When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Interested in the hotside plumbing - will it be possible to buy hotside and coldside components separately?
Any reason for aluminium pipes vs Silicone Hoses like FM offers?
The additional flexibility of silicone is nice - though I needed to use an additional worm clamp on one bend section of mine to preserve the radius of that section.
Will you be allowing users to choose between a 2.5" or 2.5->2.75" throttle body elbow?
(I assume that you'll use a 90* silicone elbow to the TB since this requires less room than a 90* pipe coupled to the TB via a straight hose - or are you avoiding the 90* silicone hose because they can split?)
"The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler to the Skunk2 TB:
FYI: The AIT sensor was actually installed in the intercooler's coldside tank, not the coldside plumbing.
I shortened the 2.75" side of the elbow to ensure that the coldside hose would have plenty of clearance everywhere..
I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it:
Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly.
So while I am not Savington@TSE, I am also working on IC setups for my mkturbo setup. One of the big reasons I am going with aluminum pipes and lots of couplers is due to the vast differences between miata's and the possible mods. I was working on single piece welded pipes for each side. The problem I saw was when I would move them from one car with stock radiator/fans/swaybar, to one with upgraded bits and having fitment issues. By using more couplers, I am able to build in room to fit around differences in the setups.
Also I am betting the initial cost for getting custom silicone pipes is rather high. FM can easily say yes I can buy 100 of each piece they need up front, TSE probably not so much.
So while I am not Savington@TSE, I am also working on IC setups for my mkturbo setup. One of the big reasons I am going with aluminum pipes and lots of couplers is due to the vast differences between miata's and the possible mods. I was working on single piece welded pipes for each side. The problem I saw was when I would move them from one car with stock radiator/fans/swaybar, to one with upgraded bits and having fitment issues. By using more couplers, I am able to build in room to fit around differences in the setups.
:.
You've mentioned a point that I SHOULD have made in my original query regarding solid pipes, there's little room for error regarding fitment so they may not accommodate everyone depending on their modz.
eg. I have an oil cooler mounted behind the coldside foglight which meant I had to shorten the FM silicone hose at the intercooler end to ensure that it had plenty of clearance from the oil fittings and lines.
I don't have any additional modz on the hotside that should cause restrictions to TSE's hotside solid pipe so SHOULD be able to use it.
I've deleted the power steering and because Aussie cars are RHD, I have more clearance than LHD cars with power steering so the TSE hotside plumbing's routing could be simplified.
I envisage that I could use most of the solid pipe from the intercooler back to the turbo but could shorten the turbo end and use a specific-to-my-needs silicone coupler for a more direct route. This would mean I'd only need 2 silicone couplers and the modified hotside solid pipe vs. the multiple hoses, solid pipes and accomapanying hose clamps I have now.
This is the last piece of the TSE turbo install puzzle that I have been trying to figure out. Up to now I have gone the easy route and purchased all items from TSE, but rather than wait for Andrew's intercooler, I thought I would try sourcing the parts myself. I purchased a Mishimoto MMINT-UZ IC (20.5"x6.5"x2.5" core) but it was too big (long) - it interfered with the AC dryer canister thing.
I'm curious which IC fits in an AC car? It looks like I need an IC with a core width < 17"...
This is the last piece of the TSE turbo install puzzle that I have been trying to figure out. Up to now I have gone the easy route and purchased all items from TSE, but rather than wait for Andrew's intercooler, I thought I would try sourcing the parts myself. I purchased a Mishimoto MMINT-UZ IC (20.5"x6.5"x2.5" core) but it was too big (long) - it interfered with the AC dryer canister thing.
I'm curious which IC fits in an AC car? It looks like I need an IC with a core width < 17"...
So while I am not Savington@TSE, I am also working on IC setups for my mkturbo setup. One of the big reasons I am going with aluminum pipes and lots of couplers is due to the vast differences between miata's and the possible mods. I was working on single piece welded pipes for each side. The problem I saw was when I would move them from one car with stock radiator/fans/swaybar, to one with upgraded bits and having fitment issues. By using more couplers, I am able to build in room to fit around differences in the setups.
Also I am betting the initial cost for getting custom silicone pipes is rather high. FM can easily say yes I can buy 100 of each piece they need up front, TSE probably not so much.
I made up one piece pipes for my mate....They looked so nice!
Once we got them in I was immediately concerned about engine movement cracking a pipe....So we cut them in half and added central couplers.
I don't know if we were being overly concerned, but I thought it worthy of consideration.
