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Old 07-23-2013, 11:26 AM   #21
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Lol, I love his reaction to the car. I really want solo storm :(

I talked to the guy a little more about the numbness, he actually admits his STS car(750/425) felt the same way when he tested out some 205 rivals, lol.
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:35 AM   #22
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I'm not terribly thrilled with solo storm I really wish I had waited another month before getting it because Autosport Labs: RaceCapture/Pro Telemetry and Lap Timer | Megajolt Programmable Ignition came out about a month after I bought it, and after buying a mount and a GPS receiver there wasnt a large price difference. Of course I'd have to buy a separate video camera and overlaying the data on the video wouldnt be as easy.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:03 PM   #23
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Yep, I'm much more interested in the Race Capture Pro. I'd much rather pull RPM, Speed and Throttle Position and integrate that with my video, than what GPS can give me. I have an old MaxQData and it was ok, but not spectacular. Video + throttle seems to give a better indication of what's really going on.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flier129 View Post
I'm always amazed when I see DP cars. So wide, so light, and they put down insane n/a power. Will you be going with a VVT engine on yours?
DP weight limit w/1.8L is 1924 lbs. It would be awesome to have a 1.6 like this in a 16xx lb Miata.

I already had a built 1.8L when I decided to chop the A-pillars and go DP. My car has Penske shocks, Delrin bushings, OSG Diff, is rear weight biased and at the weight limit with ballast. I PAX in the top five, straight time in the top 10 regularly in our SFR SCCA events (180-220 participants, lots of Nat. Champs). More often than not, the car is fastest outright of all production based cars (and F125, AM & BM formula cars regularly bested). All this and the motor is not fully prepped and I'm on A6 Hoosiers (275/35 R15). Avons will make the car amazing.

Not trying to toot my horn as much as wanting more folks to choose this DP path: there are too few of us, and its probably one of the best bang for the buck "Prepared" class cars.

Last edited by Ski_Lover; 07-26-2013 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #25
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Craig,
According to the rulebook, you're at 1908 (1.06 *1800cc) unless I'm mistaken. I know it's not much, but every pound counts and all that.


Also, I'm soo glad I'm not ready to drop in a real motor yet, otherwise that would be a VERY tempting motor!


Yep, DP is a complete hoot. I'm still having motor tuning issues. (mostly due to not being able to get to the dyno yet to really hash the tune out). Even with those issues the car is ridiculous fun and I'll should be fighting for the fastest non kart for only $2500-$3000(and many many hours) invested, with basic hand tools.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:37 PM   #26
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That's an insane 1.6 lol. I wonder how many hours you can get on it? Or I suppose you would do it by number of runs with auto-x.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:00 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpwalsh View Post
Craig,
According to the rulebook, you're at 1908 (1.06 *1800cc) unless I'm mistaken. I know it's not much, but every pound counts and all that.


Also, I'm soo glad I'm not ready to drop in a real motor yet, otherwise that would be a VERY tempting motor!


Yep, DP is a complete hoot. I'm still having motor tuning issues. (mostly due to not being able to get to the dyno yet to really hash the tune out). Even with those issues the car is ridiculous fun and I'll should be fighting for the fastest non kart for only $2500-$3000(and many many hours) invested, with basic hand tools.

DP weight Weight formulas (lbs):
Engines with displacement less than or equal to 1667cc: 1.06 x displacement (cc)
Engines with displacement greater than 1667cc: 0.91 x displacement (cc) plus 250 lbs
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:16 PM   #28
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Yep, and before that is
Quote:
Minimum weights are determined by engine displacement. Increases in
engine displacement resulting from legal overbore are not considered
in these calculations.
and the miata listing is this:
Quote:
Mazda
MX-5 Miata (1.6L & 1.8L, non-turbo) (1990-2005)

I believe this means that we need to use 1600 and 1800 as our engine sizes.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flier129 View Post
That's an insane 1.6 lol. I wonder how many hours you can get on it? Or I suppose you would do it by number of runs with auto-x.
I'd probably "overhaul" that motor every year and a half or ~15-20 events. I'd bet it's a 10 hour motor.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:01 PM   #30
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I'm fairly certain the official displacement considered for the Miata 1.6L is 1597 cc, and the 1.8L is 1840 cc.

So a 1.6 weight limit is 1693 lbs, and a 1.8 is 1924 lbs.

