TurboTony DP installed today! - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Prefabbed Turbo Kits A place to discuss prefabricated turbo kits on the market
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-21-2008, 11:27 PM   #1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default TurboTony DP installed today!

Here's my story to go along with the title. The total install took about 4 hours damn IL and rust. The quality of the product was awesome, I had the 2 piece with flex and o2 bung by the cat. First off I don't know if I can feel a difference in spool or power, feels the same as with the 3" exhaust. But now 2 problems I have are, I couldn't get a nut or bolt on the bottom of the flange right where it connects to the turbo, any problems with that? seems like it doesn't leak. And now my wideband reads alot different than with the stock dp, in vacuum it reads way lean, but boost way rich. So can it be an exhaust leak, or it needs recalibrated? Would it mess up my tune just by swapping DP's I don't know if I believe the wideband?
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2008, 11:57 PM   #2
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

My TT dp was a pain to install too. Agreed on the awesome quality.

Surely there is a difference between that and the craptastic greddy DP.

For the bottom bolt, I took a grinder to the head of it and removed allot of material along with shortening the entire bolt too. I'd put that in if I were you.

I'd start by recalibrating your wideband, easiest thing to do. If that doesn't fix it then look or listen for exhaust leaks.

You should be a tad leaner in boost now due to the better overall VE of your engine. Probably not dangerous but you will be leaner. I went from stock catback exhaust to just an open cat and started seeing 12.6 in boost.
Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:00 AM   #3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
My TT dp was a pain to install too. Agreed on the awesome quality.

Surely there is a difference between that and the craptastic greddy DP.

For the bottom bolt, I took a grinder to the head of it and removed allot of material along with shortening the entire bolt too. I'd put that in if I were you.

I'd start by recalibrating your wideband, easiest thing to do. If that doesn't fix it then look or listen for exhaust leaks.

You should be a tad leaner in boost now due to the better overall VE of your engine. Probably not dangerous but you will be leaner. I went from stock catback exhaust to just an open cat and started seeing 12.6 in boost.

I agree I need the bolt in there but I cut the bolt and it just wont thread in there and in boost the wideband reads in the 9's but at idle is the same as before the DP so I dont know what to do? And I tried recalibrating it today but couldn't tell if it recalibrated or not?
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:04 AM   #4
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

Use a sanding wheel thingy (technical term) to chamfer the threaded end of the bolt, that should let it thread in.

Unplug the sensor, turn key to ON position for 20 seconds then turn it OFF. Plug the sensor back in with it hanging in the air. Then turn the key ON. This will do a full reset of the sensor, it worked when my sensor was acting up.
Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:20 AM   #5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
Use a sanding wheel thingy (technical term) to chamfer the threaded end of the bolt, that should let it thread in.

Unplug the sensor, turn key to ON position for 20 seconds then turn it OFF. Plug the sensor back in with it hanging in the air. Then turn the key ON. This will do a full reset of the sensor, it worked when my sensor was acting up.

yea I didnt do all that so your saying unplug the sensor from the box turn key on for 30 secs then back off, plug back in and turn key on with sensor hanging in the air then back off then unplug and screw back into exhaust then its good to go?
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:24 AM   #6
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobluemiata View Post
yea I didnt do all that so your saying unplug the sensor from the box turn key on for 30 secs then back off, plug back in and turn key on with sensor hanging in the air then back off then unplug and screw back into exhaust then its good to go?
Correct, but at the end, you turn the key OFF after the sensor is done calibrating and the led lights up solid.
Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:28 AM   #7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
Correct, but at the end, you turn the key OFF after the sensor is done calibrating and the led lights up solid.
so after its hanging there for 30 secs with the key on in the fresh air turn the key back to OFF and then screw it back in?
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:29 AM   #8
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

Do you have the LED hooked up? Wait till it lights up solid before you turn the key off at the end and then screw it back in.
Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 12:34 AM   #9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
Do you have the LED hooked up? Wait till it lights up solid before you turn the key off at the end and then screw it back in.
yea I got the LED hooked up but doesn't unplugging it defeat the purpose? and this is awesome just back and forth about this lol
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 01:00 AM   #10
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

Unplug and remove the sensor then do this:

"3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air
for the first time calibration.
- 9 -
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See Appendix for details.
Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After the heater calibration is finished you should perform a free air calibration. The free air
calibration is accomplished by either pressing the push-button or connecting the black wire to
ground for three seconds and then releasing. During this procedure a connected LED will go off.
The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1."

Taken from the manual.
Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 01:04 AM   #11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
turbobluemiata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,019
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
Unplug and remove the sensor then do this:

"3 First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air
for the first time calibration.
- 9 -
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See Appendix for details.
Slow and steady blinking indicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After the heater calibration is finished you should perform a free air calibration. The free air
calibration is accomplished by either pressing the push-button or connecting the black wire to
ground for three seconds and then releasing. During this procedure a connected LED will go off.
The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1."

Taken from the manual.
awesome I was just looking for my manual right now lol thanks man (misplaced it permanently)
turbobluemiata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2008, 01:15 AM   #12
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,778
Total Cats: 35
Default

Bryce is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Buzzing from driver side of engine bay? (MS3 install) nick470 MEGAsquirt 7 06-16-2017 02:53 PM
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Back to Stock Part Out!! Turbo Parts, MS2 Enhanced 01-05, Suspension, and MOAR! StratoBlue1109 Miata parts for sale/trade 16 10-02-2015 10:39 AM
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump $50 lsc224 Miata parts for sale/trade 2 10-01-2015 10:17 AM
Low oil pressure after 1.8 swap and new turbo setup JesseTheNoob DIY Turbo Discussion 15 09-30-2015 03:44 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:43 AM.