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IIRC they purchased a foundry to solve that issue (poor casting quality). All the recent housings are their new shell-mold housing which has exceptionally good finish, better than the investment housings IMO. Such is their commitment to QC.
That's a seriously good move on their part. I've seen and handled the newer housings and while not as nice as the first gen ones, they are still much nicer than mine. I know I've got one of the housings that they pushed out to "fill the gap" during the shortage after initial launch, but its just SOOOOO disappointing to see all the glorious investment cast stuff in the literature and on everyone else's cars, and then I end up with something that looks like I made it as a sand casting project in a highschool shop class. I'm so glad they stepped up and made an effort to fix the casting process.
Originally Posted by Lokiel
I've got one of the original EFR6258s too EO2K and it's pretty rough, there's no way that Stage8 fasteners will fit unless the exhaust housing casting is filed down to provide flat surfaces for the Stage8 fasteners.
Mine isn't the clamping surface for the fastener, its the area of the housing above where the nut and stud need clearance to actually install. I had so little room it was actually unusable without modification. That area is where two halves of the casting come together and there was a huge seam that protruded into the space that was supposed to be occupied by the stud and nut. There was no way to fit anything in that space other than maybe a hardware store cheese grade thin jamb nut. It took me several evenings of grinding with, of all things, a dremel and some surprisingly expensive tungsten cutters. Pretty pictures and reading here: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...8/#post1170740 My favorite part is the void I uncovered in the casting
I haven't seen one that bad in a while. Our standard EFR 8mm stud package would fit in Gordon's housing pre-modification, though. I actually got the drawing specs for that area from BW during design on our studs to make sure of that. It's not an enjoyable installation, but on the plus side, the nut will never come off accidentally
I forgot about that. You're a saint, Gordon. I'd have made a large stink about that one.
When I ended up clocking it for him I basically said: "if a housing like this was shipped to me, I'd put it back in the box, go #2 on it, and send it right back"
I know of several Aussie companies who've had the same QC issues with components made in China.
It seems to be part of the Chinese mindset, to cut costs/corners wherever possible and the only way to stop is is to have their own QC guys watching every step of the process.
Until they change this mindset, China will never be a major car exporter because nobody will trust them not to fall apart or fail (Great Wall 4WDs in Australia have a reputation of stopping dead when driving across creeks, not enough waterproofing of electrical components).
Interestingly, despite QC issues in China, most prefer manufacturing in China than India (apparently the Chinese are more trustworthy - read into that what you will).
FYI: India would seem a more natural choice for Australian manufacturers since manufacturing in India is approximately the same cost-wise as Chine, we have close ties to India, we're part of the British Commonwealth, both speak English and are both Cricket "powerhouses" (Cricket is the one unifying "religion" in India)..
The issue with India is infrastructure. Factories have dirt floors where they have concrete in china. They dont have consistent power from the grid so they have to run on generator power a lot. If you get a supplier from there like IndoMIM that have their infrastructure **** together they're just like working with a supplier from USA or Europe.
The issue with India is infrastructure. Factories have dirt floors where they have concrete in china. They dont have consistent power from the grid so they have to run on generator power a lot. If you get a supplier from there like IndoMIM that have their infrastructure **** together they're just like working with a supplier from USA or Europe.
- they're also more likely to make their own copies side-by-side with yours in the same factory and sell them much cheaper under their own brand (not denying that it can happen in China too but many Aussie companies companies prefer outsourcing to China because of it, the Chinese are happy enough with their cut and maintaining the manufacturing relationship).
Hey Sav, is there any solution you might have in mind to the single stud that can't accept the stg8 hardware? I know it's a tight fit so we might be boned but figured I'd ask. I just pulled my car from storage and upon inspection noticed that the nut backed all the way out but the housing stopped it (as expected). No issues other than that to be honest.
Hey Sav, is there any solution you might have in mind to the single stud that can't accept the stg8 hardware? I know it's a tight fit so we might be boned but figured I'd ask. I just pulled my car from storage and upon inspection noticed that the nut backed all the way out but the housing stopped it (as expected). No issues other than that to be honest.
Current method here is to use Resbond on both the studs and nuts, plus the Stage 8 fasteners on the 3 nuts that will accept it. That should keep everything in place.
On some housings it might be doable. You don't actually need a complete circle of points - as long as you have 7 points the tab will stay in place. I grind every tab I install now - it makes the install take much longer but the end result is far more reliable.
Did this last week. I slide the clip over at the orientation I want, mark the interference point with a Sharpie, and then use a flapwheel to skim the tab down. Takes 2-3 marks per tab, maybe 5 minutes on each one. Much cleaner install.
Can you grind one of the stage 8 tabs down? I did that on my old turbo. Ground it so it would just slip over the nut
On my early EFR6258, doing this on a couple of the Stage8 tabs would have left the side too thin, between the stud hole and tab's edge, so would have "collapsed", which is why I needed the Nissan fasteners.
I've ordered a new exhaust housing to "fix" this issue since I'd prefer to use the track-proven "inconel studs + Stage8 fasteners + Resbond solution".
On my early EFR6258, doing this on a couple of the Stage8 tabs would have left the side too thin, between the stud hole and tab's edge, so would have "collapsed"
No such thing, you can grind all the way through so the tab no longer fully circles the nut and the tab will still do its job. As long as there are 7-8 points out of the 12 and you have the circlip installed, the tab isn't going anywhere.
No such thing, you can grind all the way through so the tab no longer fully circles the nut and the tab will still do its job. As long as there are 7-8 points out of the 12 and you have the circlip installed, the tab isn't going anywhere.
The guys who installed my turbo also assumed that the fastener would be compromised - seemed a reasonable assumption to me too.
Wish I knew this BEFORE ordering the new exhaust housing - it really does pay to ask these questions explicitly, hopefully others will read this and know better in future.
Sav, I don't remember seeing this answered but will your "complete solution" include intercooler setups for those of us who want to keep AC & PS? I did see you developing your intercooler setup for Acamus to keep both but were having cooling issues with keeping the stock condenser. Let me know your thoughts.
IC setup currently in development will accomodate AC/PS, yes. Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.
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Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.
Interested in the hotside plumbing - will it be possible to buy hotside and coldside components separately?
Any reason for aluminium pipes vs Silicone Hoses like FM offers?
The additional flexibility of silicone is nice - though I needed to use an additional worm clamp on one bend section of mine to preserve the radius of that section.
Will you be allowing users to choose between a 2.5" or 2.5->2.75" throttle body elbow?
(I assume that you'll use a 90* silicone elbow to the TB since this requires less room than a 90* pipe coupled to the TB via a straight hose - or are you avoiding the 90* silicone hose because they can split?)
"The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler to the Skunk2 TB:
FYI: The AIT sensor was actually installed in the intercooler's coldside tank, not the coldside plumbing.
I shortened the 2.75" side of the elbow to ensure that the coldside hose would have plenty of clearance everywhere..
I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it:
Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly.
IC setup currently in development will accomodate AC/PS, yes. Design work on the IC setups is all complete, just working through the sourcing process now. Precision 350hp cores, solid aluminum pipes on both sides. Hoping to release in the summer.
Thank you for the clarification. Excited to see the final product!
"The Cobra" was my original DIY coldside intercooler plumbing from the Fab9 350hp intercooler
I hated all the worm clamps needed for that implementation so bought a FM coldside hose and modified it:
Now I only need 2 silicone hoses and one aluminium J-bend and am happy with it - it barely moves when I shake the aluminium pipe firmly.
03-21-2017, 12:47 PM
I'm so glad they stepped up and made an effort to fix the casting process.
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