I can't wait for this kit to become a kit and have a few additional years of enmasse track testing!

In the meantime, Rotrex!

 

IMO, the Rotrex isn't a competitor to this kit. Rotrex customers hold throttle response above all else, and are willing to sacrifice low-end torque to get it. Our kit focuses on transient response as well, but our customers aren't willing to sacrifice the monster mid-range torque of a turbocharger to get it. There are customers who would be happy with a Rotrex, and there are customers who would be happy with our turbo setup, but there is very little overlap between those two groups (in my opinion).

The driving experience is simply too different to compare them. Are they reliable on track? Yes, when properly installed, but our turbo kit will match that reliability. I know what it takes to do that.

 

Tiny minority of super special flower customers, reporting in

This is why this will be the first turbo kit installed on any of my cars. My #1 criteria was reliablility and my second was more power. I drove (tracked, autocross, daily) a Rotrex for 6 years and liked it, as did everyone else who rode in or drove my car. During that time I watched my fellow mt.net'ers who tracked their turbo cars go through the pain necessary to find the weak points and what was necessary to deal with them. The results of that research, which I appreciate, combined with the EFR series have delivered unto us this goodness.

Thanks Andrew!

 

Yup, he knows that. I've discussed both of these at great length with him.
I think he's saying that until your kit is complete and has proper customer thrashing hours (days, months, years?) under it's belt, the brotrex is about the only other complete and tried/proven "solution" for now........and he's about right.

 

Anyone have photos of the turbo to manifold hardware? I am interested in just getting the hardware kit. Looking to see just how tight the tight spots are. I read through the thread, saw some issues on page 11, but the guys never posted pix.

Thank you all!

 

Our EFR downpipe inlet flange vs. the competition. That little raised step allows our downpipe to center perfectly on the turbine housing. The proto DP doesn't have this little step and it is a huge pain in the *** to install, and even when I think I have it right, it still isn't centered. This flange will self-center and make misalignment virtually impossible.

The little things matter

9Ck3qybl.jpg

 

Oh man.

 

Looks like my Vibrant flange

 

Vibrant's flange slides over the outside of the tube, which leaves a pretty ugly step between the turbine discharge wall and the ID of the tube itself. Ours incorporates that step to blend the airflow from the housing to the flange to the tube. Details, my friend

 

The very cheapest V bands allow the exhaust tube to slip right through them. I like these because you can slip it through and out the other side 1-2mm, like above.

Dann

 

This is something that REALLY needs to be pointed out.

Without being aware of it, most wouldn't appreciate how simple it is to mate the two parts effectively unless they'd done this before without the aligning lip.

Many V-band leaks are probably due to mis-alignment, this eliminates that possibility.

Anything that eases installation and makes it fool-proof is worth paying for IMO, I hate "dicking around" for hours on something that's not quite right.

 

This all the things

 

How exactly does one misalign a v-band connection?

 

Different v-bands of the same size can have slightly different flange sizes. So you can have them slightly off. I don't think it makes a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but the aligning ones are a very nice bonus. It one of those things where lots of 1-3% improvements add up to give you a decent bump at the end for efficiency.

 

Sav, I just bought the stud kit and it says in the directions that one of the locks won't clear the turbo (right rear). Is this a typo? Do i need to trim the lock to use all 4?

 

Just do exactly what the instructions say. Three clips, Resbond on the lower/rear stud/nut. There are no typos.

 

So what is EFR specific about the $130 setup I got vs the $100 Garrett M8x1.25 kit? I knew that corner was a tight fit and assumed the EFR kit had a way around that. Specific stud lengths? I have an ARTech tubular manifold so I don't know if these will work vs the others, I just got the EFR kit cause that's what I have.

 

The EFR kit uses unique stud lengths.

The instructions clearly state that 3 locks and Resbond on the lower nut should be used. If that didn't work, I wouldn't have instructed you to do it that way.

 

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Guess I'll have a spare tab and lock, just in case.

 

Received the TSE manifold back from Competition Coatings, Competition Coatings QLD, during the week:






Looks great but I lost the TRACKSPEED branding along the long runner :(

It's probably too expensive, but for the next generation of the cast, consider adding it as raised lettering (if it is expensive, maybe just brand it with "TSE" - that would fit on the short front runner too and be more visible).