mcfandango

iTrader: (1)

Come to the Texas Tour, as long as it stays at the A&M Riverside Annex. It is just about as close to the surface at Lincoln as you can get. Tire wear is a little worse and the grip is a little lower at A&M. The lower grip seems mainly due to dirt and some weird algae growing in low spots.

I'm at the typical 700/450. I'm thinking 850/550. Very similar F/R ratio. Haven't run all the numbers yet though. My replaceable front splitter was destroyed on the East course. We are guessing on the entry to the rear slalom. The finish on the West course ripped the rubber trim strip off.



The entire front bumper is going to get redesigned for next season. Right now I have jack up, get under the car and bolt the current design on.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm 850/500 but its pushy as **** on sticker hoosiers, but becomes just about perfect over 80 runs. Its ok on stickers with the .625/.065 rear bar I built. I'm thinking about 1000/650 and drop to 600 in the rear once the tires wear.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

We took home 1st in the 2014 Holley LS fest auto x top 5 shootout. 400 cars were registered for that event. I'm not sure how many where in the autocross..

mcfandango

iTrader: (1)

No rear bar. Front is a VERY old FM 90-93 solid bar on stiff. My car was working awesome. No complaints about handling on the Avons (A11 21.7-10.5 15s). Car seemed to work reasonably well on those cheap *** (read crap) American Racers. People swore the diff was busted on sweeper exits. Worthless tires. Aero is a crappy knock off APR CF foil and a completely home built front bumper/splitter.

I'm not interested in changing setup as tires age. You sir, are insane.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

My car just shifts more and more to oversteer as the tires age till its crappy. Right now I either have an undrivable push with stickers until the magic wears off, or its one wheel peal locally. I'm working on an easier setup. Right now, its attach rear bar if tires = good, disconnect if tires = crap.

mcfandango

iTrader: (1)

I went through 3 different rear springs and 2 different front springs this year until this combo seemed to work well with the aero. As well as what seemed like 100 different ride heights. Although those spats or endplates or whatever on the front with the canards were what finally solved the "I wish this thing had just a little more front end grip".

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I honestly thing that once I get the right spring setup I wont have to play with the bars and it'll be ok all the time without having to touch it, or maybe put the front bar on stiff at worse as the tires age.

mcfandango

iTrader: (1)

Are you flipping the tires on the rear and/or rotating them somewhere in the middle of the cycle? That helps a bunch on the bias ply slicks I've been running for a while. Never seemed necessary with A6s because the "fun" was all used up long before the wear indicated a need to move them around. But then again the car was no where near as powerful or setup back then. It was still technically a "street driven" car.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I try to flip the A6s before the groove of death shows up and I mix them all around as wear dicktates. After a while I get to the point where I just pick the tire with the most meat and put it as the outside front.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

You are looking in the wrong place to fix your push

FrankL

You missed the point where I said they were on the front already.

If your car is balanced on stickers then run them. I wouldn't changed setup on the car as the tires wear.

FrankL

You know what our car does on 130 run Hoosiers? Push. Those tires are for locals only. And we drive around it.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

My car does nothing on 130 run tires

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I've still got 1/3 of the tread left at 140 runs. Its silly, now that I have poly bushings (no more bushing flex raping an pillaging the front outer shoulder) and a good alignment the things just dont wear all that much. If I wanted to I could probably make a set last 200 runs before cording by leaving the tire pressures closer to the tire saving range rather than the fast range.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

If you have poly bushings.....you have bushing flex.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but its an order of magnitude less than the rubber ones. It was like $140 for a set of poly bushings to save a set of $1200 tires while I work on spending $1200 on sphericals.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

How do you get an erection if you have all that flex? Even my Escort doesn't run poly, bro.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You dont understand how much better it is than rubber. Rubber actually flexed enough to noticably change dynamic camber, not so much with poly. its no where near as good as it will be with sphericals but holy ***** it was cheap and easy.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I do understand. I have poly on all the cars except for the Escort and NA, actually. Even the Cherokee.

FrankL

This makes no sense. Why run Hoosiers if you aren't trying to be fast? Out last set had grooves in them still at 140 but they were corded. 60-70 runs on Blytheville concrete.