Actually did a run in 1:1 gear and afr were at 12.0. They were reading closer to 13 when going though 2nd and a little of 3rd which aren't load gears. Once it gets higher in the rpm range it comes down.

We just finished building my buddies turbo miata. He runs on links, old unit but I like it. Car makes a crap load of power.

 

Dude what is ur problem? I sent u a pm and u refuse to answer and continue to be a child here.

 

ARE YOU RETARDED? Or just dense enough to think we're all as stupid as you and/or born yesterday

You join, make 10 really pointless and stupid posts, then throw up your car for sale a week later.

You are not a contributing member to this forum, and an idiot if you really think we can't see past your BS.

And if you PM me again I'll blow up your inbox with things you've never seen before.

DIAF

Good day sir.

 

Why oh why did I not think of AFR by gear before?
Dafaq is a "load gear"?

 

Must make power if it has more than 1 link.

 

 

Bro I feel really bad for you that you take this whole forum thing so seriously. Lol

 

I feel really bad for your car.

 

Car runs perfect. I'm done talking to u two idiots. Not here to start pointless arguments on a forum. Yes I have my miata up for sale and yes I joined cause I have two other miatas. One is a spec miata and other is a 96 that I plan to do autox with. So grow up and calm down already.

 

Which is it? Can't have both.

 

You can have both...both links in 1 car. Just ask him.

 

Two Links One *******.

 

Two Links?

 

D: What happened to my thread?

 

Shhhhhhhhh....

No tears, only dreams.

 

 

I have owned a dozen Miatas, built my turbocharged and supercharged Miatas, fiddled with Megasquirt PNP, as well as ran AEM V2 on my 2001 S2000 with a Paxton 1200 (13 psi). And well the Corvette I can say had the cheapest and most affordable engine management to dynotune.

Of course, someone will make a joke about that, but I am saying all that for the pretext of what I am about to say.

If you are wanting an easy to install, hassle-free fuel management unit that will work well with the ECU, maintain your OBD-2 readouts, keep your air conditioning, and all the hard work that is put into making a car crank immediately in adverse temperatures and conditions without flooding the engine or repeated cranking attempts, then, contrary to what most people will say, the voodoo box is an economical choice and a reliable good working choice at that.

Just as long as you're power goals are practical and moderate, 6-8 psi, 160-180 rwhp based on year model and displacement. You'll have to retard timing by 2 or 4 degrees based on your available octane rating, so be expected to see a little dent in your midrange torque, but it isn't going to carbon lock your engine or clog your catalytic converter overnight, like some may suggest with impending doom in their post on here.

I would like to make one note, for kicks I used to have a 2004 MSM with little enchilada and a 1999 10AE with almost the same setup, same turbo, but voodoo box instead.

There was no comparison, the 1999, even with its voodoo box seemed to make more power and it's drivability hands-down decimated the MSM's craptastic tune of an ECU...

Now, honestly, are they worth 415 dollars plus shipping, I have to say no, but you can pick them up for 150 dollars used. If you got a reputable and professional tuner with a dynometer that can tune your car with Megasquirt PNP, then go that route. Get it set up, load the basemaps, and then let them deal with the harder stuff.

Unfortunately, for folks like me, we live in NASCAR land and our tuners would rather have someone **** in their face rather than tune a car that has four cylinders instead of eight.

 

The closest tuner I know would be top speed tuning in Alpharetta Georgia, but I doubt he does Megasquirt. So I am screwed... I probably have to drive 500 miles to get my car to a Megasquirt dyno tuner lol.

 

Cody, just use Tuner Studio VE Analyze Live.

 

This is exactly what I was saying previously. The problem is that no one can leave these systems alone and almost always want more, because they can have more. If you have the testicular fortitude to not screw with it, and if the above apply, then go for it.

See, this is where I respectfully disagree. You can pick up a solid used DIYPNP, MS2 or MS2-E for only slightly more and you don't need to pay someone for a dyno tune. (You should have a wideband either way so that's moot) If you read and learn and use the tools avalible, road tuning a Megasquirt is not that hard, but you must be willing to commit the time to doing it. There is a learning curve, and it can be steep, but its nothing that isn't insurmountable. We have enough examples of people posting copies of their AFR targets and timing tables with community feedback that finding something safe and conservative should be no problem at all, provided you read and understand exactly what you are doing. Don't misunderstand me, im not advocating loading a random tune off the internet, that's a sure recipe form disaster. You can blow up your **** with a megasquirt just as easily as you can with a voodoo.

Also, come on man, who told you that you had to give up AC with a MS? What's with the talk of flooding and whatnot? I never had the problems you described that couldn't be resolved with something in the tune or configuration.