1.6 or 1.8 for track
both are easy to work with.
If you can start with a 1.8 you will have less things to swap (diff, brakes), but depending on how much track duty and how serious you are some of those will be taken off anyway. Then you can sell the 1.8 pieces for more used than 1.6 parts.
If you can start with a 1.8 you will have less things to swap (diff, brakes), but depending on how much track duty and how serious you are some of those will be taken off anyway. Then you can sell the 1.8 pieces for more used than 1.6 parts.
Very helpful response hustler.
OP, it would help to know more about your budget and plans for the car. They are both easy to work with, nearly identical. The 1.6 is cheaper, and the 1.8 is faster, it's that simple.
OP, it would help to know more about your budget and plans for the car. They are both easy to work with, nearly identical. The 1.6 is cheaper, and the 1.8 is faster, it's that simple.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
both the 1.6 and 1.8 use the same metric fasteners so it should be just as easy to work on either. Maybe the 1.6 is 10-20lb lighter...so if you had to carry it around it might be easier to carry.
The OP hit the "New Thread" button and made it. That is how it became a thread. Beings you have 1300+ posts, I'd think you would know how to make a new thread by now.....
If this is your first track car - start simple and get an 90-93 if you're on a shoestring budget and learn to drive it before doing anything to the engine. You'll be able to find many more 'cheaper' 1.6 miatas over the 94+ 1.8s. Spend the initial money in the suspension, brakes and rubber... then go from there. But Sav told ya right, grab a '90-93 b/c it's the lightest oem miata you can get.
Is there any weight difference between the '90 and the other NA shells?
Is there any weight difference between the '90 and the other NA shells?







