On the 4-5 shift, there is a "false" gate if you go too far over. 5th is not as far over as you think. Narrow your shift and that will help. I think that false gate is there because the shift pattern has to be wider to accomodate the reverse detent that is all the way to that side and back.

I have had a super-tight and notchy 2004 MSM 6 speed and a loosey-goosey 2001 6-speed. Both with MR shifters. They both had what I call the "false" gate.

Interesting, I went through 3 different 6 speeds and I could shift all of them really fast. They are definitely vague though. Might just have to learn how to deal with it.

I had lots of shifting problems on the track especially when loaded through corners. Adding solid engine and diff mounts helped lots, the MR shifter helped a fair bit, and Amsoil MTG oil helped also...Combined I think they fixed 75% of the issues but I think in the end its just seat time and getting used to it. I don't let anyone else drive my car now because of the ease of missing a downshift.

Edit: actually I just added a solid engine brace from the head to the chassis which has improved it further. I may as well hard mount the engine to the chassis now.

This. Slow down your shifts and get used to the gearbox. I can shift 4-5s in a 6-speed just as fast as I can in a 5-speed.

6speed transmissions are the biggest piece of shit transmission these car came equiped from factory. The improved the bellhousing and the ability to fill with oil through the shifter but the gears suck big time. First gear is useless

Absolutely no one changes to the 6 speed because it is good, we all switch to them because they are stronger. If we had a way to build the 5 speed to hold real power, I doubt anyone would ever buy the 6 speed.

hold real power, reliably and repeatedly, for a significant length of time

I swapped to a 6sp for the tighter gearing. No more drops down to 5k.
I'll learn to downshift 5-4 eventually.

1st is a nice trailer gear. :)

The best advise I've gotten comes from Savington. He said to lift your elbow, have arm horizontal and open palm the shifter into 5th. That helped a LOT. All in all it still requires way to much mental concentration. Not to bad when cold but gets worse with heat. Maybe a cooler and lockouts would be the answer.

I am going sequential so no more of this nonsense for me. Whatever reservations I had went away when Emilio gave me a ride in Taxi last Friday. That trans will be a game changer for me!

If you want 1st to be useful with a turbo you put a 3.636 in it. That gives you almost exactly the same speed ranges as a 5-speed with a 4.3 in the first 5 gears (4th is a bit off).

--Ian

Yeah 36 @ 7200, while still not great, is at least somewhat useful with the right tires.
He's n/a though, so it would be a dog otherwise. Need 250+ torque for that

A 3.6 with a 5-speed would be a dog. A 3.6 with a 6-speed is basically the same as a 4.3 with a 5-speed, so it's no more of a dog than any other naturally aspirated car is.

Effective gear ratios for 5-speed w/ 4.3 are:

1st: 3.163 * 4.3 == 13.6:1
2nd: 1.888 * 4.3 == 8.1:1
3rd: 1.333 * 4.3 == 5.7:1
4th: 1.0 * 4.3 == 4.3:1
5th: .814 * 4.3 == 3.5:1

And for a 6-speed w/ 3.636:

1st: 3.760 * 3.636 == 13.7:1
2nd: 2.269 * 3.636 == 8.2:1
3rd: 1.645 * 3.636 == 6.0:1
4th: 1.257 * 3.636 == 4.6:1
5th: 1.0 * 3.636 == 3.6:1
6th: 0.843 * 3.636 == 3.0:1

3rd and 4th are the biggest difference vs the 5-speed, but even those are pretty small and would be better in the n/a car using the 6-speed. If you drove the car blindfolded and ignored the shift feel issues, I don't think you could tell the difference between the two options.

--Ian

I run a 6 speed with a 4.78 diff... I'm pretty sure I could pull stumps with my 1st gear, but then my car doesn't idle well below 2000 so I need it to move around in the pits.

I figure that the PPF acts like a big spring winding up under engine load and so when you release the load via the clutch pedal the whole transmission rotates back just as you are selecting the next gear. (edit: Slower shifting gives it all more time to settle into position) Of all my alterations the solid engine brace from the head to the chassis makes the biggest improvement to stop the twist and it would be easy to unbolt for street usage. Just bolt it up when you get to the track.

Mine cost me $30 and it's simply two M10 rod ends threaded into a 16mm diameter aluminium bar that I drilled the guts out of. It's nice and light but solid enough to take a bit of load. It's probably harder to fit in for you turbo guys but for me it just goes from the front lift point on the head to the triangular chassis brace.

I have problems with 5-6 being 5-4 instead sometimes. It's tougher when cornering and pulling G's to find any of them. I just wish they were all spaced further apart left to right and had stronger springs. But I'm growing used to it.

Didn't Thumpetto get his tranny built? I wonder if they will build a 5spd?

He did. It feels like crap. Biggest waste of money ever.

Really? I assume you sat in his car at MRLS. Was it a 6 or 5 I can't remember?

No I drove his car extensively because I did all the work on it the 1st time around (before he decided to waste money on the stupid trans rebuild which IMHO he didn't need). Also he stayed at my house for a few days when he came down for MRLS, so I drove it after too. It's a 6. It felt more loose after rebuild than before.

The company that did it (I forget the name now) is supposedly really good. So I expected magic. I was thoroughly unimpressed. If it were my trans, I'd be furious.

That sucks. I would be in full rage mode if I were him but...:dunno:

Did he ever say why he was getting out of the whole miata thing or was that something he wanted to keep private?

Yes, private. He'll be back soon enough, he still loves miatas.