Coming from a world of 150PSI boost every coupler is a potential failure point....especially the IC joints.
Every coupler eliminated is a step in the right direction...so long as the pipe does not crack under the stress that is!
Any thoughts here?
Hey Sav, I dug through my stuff and I found the fourth stage 8 teardrop fastener but might be missing the retaining C-clip. Does one have to buy a whole kit to replace missing hardware? Or if I grind this fastener down too far to sit on the nut would I be able to get a replacement?
Does anyone have hood clearance issues with this kit using a EFR 6758 on a NA chassis VVT swap? The top of the waste gate actuator is hitting the driver's side of the hood and I have to press down and bow the hood so the latch locks. It seems to be hitting the hood structural supports or whatever the metal humps on the underside of the hood are called. I have already clocked the turbo as shown in the TSE install PDF. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Does anyone have hood clearance issues with this kit using a EFR 6758 on a NA chassis VVT swap? The top of the waste gate actuator is hitting the driver's side of the hood and I have to press down and bow the hood so the latch locks. It seems to be hitting the hood structural supports or whatever the metal humps on the underside of the hood are called. I have already clocked the turbo as shown in the TSE install PDF. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David
Originally Posted by 18psi
@Colipto had/has exactly the same issue as you. Had to cut his hood
Not sure how much it lowers the profile vs. the oem bracket but;
Yes, the actuator rubs the hood on the NA. You can notch the brace for clearance, it clears the outer skin just fine. There is an alternate actuator and bracket setup that will almost certainly clear the hood, but I haven't personally tested it. If you want to jump ahead of me and try it out, the p/n is 59007119007 (bracket) and 59001107255 (low) / 59001107262 (med) / 59001107261 (hi). I am 99% sure it will clear with no problem based on the ones I've played with at SEMA and the curvature/shape of the hood. I have a set on the way right now to test.
e: Sniped, links above. If they work we'll add them to the final NA kit.
I was thinking I might have to cut the hood. I have a spare hood I can test it on. Do you know know if onky the under side needing some trimming or if he actually had to cut straight through the entire hood.
Bahurd, nice find l. I'll look into those. Kinda don't want to spend more money since I just bought these. Going to try cutting first. However, if you do try that actuator and bracket, please report your findings.
Edit:. Thanks for the reply Andrew. I'm going to cut my spare hood first to get by for now and if the bracket/actuators linked clear fine, then I will buy them and swap back my original hood.
Just the underbracing has to be trimmed, not the outer skin. Coincidentally, the actuator rubs right where the Singular vents go, so if you were considering running those, there's no need for additional trimming. On Rover's hood, I had to unbend one of the left side vanes, but that was it.
Yes, the actuator rubs the hood on the NA. You can notch the brace for clearance, it clears the outer skin just fine. There is an alternate actuator and bracket setup that will almost certainly clear the hood, but I haven't personally tested it. If you want to jump ahead of me and try it out, the p/n is 59007119007 (bracket) and 59001107255 (low) / 59001107262 (med) / 59001107261 (hi). I am 99% sure it will clear with no problem based on the ones I've played with at SEMA and the curvature/shape of the hood. I have a set on the way right now to test.
e: Sniped, links above. If they work we'll add them to the final NA kit.
Seems the bracket and actuator [medium] is on backorder with an "estimated" delivery of mid/late November 2017. Guess you have the only one coming to you Andrew.
I was thinking I might have to cut the hood. I have a spare hood I can test it on. Do you know know if onky the under side needing some trimming or if he actually had to cut straight through the entire hood.
Bahurd, nice find l. I'll look into those. Kinda don't want to spend more money since I just bought these. Going to try cutting first. However, if you do try that actuator and bracket, please report your findings.
Edit:. Thanks for the reply Andrew. I'm going to cut my spare hood first to get by for now and if the bracket/actuators linked clear fine, then I will buy them and swap back my original hood.
My hood reinforcement when I was out there to clock the turbo. I can take a pic to give you an idea if needed.
NB report, FWIW my hood closes. I have two, one with vents and one without. I haven't put the vented hood on yet, but the stock hood closes. It may make contact under engine movement but no obvious problems to report so far. I'll put the vented hood on for this weekend's track activities and report back.
I am 100% sold on the current kit. However, any update on when the kit will be available with the intercooler piping and heat shielding? My new motor build will be finished in February. Sent an email several days ago but have not received an email yet.
04-13-2017, 02:36 PM
0
