I had almost zero issues using my FM hotside to FM2 standard IC pipe, I also upgraded to a precision 600hp equivalent size IC and combined with the location of the turbo there is only a small amount of kinking around the turbo outlet. I'm sure with some additional work I can get it perfect, but it would require trimming and I just ran out of time and it's had zero issues performing.

I've been holding out for a heat shield update but will probably just wrap my downpipe instead.

 

I can take a couple pictures when I get home if it helps anyone, but I have P/S and no A/C in my NA and had much less trouble fitting the piping than I expected... First time ever doing anything of this sort and it basically took two 90 degree aluminum bends on each side, with 4 total couplers (two 90's on the cold side, a 90 and a 45 on the hot side) in the system. No sawzall, no rubbing, clears power steering (not sure about A/C as I don't have it anymore).

 

This thread is loooooonggggg. I haven't followed it in quite some time. Excuse my request for spoon feeding but I feel like I've earned enough respect in the socal track community to ask stupid questions lol.

Just how long would a stock long block hold up under track usage in the 200-250whp range? Assuming typical track guy ancillary mods are done along side (proper cooling, oil cooler, etc) Asking for a friend of course...

 

The answer, like your "friend's" underwear choice, is: depends

 

Fortunately, I think Andrew knows me and my car well enough to read between the lines of what I'm asking. Or maybe i assume too much. And you know what happens when you assume.... *** party. Or something like that.

 

The answer is that his question doesn't belong in this particular vendor thread.

 

One missed shift can compromise a stock rod.

 

200-250 is a big range. 200whp, forever. 250whp, 3-18 months depending on your karmic status in the universe. Torque is the real killer as well. We set S1 at 220whp/210wtq because I feel that's a power/torque level where you can consistently expect to get at least a full season (10-11 races plus practice) out of a stock bottom end. At that power level, the failure mode is the same as stock - power slowly falls off, and then one day you notice it's consuming a lot more oil than it used to. At 230 or 240wtq, you are more likely to frag the block than you are to wear it out.

Start at S1 power, and if you decide you want more, then do a rods-only style build with a stock piston, rods, ACL bearings, and ARP mains. You can put that motor together for about $650 in aftermarket parts, plus the cost of a standard shortblock rebuild (hone, fresh rings, fresh oil pump, fresh gaskets). That's what I did in Rover, and that motor is bombproof to the ~280wtq mark. Add pistons and an oil pump to that formula and it's safe to ~400wtq.

 

That sounds awesome and I'm stoked that you push the limit with Rover like that!

That said, if you're using stock pistons and fresh rings, wouldn't you expect it to last the same amount of time as a stock motor with regard to oil consumption? Isn't the failure mechanism there just ring blow by due to accelerated wear?

(Question was posed by a friend and I'm curious as well!)

 

I hate bumping my own question, but... bueller?

Thanks in advance.

 

I am not really one to answer but I would assume that the life would be the same as a stock new motor.

 

Dono, don't have the data. I'd expect it to have a little less life expectancy than a stock one, but not much. It depends on how much power/boost you are stuffing through it.

 

That makes sense to me.

Thank you kindly sirs.

 

Hey Sav,
Would you be able to supply the EFR with the 90 degree compressor housing? If so what would be the price difference? Looking at Intercooler Plumbing options.

 

Email me

 

Looked at your manifold on the website, Does the listed price include Inconel Studs and stage 8 locking hardware or would those be a seperate purchase? I don't recall that info on the thread so forgive me if i missed it.

 

Can I get the EGR bolt size and pitch? I plan to drill/tap it and route an EGT pyrometer into runner #4.

 

A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.

Plugs are 3/8" NPT, bolts are 5/8-11. Only the earliest batch of manifolds have the 5/8-11 bolts.

 

[QUOTE=Savington;1462449]A full Trackspeed stud kit (studs, nuts, Resbond) is standard with every kit.

You and 949 are the best <3

 

[QUOTE=503TurboPeru;1462459]If you're buying just the manifold, then it won't include the stud kit with the locking hardware.