90 Miata w/Greddy Kit I just Picked Up - Some Opinions Please
10-18-2006, 10:37 PM
#1
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90 Miata w/Greddy Kit I just Picked Up - Some Opinions Please
Hey guys. I just picked this car up this week and since have been doing a bit of research on the setup (wrong order, I know) and came across this site. I was wondering what you guys thought of it, and if you saw any glaring ommissions in the previous owner's modification path. I haven't really decided if I'm going to keep the car yet, but if I do I want to make sure everything is good to go and done right.
Thanks in advance...
Previous Owner's Add:
1990 Mazda Miata
-91k Original Miles
-Clean title
-Red on Gray Black
Mods
ENGINE
-Greddy Turbo Kit 8 psi
-Custom Front Mount Intercooler
-Water Spray on Intercooler
-Custom sidepipe exhaust 2" no cat
-New Timing belt/water pump/head gasket at 75k miles.
DRIVETRAIN
-1.8 Liter Differential Swap (Bigger Better) We blew the 1.6 liter diff.
-Act Stage II Clutch
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-MSD Boost Retard Control
-Vortech FMU
-Walbro 255 hi- flow fuel pump
SUSPENSION
-Tokico illumina(5 way adjustable) struts&springs
-Racing beat swaybars front and rear
-Flyin Miata rear brace
-Flyin Miata Strut Bar
INTERIOR
-Harddog hardcore hardtop roll bar
-Pioneer Head Unit CD
-Pioneer Door Speakers
-Autometer Boost Gauge (mounted in center consol)
-Autometer AIR/Fuel Gauge (same spot as boost)
-Apexi Turbo Timer w/Air Fuel Guage
EXTERIOR
-OEM Hardtop
-Convertable Top Removed but included
-Mazda Speed Front Lip
-All Factory lights put back in. (had F'd up tails and clears all around. poop)
-Foglights
-15x7 Rota GT3s street (14 inch rims with Azenis for track)
BRAKES
-Axxis ultimate pads (2k ago)
-New Rotors (2k ago)
Thanks in advance...
Previous Owner's Add:
1990 Mazda Miata
-91k Original Miles
-Clean title
-Red on Gray Black
Mods
ENGINE
-Greddy Turbo Kit 8 psi
-Custom Front Mount Intercooler
-Water Spray on Intercooler
-Custom sidepipe exhaust 2" no cat
-New Timing belt/water pump/head gasket at 75k miles.
DRIVETRAIN
-1.8 Liter Differential Swap (Bigger Better) We blew the 1.6 liter diff.
-Act Stage II Clutch
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
-MSD Boost Retard Control
-Vortech FMU
-Walbro 255 hi- flow fuel pump
SUSPENSION
-Tokico illumina(5 way adjustable) struts&springs
-Racing beat swaybars front and rear
-Flyin Miata rear brace
-Flyin Miata Strut Bar
INTERIOR
-Harddog hardcore hardtop roll bar
-Pioneer Head Unit CD
-Pioneer Door Speakers
-Autometer Boost Gauge (mounted in center consol)
-Autometer AIR/Fuel Gauge (same spot as boost)
-Apexi Turbo Timer w/Air Fuel Guage
EXTERIOR
-OEM Hardtop
-Convertable Top Removed but included
-Mazda Speed Front Lip
-All Factory lights put back in. (had F'd up tails and clears all around. poop)
-Foglights
-15x7 Rota GT3s street (14 inch rims with Azenis for track)
BRAKES
-Axxis ultimate pads (2k ago)
-New Rotors (2k ago)
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10-18-2006, 11:32 PM
#7
-All Factory lights put back in. (had F'd up tails and clears all around. poop)
I like you already.
It looks like a good setup, very clean and traditional Greddy upgrades. There is nothing amiss about any of it, in fact, you'll find just about everybody with a Greddy who decides to upgrade follows right along with what's been done to your car. Unless you're looking for more power right now, I'd change nothing except what Brain said... and I'd love to see how those fog lights are mounted.
Be sure to create a vbGarage with all your mods and some pics. You do know about the microsoft image resizer, right? If you don't: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...63&postcount=5
Your left side headlight has been bent slightly down about 1/4" (leaving a noticeable gap between the trailing edge and the hood) by someone leaning on it. Easy fix... Pop the hood and very gently lift up on it to even it out with the hood.
