blue89turbo

Hey brgracer,

So you think it would be safe to upgrade the exhaust before the BIPES?

Here is my thinking now

1. BIPES
2. DP/exhaust
3. I/C

You guys think that is the proper sequence or doesn't it matter too much?

blue89turbo

Hey you know what I meant...:gay:

blue89turbo

Thanks,

Well i used to have a MK3 Supra Turbo and the HG was the weak link there.
I always made sure she was up to temp before boosting and let her cool down afterwards...so i guess you could say that I am used to proper heat up and cool down procedures....

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it matters alot. Do the bipes first, tune the car and see if you want more power. If you do, then the IC (or WI) would be the next step because you will probably want to increase your boost pressure and will need the cooling. DP/exhaust only helps to remove the bottlenecks in flow and should be done as the last step - say after you have gotten 95% of the power possible out of your base system. Allowing a poorly tuned, knocking engine to breathe a little better will not help you.

Maverick

Same question here.....I'm likely going to go this route;

- Bipes (hope to install it same time I put the turbo on later this month)
- Exhaust
- Intercooler
- Clutch
- Downpipe (I may have to do this earlier, I understand)

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I would go:

1. Timing
2. Blow off valve
3. Clutch
4. Intercooler
5. Exhaust

The timing controller will allow for reasonable timing advance and will make the car more pleasant to drive. The BOV will make the turbo last longer. If you yearn for more power at that point, go ahead and get a clutch installed and broken in, then add the things that will let the turbo breathe.

Snowsurfer03

I say save a few more $'s and do atleast the downpipe and exhaust when you first put on the kit because it is a pain in the buttttt to bolt everything on and then a few weeks later take it all off again to put new stuff on.

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Are these M8 studs and bolds??

Are stainless a good option? (the oem seems to rust quickly)

shifttosixth

ok I dont want to thread jack but will you have to run a recirculated bov on the greddy? Or can you run a vta?

ds23pallas

You can run VTA so long as it's a double-piston type such as the HKS SSQV.

blue89turbo

Thanks for the response.

I agree I think safeguarding against detonation should be the first step as well. It makes sense, you dont want to push things with out proper timing or fuel control.
I know the greddy comes with a secondary fuel pressure regulator. I am not sure what the max capability of this though. Anyone?

THanks

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Max capability of the afpr is @ 6psi...
You can add diff discs to the afpr, combined with a hp fuelpump to a higher level..but youll need an ic , 1.8 dif, better cluch...to go anywhere from 6 psi...
An ignition retarder is also nice.

Stick with the oem greddy for now and read a lott!!!!!

blue89turbo

I have a single piston VTA BOV at home. I was hoping to install this on my OEM intake crossover pipe until I get an I/C. What is the issue, vacuum leak and Idle problems?
I am pretty sure i saw a few pictures of people running a VTA BOV with no I/C before?

Thanks

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I ran VTA with an ebay knock off without any problems. You're correct: You don't want the BOV to draw in air that bypasses the air-metering device. If the valve is a leak, it can typically be plugged by putting a one way valve (check valve) between the bov and intake tube. If you need such a device, user SamNavy has a bosch BOV with a check valve for sale in the classifieds for $20 or $30.

blue89turbo

Thanks, that is basically what I plan on doing, just keep it base Greddy for now with the BIPES and work out all the (hopefully) small issues. Then maybe through next winter install I/C DP exhaust etc. - we'll see how it goes I know my clutch is getting there.

You know greddymx5, my mom actually comes from Haarlem, that is in the south part of Holland near Belgium and Germany right? I have been there myself!


Jason

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Holland is very small, but its on the west coast off Holland, but i understand the confusion:
It is near Belgium and Germany (150 miles) but thats about the size of my country.
I believe north-south is 200miles , east west 100-150 miles
Did you like it?

Map off haarlem.

http://www.viamichelin.fr/viamicheli...1&empriseH=400

BTW if you need something to translate to surprice your mother, just ask...
From me to your mother: ask her if she misses DROP... (dutch candy, everybody else hates it...)
(english is not my main language, as you already read...It's difficult , like you to learn dutch...)

blue89turbo

Hi I checked your map out. Actually it is called Heerlen and it is near Maastricht. I had a great time in Holland though, hopefully I can come back in the next few years (staying with relatives keeps the price down)
I know what you are talking about. I like drops actually, i think you have too be dutch though...no one I know likes them either...

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

If you are in coming to holand again. Please contact me...

MiaTurbo

for the studs, I believe the thread is 8x1.25 Get shouldered studs like the ones pictured on the right here. I believe you will need 8 of them.

blue89turbo

Will do! But if it happens it will probably be in a few years...