Thanks for all the feedback on this. Sounds like all I can do is keep working on my technique. I have about 8-10 hours of seat time in the car and have improved, but I'm disappointed on the focus it takes to hit 5th, I have found an elbo up approach helps, but may just shift back to 5 speed.

In the back of my mind Is NASA TT next year and doubt the 6 speed is worth the points anyway.

I will add my $.02 to this.

My 94 has 30,000 original miles and has been turbo for about 20k. It has been through maybe 20-25 autocrosses, a couple trips to the drag strip, and about three years ago I started doing track days...I have done ~8 days so far. During the first lap of the first session of the first day this year, 3rd gear decided to grenade. So I did what everyone else does and sourced a 6-speed.

I have had two Miatas, both with 5-speeds and I had never driven a 6-speed until now. After my first track day with the new 6-speed I was not impressed. This thing SUCKS. 3rd and 5th both grind on fast, high RPM shifts. I have twice accidentally gone 6->2 instead of 6->4. I am using Amsoil MTG and the tranny I bought is supposed to be low mileage (~30k). Rear end is a 3.90. Previously I was using the 5 spd with a 4.10. I am seriously considering just buying a couple 5 speeds and just swapping them out as they pop. Of course this is really annoying if they decide to let go on the first session of the day!!

So I feel your pain...

Engine brace... probably doesn't fit so well if you have a turbo or stock air intake.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba55acddbf.jpg

That sheetmetal is stiff enough? That heim joint will just create a bending moment about the bolt head right?

YOUR ALTERNATOR?!

'Strayla. Everything is backwards :)

Its bolted right near the welded area. I figured if I break the bolt or start moving the sheetmetal I'll make a better bracket. So far so good.

The stock alternator weighed a ton and it was on the wrong side (RHD). It was replaced with a 50 amp suzuki alternator I grabbed from a wrecker for $30. It even came with a 4 rib pulley.

My long term plan is to fit a low mount rotrex where the stock alternator was. I think a c38 series will fit in there somewhere.

Wanted to circle back to this after more seat time. The answer to the original question is "me". The 6 speed sucks but in my opinion it can be overcome by experience. I have not money shifted the 4-5 in a few track days.

The elbo "up" technique helped me on the 4-5. I still wouldn't install this trans unless you needed it Due to hp. I think the 5 speed is relatively dummy proof. I wouldn't let someone without previous 6speed experience near the driver seat of my car at a track day.

I'll disagree with everyone because i'm contrary.

I'd be happy if every 5spd exploded in a ball of fire, never to be used again. Cannot stand those pieces of crap. Sure they shift smooth, but they're super vague, gearing drops are weird, and they're weak.

That said, i don't love the 6spd with the stock shifter, but i hate the height of the stock shifter anyways, so that's largely a wash between 5 and 6.

I have a 2000 with original 6spd. At 103k miles, it feels absolutely sublime with the MR tall/angled shifter and a Carbing High Grip. (I suspect the knob is part of why i don't have a 4-5 shift issue. The knob forces you to flat-palm forward into 5th.)

Agree with all of this except "install only for HP". The 6-speed ratios are superior on track so you will go faster with a 6-speed. If it's a dedicated track car AND you are in love with the 5-speed AND you never, ever need to go faster than ~115mph, you can approximate the ratios by using a 5-speed and 5.12:1 gears. The advantage is typically estimated at 0.5-1.0sec depending on the track.

The 5sp is so good that lots of folks are naturally going to be frustrated with the 6-speed. Slow down and get used to it and you can shift it plenty fast.

25 minutes of me shifting a 6-speed quickly:

What he said :) . I can change gear quickly in my 6 speed (12 000 miles this gearbox) . It´s just a matter off don´t "slam" gears . The 4th to 5th gear needs a litle finesse. In my opninion the Miata Roadster short shifter is good (i have it ) but not the "magical recipie" . ;)

So do you guys feel that a weighted (heavy) shift knob would be an advantage or disadvantage for the 6 speed?

Heavy knobs are good for powering through synchros.

I am using the MR tall/angled + factory knob + 949 Racing engine mounts + Energy Suspension diff bushings and I'm back to shift satisfaction levels equivalent to when I had a 5speed.

I seemed to grind a lot of gears with a delrin knob, made a 1.5 lb. Lead filled metal knob and the grinding stopped and the shift feel is much better. Does this mean I'm killing the syncros? I don't​ t really see how.

I'll also agree the ratios are better than the 5 speed and I can see how it's worth it for a small cut in lap time as well. I still don't know if I'd do the upgrade for the sub 150hp club I'm in vs other upgrades

I'm running the Miata roadster shifter with delrin knob along with upgraded engine and diff mounts. I had to follow the advice given--slow down and work on technique. Where I struggled was the higher speed corners where I'm shifting right at track out (pittrace turn 14, Watkins glen turn 5) or in traffic, off line, etc. Basically it was times where I had a lot of focus going on other things.

It's probably taken me 8-10 total hours of track time to get it (I'm a slow learner), but I'm back to shifting the 6 speed as fast as the 5 speed without having to think about it.... much. I don't like it but I can do it.

949 twin plate clutch made a HUGE difference to my shift speeds. Not the greatest for road use (metallic plates) and getting on the trailer but tolerable (just).

I struggled a little with the 4-5 shift. racing engine mounts and a little discipline

I ran the car in May without any shifting mishaps. I am slowly warming up to the 6 speed trans.

I swapped a 6 speed into my 93 auto and I love it.

ES diff bushings. MR short throw kit with stock height straight shifter. Ford motorcraft fluid. 3.9 rear. I don't know that it's a weighted knob per se, but it's a fairly heavy round billet knob. Was an eBay "JDM 50-60k" 6 speed.

I don't think I have any of the same issues people seem to have with reverse. It takes a lot of force to get past the 5/6 gate into the reverse gate so I am never going past the 5/6 gate unintentionally. And I've never had trouble with grinding any gears or reverse not engaging... I think the added resistance is in large part due to the stock height short shift kit. The ones with added length give more leverage so maybe that is part of it.

I only did one or two test drives with the car before I did the MR short shift kit, and I can say that I could not find 5th, but in retrospect I know that's also because I was doing far too much of a diagonal push than moving right and then straight up. Was also the first time I've driven a car with a manual trans past 3rd gear, so there's that as well.

Obviously have never driven a 5 speed as comparison, so maybe that helps? I am absolutely in love with the shift feel in my car though.

Your experience sounds like mine when my MR shifter was missing a bushing. I made the go-for-5-hit-3 several times and had to be super careful. Then I discovered I was missing that inner bushing that goes around the ball. Are you completely positive you have everything? There should be no vagueness when the shifter is correctly installed. Each gear, while not a rifle bolt, should be clear and positive and easy to find.

I don't think about my shifts at all now. There's no technique to remember or learn or force to become habit. I just shift and it works. It's not the best shifting trans ever, but it's quite acceptable even with 130k miles on it.