Brain is right, you need to see some dyno-graphs and A/F ratios for your piece of mind. Did the PO tell you he'd had it Dyno'd. If not, spend the $150 or so for a couple runs and some tuning. Get in touch with these guys to recommend you a place: http://www.miataclubofhawaii.com/
The only thing to make you aware of is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.... I could be a little off (not a Greddy expert), but at 8psi, I think that setup should run about 180rwhp if properly tuned. I think you could safely run about 10psi like you are now.
I like you already.
It looks like a good setup, very clean and traditional Greddy upgrades. There is nothing amiss about any of it, in fact, you'll find just about everybody with a Greddy who decides to upgrade follows right along with what's been done to your car. Unless you're looking for more power right now, I'd change nothing except what Brain said... and I'd love to see how those fog lights are mounted.
Be sure to create a vbGarage with all your mods and some pics. You do know about the microsoft image resizer, right? If you don't: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...63&postcount=5
Your left side headlight has been bent slightly down about 1/4" (leaving a noticeable gap between the trailing edge and the hood) by someone leaning on it. Easy fix... Pop the hood and very gently lift up on it to even it out with the hood.
Brain is right, you need to see some dyno-graphs and A/F ratios for your piece of mind. Did the PO tell you he'd had it Dyno'd. If not, spend the $150 or so for a couple runs and some tuning. Get in touch with these guys to recommend you a place: http://www.miataclubofhawaii.com/
The only thing to make you aware of is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.... I could be a little off (not a Greddy expert), but at 8psi, I think that setup should run about 180rwhp if properly tuned. I think you could safely run about 10psi like you are now.
Last edited by samnavy; 10-18-2006 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Remove stupid comments
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10-18-2006, 11:32 PM
#8
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Replace the plugs, wires and fuel filter.
Get some T bolt clamps.
Throw the air/ fuel gauge in the garbage and replace with a wideband.
Get an exhaust and downpipe that are at least 2.5" but go for full 3" if you can.
Add some water/methanol injection.
Get some T bolt clamps.
Throw the air/ fuel gauge in the garbage and replace with a wideband.
Get an exhaust and downpipe that are at least 2.5" but go for full 3" if you can.
Add some water/methanol injection.
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10-18-2006, 11:35 PM
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Lots of different opinions on turbo timers. I think if you aren't boosting up your driveway or in parking lots right before you park and you use a synthetic oil they probably aren't a must have.
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10-18-2006, 11:36 PM
#11
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The only thing to make you aware of is the stock 6" rear dif that came in the car is the weak link in your setup. The traditional upgrade is to purchase a 7" 1.8 Torsen rear dif from a '94 and up equipped car, along with the driveshaft and axles, it's a direct swap. If you're a drag racer or drifter, you stand a good chance of breaking the stock dif with the power in the car now. I could be a little off (not a Greddy expert), but at 8psi, I think that setup should run about 180rwhp if properly tuned. I think you could safely run about 10psi like you are now.
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10-18-2006, 11:39 PM
#12
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I had a 10min conversation with corky about them one day. Basically if you arent boosting, the turbo needs little oil to spin, and cooling it down for 20sec after you turn off your car isn't going to do anything. Stop boosting a few seconds before you stop the car and shut it off.
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10-18-2006, 11:44 PM
#14
DAMN, somehow I misread and thought CLUTCH instead of DIF.
There are millions of stock turbo'd vehicles out there that go many hundreds of thousands of miles without turbo-timers. My opinion, they're just not safe. When you walk away from your car with the engine still running it must be in neutral. How much faith do you put in your parking brake?
Now, after 1/2 hour of roasting it up out on the track, yah, I might let it sit for a minute before shutting it off if I didn't think the cooldown laps were enough... but I wouldn't get out until it was shut off... and what Brain said.
There are millions of stock turbo'd vehicles out there that go many hundreds of thousands of miles without turbo-timers. My opinion, they're just not safe. When you walk away from your car with the engine still running it must be in neutral. How much faith do you put in your parking brake?
Now, after 1/2 hour of roasting it up out on the track, yah, I might let it sit for a minute before shutting it off if I didn't think the cooldown laps were enough... but I wouldn't get out until it was shut off... and what Brain said.