There's a web app for that here.
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:10 PM   #31
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I think the official numbers are 1600 and 1800. I'll try and get the exact line out of the rulebook that mentions to use "listed engine displacement" or something along those lines tonight. <shrug> I could be entirely wrong, but I'll take those 3lbs if I am.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #32
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XP so you can boost it. You're not gonna beat the power to weight ratio available there.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:43 AM   #33
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No doubt XP's a great path for a TTOD car, and I must admit I've given it some thought. I've had zero motor or drive train issues but could definately use another 100 hp :-). On the other hand I've seen so much $hit blow up in XP (and Mod classes), I'm really not interested in ever having a motor and drive train that's so over stressed. The other issue I have with XP is the weight limit is so low that most examples I've seen would not be safe for the track, doors are mere skins, use of roll bars rather than cages, lack of other safety gear,...yes XP's are single purpose cars, but I'm happy my car is in most aspects an E-Production Road race car that just happens to be set up for DP.

Given how fast CSP & DP Miatas are, I think some of my XP friends could actually go faster if they de-tuned to under 300 whp (and save a LOT of headaches). IMHO an AutoX Miata should be devastating enough at 250-275 HP, in the sweet spot optimizing performance and reliability.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:50 AM   #34
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Quote:
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This was my tour co-driver's first run in the car, he'd been driving HS on street tires all year (aka the slowest possible class). I think it was a 62.5 + every apex cone on the course.

vid

My fast run didnt get recorded I think this was my fastest that got recorded and the only time I locked up the fronts trail braking.

vid



On the springs. 800/550 would be silly on street tires. Much too rear biased and IMO too stiff for streets to work at a-x speeds. I ran streets with 840/506 once, and that was enough the car just didnt feel good and it was much easier to slide than with the 650/400 setup I was running on the xidas.

looks like a fun course. looks like you locked the rears up and counter steered...but I am not sure.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:14 PM   #35
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Default Street Touring vs. Street Prepared question

I'm moving more into Solo racing and one of the things I'm about to install is a MS2 (Reverant built). The plan is/was to replace the stock ECU.

Does this negate running the car in Street Touring class? I see section 14.1.F (allowable mods) mentions "piggyback" alternate ECU.

It also mentions "stock sensors" but later on allows "fuel controls" to be non-stock (or so as I read the rules).

Or, does this now mean the car needs to be in Street Prepared?

Probably doesn't matter as I'm not experienced enough to be competitive in either yet But, given the other mods that have been done Street Touring is where it fits currently.

Just asking and thanks.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bahurd View Post
I'm moving more into Solo racing and one of the things I'm about to install is a MS2 (Reverant built). The plan is/was to replace the stock ECU.

Does this negate running the car in Street Touring class? I see section 14.1.F (allowable mods) mentions "piggyback" alternate ECU.

It also mentions "stock sensors" but later on allows "fuel controls" to be non-stock (or so as I read the rules).

Or, does this now mean the car needs to be in Street Prepared?

Probably doesn't matter as I'm not experienced enough to be competitive in either yet But, given the other mods that have been done Street Touring is where it fits currently.

Just asking and thanks.
You need it setup as a parallel install and you need to use the MAF to tune. Both of these things as possible with an MS built by reverant.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #37
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Default Street Touring vs. Street Prepared

Quote:
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You need it setup as a parallel install and you need to use the MAF to tune. Both of these things as possible with an MS built by reverant.
That's the way I read it. PITA though to have to set it up that way. Can you just add a Boomslang and snip the stock ECU outputs (I have one unused from a prior project)?

Or is it even worth doing (parallel) and just take the bump in class (standalone)?

Thanks for the input...
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:58 PM   #38
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Well how serious are you? If you're just out there to drive the car and have fun, just go into street prepared.

Technically according to the rules you really only need the stock ecu hooked up enough that the OBDII code reader works. But you still can only use stock sensors.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Well how serious are you? If you're just out there to drive the car and have fun, just go into street prepared.

Technically according to the rules you really only need the stock ecu hooked up enough that the OBDII code reader works. But you still can only use stock sensors.
Well, if I was that serious I'd be much quicker than I am.

As I read the Street Prepared rules the stock ECU can be replaced outright as well as the sensors (MAF). Or am I misreading them?
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:49 PM   #40
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Yes the standard MS install that ditches the maf and stock ecu is legal in SP.

Last edited by Leafy; 08-06-2013 at 09:00 PM.
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