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Old 07-15-2013, 09:16 PM   #1
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Default ACL race bearings alternative

ACL is B/O 6 to 8 weeks on standard size race bearings.

Don't want to cheap this part and go clevite with forged internals... make no sense to me.

If you know someone, some shop or anyone who got a set willing to help me out, I'm ready to buy.

I'm rebuilding an engine that lasted 7 years of turbo (low boost) track abuse and going N/A with a new project in mind. I'm waiting for 949 racing 11:1 supertech, manley rods and RB header.

That's why I wanted ACL race for the track bitch...... insurance and enduro build / slow TT car
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:37 PM   #2
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Can't wait to see that thing come to life! Hope you find the right parts!

Ben
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:37 PM   #3
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What would a full set, Rods, Mains and thrust bearing be worth to ya? LOL
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:54 PM   #4
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Tell me how much you need for it......
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigben View Post
Can't wait to see that thing come to life! Hope you find the right parts!

Ben
Let me play in CSP with you guys... cage is more heavy than some dash and plastic trim...
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:09 PM   #6
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Let me make sure I still have them. I know I bought two sets when I built my motor. If I have them...$170 and they are yours.....if not.....I'll call a few people.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:28 PM   #7
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Let me make sure I still have them. I know I bought two sets when I built my motor. If I have them...$170 and they are yours.....if not.....I'll call a few people.
Wow that could be perfect, find them, Paypal's ready... thank you very much !
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:39 PM   #8
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Ebay is where I found mine.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:50 PM   #9
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Bad news first. I only have a partial set. I was reminded of an install incident which resulted in the need to use one of the Main bearing upper shells from my "spare set" (Part of the reason I bought two sets I guess). I have set a few messages to friends on facebook for you. I will let you know what I find.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:02 PM   #10
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I really hate ebay regarding track bitch parts... so many counterfeit chinese ****...

Well thank you for looking and sending messages to help me out. At least you seem to have rod and thrust washer. That could be a good start.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:29 AM   #11
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Clevite used to be good ****. What happened?
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:17 AM   #12
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Probably really good for street use but I don't want to bomb this engine because I saved 50$ or so, stupid move for a track bitch IMO
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
Clevite used to be good ****. What happened?
Thats been a question in the back of my mind for a while. Before miata's I used to always hear, "building a motor? clevite makes the best bearings you can buy." Maybe its just a domestic thing.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:24 PM   #14
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I got a rebuild kit from these guys with ACL race bearings 2 years ago. Head Gasket Set items in Mizumo Auto Engine Parts Honda Toyota Lexus Nissan Car store on eBay!

Best Ebay customer service I have ever dealt with. Even took back wrong size pistons (my mistake) even after I had lubed them all up and installed them. I could not find the ACL race bearings in their current listings, but if you can message them they more than likely can hook you up. They did a custom listing for me based on the parts I needed and should work for you. As for counterfit parts, the items I ordered were genuine ACL bearings.
I hope this helps.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:53 PM   #15
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All the big hp drag motors had clevite bearings, but that was also 15yrs ago when my mother worked at race engine shop.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:10 PM   #16
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ACL (and other) 'race' stuff is steel with a thin soft upper layer. Normal (OEM, Clevite non-'race') bearings are tri-metal, meaning mostly softer material. They (non 'race' bearings) more forgiving of trash in the oil, but ACLs are much harder and will take abuse (detonation, light oil starvation) better. Except you shouldn't be detonating, and you should be starving for oil, and it's VERY unlikely that you're making enough power to pound soft bearings out on cylinder pressure alone.

I would have no problem at all putting Clevites in a track day car build.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:37 PM   #17
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Well main bearings STD size seems to be pretty hard to find. Anyone have a spare lying around so I could buy TNTuba almost complete kit ?
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
ACL (and other) 'race' stuff is steel with a thin soft upper layer. Normal (OEM, Clevite non-'race') bearings are tri-metal, meaning mostly softer material. They (non 'race' bearings) more forgiving of trash in the oil, but ACLs are much harder and will take abuse (detonation, light oil starvation) better. Except you shouldn't be detonating, and you should be starving for oil, and it's VERY unlikely that you're making enough power to pound soft bearings out on cylinder pressure alone.

I would have no problem at all putting Clevites in a track day car build.
In theory, yes.

In practice most guys don't change their oil often enough, use good enough oil or have enough oil cooler. Add downshifting too soon in braking zones and you have the potential for premature bearing wear/failure. We put ACL Race bearings in everything. The only other bearing we have used are King but that's sort of a fall back if we can't source ACL's.

If you are building from scratch specifically for a track car, be patient and keep hunting for ACL's.
Also

Install a big *** Setrab 900 series with -10 lines and a tstat
Use either good oil or change it frequently
Wait a fraction before letting out the clutch in braking zones
Don't money shift (I know it makes a cool sound and all..)

I'm still working on the money shift part

I seem to recall Andrew (Trackspeed) talking about putting together a DIY oil cooler kits with all the right parts.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:48 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
I seem to recall Andrew (Trackspeed) talking about putting together a DIY oil cooler kits with all the right parts.
Finally got around to this. It'll be on our new website once that's up and running, but just PM me for now.

There's no one "correct" place to put the cooler, so the best solution is to just send you a bunch of line and fittings and have you decide exactly where to mount the cooler. N/A cars should put it in direct airflow in front of the radiator. Turbo cars should put it above the intercooler. Turbo cars with A/C should get creative.

Parts list:
  • Mocal sandwich plate with 180* T-stat, 1/2"BSP to -10AN adapters, and proper Dowty seals
  • 10ft of Setrab -10AN line
  • two Setrab -10AN male 90deg hose ends (sandwich plate side)
  • two Setrab -10AN M22 male 90deg hose ends (cooler side)
  • Setrab 6-series cooler with proper Setrab-specific rubber isolated mounting bracket

Three options for cooler size:

10-row for N/A cars in direct airflow (or ducted). $400
16-row for turbo cars in direct/ducted airflow. $430
25-row for those individuals with questionable judgement. $475

10 row in front, 25 in back

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Last edited by Savington; 07-17-2013 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:13 PM   #20
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It won't be me who will complain if you come in CSP! I'm not in the race for the championship anyway...for this year...hehe
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