I was wrong, I'd have two points left over, not three. Fuck.
No, no flat powerband for me unfortunately. Just a pleb making 140 at peak and 110 at 5k. This is east side regional competition, nothing too hardcore. |
Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1243232)
I was wrong, I'd have two points left over, not three. Fuck.
No, no flat powerband for me unfortunately. Just a pleb making 140 at peak and 110 at 5k. This is east side regional competition, nothing too hardcore. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1243247)
If it is an NA, bump steer. Might not seem important but it increase mean average grip on long bumpy turns. You have to look at A/B data to see it. or know your exit speeds everywhere.
I fucked up my points transferring from D to E. Same setup puts me 22 points with TTE* vs 19 for TTD*, assuming my base tire is in fact 235 for TTE* (still waiting on word from Greg). I need to shave one point to be TTE legal. Right now the set up is: *- 7 points 205 R7s (two heat cycles, fresh)- 3 points 4.1 Torsen (no Giken budget)- 3 points Dampers- 3 points Springs- 2 points Roll bars- 2 points 949 11.75" front brakes and m-tuned 11" rear brakes- 2 points =22 points My springs are 12/7kg/mm, should probably be stiffer. I have a 4.3 open diff sitting in a carrier in my garage. I'm thinking of swapping that in and keeping my sway points and brake points. I know my stock brakes would be fine, but I'm short on prep time and it seems easier to swap carriers than do all that other stuff, plus sways are kind of important with my spring set up. |
Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1243255)
It's an NA, and oh yes, it suffers from typical NA bump steer woes. This is for Lime Rock, track and curbing are decently smooth. If WGI was going to be open again this season, I'd address that.
I fucked up my points transferring from D to E. Same setup puts me 22 points with TTE* vs 19 for TTD*, assuming my base tire is in fact 235 for TTE* (still waiting on word from Greg). I need to shave one point to be TTE legal. Right now the set up is: *- 7 points 205 R7s (two heat cycles, fresh)- 3 points 4.1 Torsen (no Giken budget)- 3 points Dampers- 3 points Springs- 2 points Roll bars- 2 points 949 11.75" front brakes and m-tuned 11" rear brakes- 2 points =22 points My springs are 12/7kg/mm, should probably be stiffer. I have a 4.3 open diff sitting in a carrier in my garage. I'm thinking of swapping that in and keeping my sway points and brake points. I know my stock brakes would be fine, but I'm short on prep time and it seems easier to swap carriers than do all that other stuff, plus sways are kind of important with my spring set up. |
If you have points for sway bars, it makes for a car that's more versatile, easier to drive and setup. But a stock sway bar setup can be fast too. Lots of front spring (900-1100) and about the same rear. Our fastest ever PTE car (2013 rules) ran stock NB bars and 1000/400#.
|
^I agree with both of you, stiffer springs and stock brakes are the better option, but different springs aren't an option for next weekend. I won't have time to get them or install them.
I'm asking what will be faster on a 60 second, relatively smooth track (Lime Rock Park) using R7s: Option #1- stock sways with current springs (670/390) plus 4.1 Torsen diff Option #2- 1.125" Race front sway with current springs plus 4.3 open I need to either ditch my brakes and my sway bars or just my LSD. |
Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1243271)
^I agree with both of you, stiffer springs and stock brakes are the better option, but different springs aren't an option for next weekend. I won't have time to get them or install them.
I'm asking what will be faster on a 60 second, relatively smooth track (Lime Rock Park) using R7s: Option #1- stock sways with current springs (670/390) plus 4.1 Torsen diff Option #2- 1.125" Race front sway with current springs plus 4.3 open I need to either ditch my brakes and my sway bars or just my LSD. Gearing wins. Better yet, Kia Sportage 4.77 # 0K014-27-110 Don't underestimate the value of gearing, particularly if you don't have a Kansas relief map powerband. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1243227)
If you don't already have a Torsen, then an OS Giken. If you do already have a Torsen but don't have an engine that makes within 5whp of peak power over a 3000rpm powerband, then a 6 speed.
Interesting. So assuming the engine doesn't make within 5whp of peak over 3000 rpms, you're saying: OS Giken > 6 SPD > Torsen Correct? |
Originally Posted by ericwh
(Post 1243300)
Interesting. So assuming the engine doesn't make within 5whp of peak over 3000 rpms, you're saying:
OS Giken > 6 SPD > Torsen Correct? Diff is a different question. I won 2012 NASA nationals at Mid Ohio with an MSM Torsen (classed as an MSM). It sucked. In my video you can hear lots of wheel spin. Tuned OSG would have been worth probably .5s there. Some tracks it can be .7s. Ideally you have both a tuned OSG (not default OSG tuning) and either 4.77 or 4.875. On some tracks, such a diff is worth well over 1s. |
I just never considered the trade-off of open diff with 6-spd vs torsen with 5-spd... Thought that's what you were suggesting.
EDIT: assuming shortened rear end ratio in either case. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1243286)
2
Gearing wins. Better yet, Kia Sportage 4.77 # 0K014-27-110 Don't underestimate the value of gearing, particularly if you don't have a Kansas relief map powerband. |
Originally Posted by Greg
Good catch. Nope--typo---correction sent.
|
a
Edit: Sorry, my one year old posted this. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1197641)
How to win in PTE:
4a. Dyno class cars, request PTE* base classing and use the +7 to add power and hope that nobody in your region was smart enough to start with an NB1 in the first place 5. Read the zero-point mods section, and do them all. Then read it again and do some more of them You are doing it wrong if: -you take points for aero -your car weighs less than 2400lbs (2500lbs? 2600lbs?) -you can points-class your car and you are dyno-classed tte/pte base is 130whp/2400lbs Ok so no aero, bulk up, not sure what is meant by the points reclass/dyno reclass. Finally anyone know where I can peak through the freebee points section? |
Originally Posted by blkmkiii
(Post 1244423)
Finally anyone know where I can peak through the freebee points section?
Holy shit dude, have you even read the rules? |
Originally Posted by blkmkiii
(Post 1244423)
tte/pte base is 130whp/2400lbs
Ok so no aero, bulk up, not sure what is meant by the points reclass/dyno reclass. Finally anyone know where I can peak through the freebee points section? If you read it, should answer all your questions. If not, read it again. |
Originally Posted by FatKao
(Post 1244434)
Holy shit dude, have you even read the rules?
Originally Posted by Arca_ex
(Post 1244443)
Umm... the rule book? lol
If you read it, should answer all your questions. If not, read it again. |
Originally Posted by blkmkiii
(Post 1244471)
You guys are the best, thank you so much for your assistance!!! Have a wonderful afternoon.
What do you want us to do, go to the rulebook for you and copy/paste the entire free points section? It's right here: https://nasaproracing.com/rules |
Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1243785)
Oh well- open diff it is.
|
Think its the 245 base size is the typo.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:06 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands