I had the exact same problem with my Tony pipe- the end of the downpipe wanted to hit either the bellhousing or the subframe (can't remember which) because it seemed as though the flange on the DP was rotated very slightly relative to the mating surface on the turbo. This seems to support Bell's claim as well.

In my case, this was easily solved by spending a few minutes with a dremel and a carbide bit. I simply determined the direction that the flange needed to rotate in order to center the pipe, and elongated the bolt holes in that direction. It was only necessary to take a few mm off each one.

 

yeah, i was going to do that, but the way it sits, the main downpipe opening would end up DANGEROUSLY close to not sealing against the turbine flange...

i'll see what begi says when i hear back. maybe a few minutes with a torch can put the miniscule bend in it that it needs to clear the bellhousing... :-)

 

Good!

 

talked to donnie last night after he had a chance to take a look at it, and apparently using the bolt hole closest to the driver's side fender will keep the main DP tube's centerline in roughly the same place.

so using that as a base, i can dremel out the other three bolt holes a tad, making them oblong like the new flange will be. this should give me the extra 1/16" or so of rotation i need to clear the bellhousing.

not psyched i have to modify the part, but was very happy that they took a look at the problem yesterday and got me a solution same-day. thumbs up.

 

i had this same thing happen. then i tried the exact same thing you are, and once it was on, the wastegate got partially blocked and now i overboost huge.
just get corky to make you another one. this way, it fits right without modification.

 

well, this one doesn't have that little divider that comes out between the two tubes. it's just a flat flange, so i don't think that will be a problem. i'll check it out when i make the mods, though.

 

Let us know if what Donnie suggested works. Out of curiosity, what manifold are you using?
Stephanie

 

it's a standard greddy manifold/turbo. i understand the greddy turbine flanges have presented a couple problems to you guys, so i guess this is just me feeling part of that pain.

 

The development car had a greddy replacement manifold. We are wondering if the manifolds have a slight machining difference. That could account for the 5% difference or placement of wastegate vent tube.

Donnie is still working on it some today. Let us know if altering the bolt holes work, or if you would like to send it back and we can do it.
Stephanie

 

well, got it to fit, finally. used a dremel and carbide bit to oblong three of the four bolt holes and got it to fit on the turbine housing. then i noticed that the flange extended out past the turbine housing casting and would have blocked the wastegate from opening fully...

had to spend some more quality time with a sawzall and the carbide bit again to cut a decent sized notch out of the flange to allow the wastegate arm to clear.

all is well now, but to begi, please double check that this isn't a problem on future greddy downpipes.

all in all, i'm psyched, though. car pulls great and the pipe's doing it's job. they were excellent and helped me out when i called (on top of sounding actually concerned about my issue. can't ask for too much more than that with custom parts)

 

do u have a photo of the finished product, Devin?

 

i don't at the moment. i was too excited that i got it to fit. lol

i'll take a couple pictures when i work on the car again this week.

 

I was going to ask for photos too! If you could send me some that would be great.

Also, Donnie is fairly certain he has the w/g arm issue fixed. When did we ship your downpipe?
Thanks!!
Stephanie

 

shipped right around the beginning of sept. i think i received it the 5th.

i'll try to snap a couple of pics this week.

 

I'd like to see the pics of the fix as well, since my BEGI downpipe is sitting in my basement waiting for my car to come back from the body shop.

One other thing that I've noticed is that the divorced wastegate portion meets back up with the main pipe before the swaged (expanded) section of the downpipe. While I don't doubt that the design is better than the puny drinking-straw stock downpipe, this seems to be contrary to the design for the BEGI turbo-kit downpipes which have the divorced wastegate pipe meeting up after the swaged out section of the downpipe thereby making a small 6 inch section right before the slipjoint a tiny bottleneck in the whole scheme of things. Was this done due to space considerations or was it an oversight in design?

Much appreciated.

 

BTW... for those that has installed their BELL DP. Any tips for the installation? Procedures?

Thanks,

 

ummm ... i have no experience with divorced wastegates ... but why the hell would you want to reintroduce it after the flex section? If thats what I am thinking you are saying that would be an extremely dumb idea because when the exhaust and engine started moving around all that stress would be transmitted through that little pipe and I could see it failing in no time.

So what downpipes have you seen that reintroduce after a flex section?

 

I don’t think cyee is talking about having the divorced wastegate tube reintroduced after the flex section, but rather having it enter in a wider section of the down pipe. There by reducing the bottle neck. Isn’t that the reason we wanted the larger diameter down pipe in the first place?

 

Ah that would make sense. I didnt quite follow where he said "the main pipe before the swaged (expanded) section". Is "swaged" a term I need to know (honestly, no sarcasm intended)?

 

swage
n.
1. A tool used in bending or shaping cold metal.
2. A stamp or die for marking or shaping metal with a hammer.
3. A swage block.
tr.v. swaged, swag·ing, swag·es
To bend or shape by or as if by using a swage.

Personally, I have always used the word to describe a crimp e.g., a butt connector.