You can weld them, sure. I would clamp them together securely first, then remove the DP as one piece to make sure you can clear everything on your car before welding. You don't want to weld it and then discover it can't be removed

I really need to carve out a couple of days and finish writing the instructions, but one item of note for 5-speed guys. There's a small ear of metal on the 5-speed that interferes with the downpipe. You'll need to stick a reciprocating saw up there and chop that off before installing. 6-speed guys can ignore this. Pics below:

Location of the ear. It serves no purpose:
eF4RWnfl.jpg

Size of the ear after removal:
1IVBUrkl.jpg

 

I half expect to see a necklace made out of these things hanging on the wall in your shop

 

I am trying to figure out who is going to run a TSE setup with a 5 speed.

 

Dyno reclassed TT cars gaming their dyno plots?

 

I will be until I shred it. But I will also be running a stock block as well. Lets see what goes first. I will be using the low boost actuator to buy a little time. Was seriously going to build my current block but it just makes more sense to track down a VVT motor and 6 speed and do that all at once.

 

I'm just loving that part of the instructions for this amazing kit for installation with a 5-speed car will require use of a sawzall.

 

 

TSE will now also be renting out FaeFlora to do the dirty work for you.

 

He can also cut the transmission for you too. But the dirty work is where the real money is.

 

But can he stop at just one ear?

 

I really need to carve out a couple of days and finish writing the instructions,


This. My noob *** is going to seriously need some type of instructions. Including some things that might be considered common sense. I am hoping to not bug the **** out of you with endless emails starting with "How do you..."

 

I am running a 5 speed for a while. But 5th is now kicking out so 6 will be in there soon as i get it in.
Are you guys aware Bosch white papers say the 4.2 and 4.9 both are to run a temp of 900 C. Yes C. Max temp is 1000 C. So unless you are running more than 1700 f. Egt you are below operating temp according to Bosch. I run as close as possible. We run the airplane at 5 1/4 from the head. 7 inches Max from the valve. They last longer than in the car.

 

Suit yourself. I've already killed one LSU4.9 sensor running it in the rear position in a track car. My recommendation is to run the rear position.

 

I honestly think it has more to do with the number of heat cycles we put these things through than anything else.

Sav, any benefit to "upgrading" from the 4.2 to the 4.9? I believe my Innovate will let me do that if I change the cable and update the firmware, I just don't know if its worth it.

 

Not sure, the switch happened just before I put the MS3 in Acamas so I ended up with all 4.9 cars by happenstance.

 

Don't you just have to buy the sensor? Like go to a parts store and pick up the beetle sensor or whatever. Let me know if you do. I want to do it too.

 

I believe the connector is different, but don't quote me on that.

 

You are correct

Bosch LSU 4.2 and LSU 4.9 Multi-Sensor Support

And for $30 you can get just the cable and source your own sensor.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16364&cat=250&page=1

For you prime guys

https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Moto.../dp/B013UG0MJE

https://www.amazon.com/Oxygen-Sensor...dp/B01FS949SG/

Gordon, buy all that and install it before MRLS.

*Disclaimer, I have not ordered any of this, nor know if it works.

 

Hey, just sharing what bosch who designed the sensor says. Like i noted. Bosch says design temp 1700f. So sharing the info.
I am not on the track in my miata so can't say otherwise. But can say 100% in an aircraft they last longer than a miata with it lower in the pipe. Note i run them with extended mounts so not saturated in the exhaust stream. Tip is flush.
Was initially very worried about the aircraft mounting as we had no other location. Everyone says they won't last. Turns out they do very well. Even with lead contamination. So looked up bosch specs. Does sell more sensors i guess. My 4.9 has lasted longer than any i have had. It is running in stock header position. Being further downstream. Sensor response is better up close too.

 

Aircraft run lower EGTs as do NA cars. I've never had sensors survive in the upper pipe, and I've killed them in track cars in the lower position too. I wouldn't put it in the upper position.