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10-19-2006, 12:10 AM
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Since sam got picky, I will too... Looks like you have a bit of a bottleneck between your turbo and i/c caused by the greddy "s" pipe. Check out a few engine pics in vbgarage to see a better route. You'll get more power with same or less boost.
As others have said, see what color your injectors are. If they are blue, then they are the stockers and you should change them out. I couldn't get 8 safely out of my stockers. Heat wrap your dipstick tube, brake master, clutch master, and other sensitive bits around the turbo.
Get a wb o2 in there or take it to a dyno asap. You may have some fuel issues. I'm guessing with the walbro 255 and vortech (assuming the 12:1 disk is still installed) you're running rich under vac, and probably real lean over 5 or 6 psi. It might be in your best interest to bring it down to 6 psi until you get it on the dyno. Oh, where's the MSD hiding? Don't see it in the pics.
</picky>
She's real good looking. Very clean. Congrats.
As others have said, see what color your injectors are. If they are blue, then they are the stockers and you should change them out. I couldn't get 8 safely out of my stockers. Heat wrap your dipstick tube, brake master, clutch master, and other sensitive bits around the turbo.
Get a wb o2 in there or take it to a dyno asap. You may have some fuel issues. I'm guessing with the walbro 255 and vortech (assuming the 12:1 disk is still installed) you're running rich under vac, and probably real lean over 5 or 6 psi. It might be in your best interest to bring it down to 6 psi until you get it on the dyno. Oh, where's the MSD hiding? Don't see it in the pics.
</picky>
She's real good looking. Very clean. Congrats.
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10-19-2006, 01:59 AM
#17
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Wow guys, thanks for all the thoughts and advice.
I'll check on the injectors when I get back in town. I'll also inquire with the pre-previous owner who actually did all the mods about the vortech.
The MSD is hiding down by the passenger side shock tower. Fits there rather nicely actually, although it doesn't seem to actually be fastened to anything...yet.
As for the IC plumbing, I'm not happy with it at all. I made it a little better than it was when I picked it up, but I've actually already downloaded a bunch of pics from this forum even before the suggestion.
Thanks again for the advice. A little confused though, samnavy says the car should be fine at 8, and even 10psi (assuming everything is functioning correctly) and ben is advising a bit more caution. Are you assuming somethings been missed in the buildup of this car ben, or are you just advising that I should do an in-depth dive into where the car actually is before being comfortable with it?
I like to do things correctly, so I tend to err on the side of caution myself.
Will post more pics when I get back in town as well. The car photographs well. It's a bit rougher in person.
I'll check on the injectors when I get back in town. I'll also inquire with the pre-previous owner who actually did all the mods about the vortech.
The MSD is hiding down by the passenger side shock tower. Fits there rather nicely actually, although it doesn't seem to actually be fastened to anything...yet.
As for the IC plumbing, I'm not happy with it at all. I made it a little better than it was when I picked it up, but I've actually already downloaded a bunch of pics from this forum even before the suggestion.
Thanks again for the advice. A little confused though, samnavy says the car should be fine at 8, and even 10psi (assuming everything is functioning correctly) and ben is advising a bit more caution. Are you assuming somethings been missed in the buildup of this car ben, or are you just advising that I should do an in-depth dive into where the car actually is before being comfortable with it?
I like to do things correctly, so I tend to err on the side of caution myself.
Will post more pics when I get back in town as well. The car photographs well. It's a bit rougher in person.
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10-19-2006, 08:58 AM
#18
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you'd be fine at the 15psi mark given the correct fuel mixture.
I asked about the color of the injectors cuase I wanted to make sure they weren't stock 203cc ones. Then we gotta figure out what ratio FMU disc you are using. If you boosting 8 psi on a 12:1 you're most likely maxing out your fuel pump. So you might be rich at idle at and lean at WOT. Exactly why I suggested a trip to the dyno.
I asked about the color of the injectors cuase I wanted to make sure they weren't stock 203cc ones. Then we gotta figure out what ratio FMU disc you are using. If you boosting 8 psi on a 12:1 you're most likely maxing out your fuel pump. So you might be rich at idle at and lean at WOT. Exactly why I suggested a trip to the dyno.
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