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Track crew- Studs/nuts is the mani the weakest link now?

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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 04:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by hustler
just ordered the Resbond thread locker. I talked to the guy on the phone and he said they use it in racecars with cast iron, horizantally mounted turbos and its worked without failure.
034 is local to me, ill put this **** on my studs before my event on the 20th matched with stage 8s.

Will report back.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by juxt3r
I ran across something while flipping through an old Summit catalog the other day. Not sure if they're available in the right size for us, but it's at least an interesting concept:

Available here and here.

Tech linky...

The story on these studs is that, once you've got the flange over the studs, you tighten the nuts...and then tighten a little set screw that's inside the stud end. This widens the diameter of the stud, making the nuts unable to loosen.
Given the issue at hand, I'd then have to wonder how secure the little set screws would be. However, it's another option to consider.
I like that idea a lot, but they don't make them in 10x.125 and there is no way you're going to get a box wrench over the bolt head in any turbo housing. The could have done something more simple but they chose to make it pretty instead.



Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
034 is local to me, ill put this **** on my studs before my event on the 20th matched with stage 8s.

Will report back.
I'm trying it on the stud and the nut so I can see if it actually works. Then, I'm trying safety wire. Then, I'm going v-bands.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
10x.125
10x1.5?


Originally Posted by hustler
I'm trying it on the stud and the nut so I can see if it actually works. Then, I'm trying safety wire. Then, I'm going v-bands.
I think ill put it in the stud, let it all heat cycle a few times, followed by putting it on the nut WITH the stage 8 locker thingy. Ill let it heat cycle without the locker thing.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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I'm going with thread locker on both sides and very little torque on the nut. Hopefully that will let the cast iron **** expand and not break hardware.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Are you breaking ****? I am yet to break anything from actual track abuse. My only problem is loosening hardware. Think that goo you posted will keep it from loosing? That matched with the stage 8s should do it.. Lets hope.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
Are you breaking ****? I am yet to break anything from actual track abuse. My only problem is loosening hardware. Think that goo you posted will keep it from loosing? That matched with the stage 8s should do it.. Lets hope.
I'm skeptical by nature or everything at this point, but it would be illogical to try considering I have more power than I know what to do with at this point. I've only done one track event and I've broken nothing. I still need to hook up the brake ducts and work on oil cooler ducting. I want to take my car to Boost Logic for sheetmetal work on the heat exchangers and be done with this **** and just drive it.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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I hope someone finds a cheap way to do this too. My studs were backing out too with locking copper nuts. Pain in the ***.

That crazy threadlocker sounds promising though. Is there a preferred stud to use with the threadlocker?
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Chapman

I hope someone finds a cheap way to do this too. My studs were backing out too with locking copper nuts. Pain in the ***.

That crazy threadlocker sounds promising though. Is there a preferred stud to use with the threadlocker?

The strongest ones you can find, i posted the strongest ones i could find on the original post in THIS thread. If you find something stronger post it here.

40mm is as long as a t25 will fit with the begi cast mani.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Nick, I'll go halves on a bottle of resbond with you.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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I don't know that the strongest is wise...we don't want a brittle stud, we want one to expand and contract. Then again, I'm talking out of my *** and going to try it with the **** I ordered from BEGi today. I'm replacing everything and putting Resbond on it. If this works, I'm going to **** my pants and run.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bryanlow
Nick, I'll go halves on a bottle of resbond with you.
Sounds good. Think you will be around 034 area?

For anyone looking for the RESBOND it can be found here:
http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=609

Im hoping to have my motor going in this weekend. Let me know if you will be able to swing by there otherwise ill order it tomorrow. (I wont be able to make it over there i have a busy week)
Originally Posted by hustler
I don't know that the strongest is wise...we don't want a brittle stud, we want one to expand and contract. Then again, I'm talking out of my *** and going to try it with the **** I ordered from BEGi today. I'm replacing everything and putting Resbond on it. If this works, I'm going to **** my pants and run.
My engineer friend told me stronger would be better.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:18 AM
  #52  
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Locking Tab, M10 or 3/8", Turbo Nut - 034 MOTORSPORT

Saw this...kind of interesting. Similar to the other one posted earlier in this thread. Would probably work great with bolts and an easy diy.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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lol

edit: 10mm

Last edited by Savington; Jun 9, 2009 at 02:59 AM.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:07 AM
  #54  
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is that 10 or 8mm sav?
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:22 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
Sounds good. Think you will be around 034 area?

For anyone looking for the RESBOND it can be found here:
Extreme Temp Thread Locker, Turbo Rated - 034 MOTORSPORT

Im hoping to have my motor going in this weekend. Let me know if you will be able to swing by there otherwise ill order it tomorrow. (I wont be able to make it over there i have a busy week)


My engineer friend told me stronger would be better.
Yeah, I'll pick it up.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:40 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by hustler
... and just drive it.
Oh no, you'll never be done. You'll want your bushings replaced, your final drive changed, an engine brace, a wing, splitters, the works.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
Oh no, you'll never be done. You'll want your bushings replaced, your final drive changed, an engine brace, a wing, splitters, the works.
Its a street car.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Its a street car.
Another thing that will change. That's how I started too.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
Another thing that will change. That's how I started too.
Don't derail the thread.

I love driving it on the street too much to gut it and only drive it once a month or less. I really like taking a street car to the track, then driving it home...I also really like taking it with me on business travel so I'm not trapped in a Hyundai for 6-months at a time with racetracks close by. I have another miata that will be a racecar before its done with lots of aero.
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