View Post
When I check the tension, the rod was holding firmly on the pin. I need to put the rod away from the WG to get some slack. Is that Ideal?
You don't want any slack on the rod. Ideally, it's just on the tight side of making firm contact.

With slack, the wastegate flapper is partially open all the time. This means you're loosing bost, and perhaps more importantly you've got hot exhaust gas passing through the wastegate constantly. That's what burns up exhaust valves, and I imagine it'd have a similar effect on a wastegate.
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:36 PM   #12
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Anyone recommend a good replacement for the Greddy one ? Only need 8 - 10 psi....yup, that's all !
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:43 PM   #13
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Easiest thing to do it give it some preload with the amount of tightness, and then use a Manual boost controller to raise it from there.
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Old 03-09-2007, 03:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergus View Post
Only need 8 - 10 psi....yup, that's all !
Famous last words.
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Old 03-09-2007, 04:47 PM   #15
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When I was running 11 psi, I had to install a helper spring to keep the wastegate shut. Wasn't a complete fix, but it made a huge difference.

Pics here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/590477/2
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:12 PM   #16
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helper spring is a must for a greddy kit trying to maintain a steady pressure above 7psi to redline.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:16 PM   #17
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would an EBC controller running closed loop get rid of the droop?

That was my plan....
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:26 PM   #18
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maybe, since it's run off a map sensor it can regulate it better. the problem is the wastegate spring is weak, so it will boost high, then gradually drop from 16psi to like 9psi. the helper spring helps maintain a flat 16psi to redline, or very close to.
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Old 03-09-2007, 08:32 PM   #19
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Why is that??? my greddy set boost to 15 psi and drops back to 12.(stock dp,fm manual boost controller)
Do we need a larger wastegate can?? btw without boostcontroller it's @ a standart 6psi... Never messed with tightning the wastegate...
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:40 PM   #20
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the can is just weak, throw a helper spring on it and it should hold 15psi better.
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