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Old 05-09-2011, 04:51 PM   #1
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Default Boosted Track Cars: Cooling setups

I think we need a thread that gathers all the cooling setups used on the track by those with boosted miatas for others to reference when planning their build or planning to upgrade; what is your setup and how well does it work or does it not work? Hopefully we can get a lot of info in one place and make it a sticky! This combined with the reliability thread that covers hot-side hardware should pretty much cover building a reliable track miata.

This is an all-encompassing "cooling" category: air, water, oil

Copying the idea of Emilio's race seat installs thread on m.net.

Please use the following template and try to include as much info as possible:

Post title: (Turbo or Supercharger) - (Horsepower)
___________

Fuel: (type and octane, additives?)
Intercooler: (brand, dimensions)
Water/Meth injection: (yes/no, % meth, kit/DIY)

Water: (% mix, straight h2o, water wetter)
Radiator: (brand and size)
Fans: (how many, brand, shrouding?)
Coolant bypass: (yes/no, kit/DIY)

Oil: (brand, weight)
Oil cooler: (kit/DIY, core size)

Ducting: (yes/no, details)
Bumper opening modification: (enlarged/reduced)
Heat extraction: (extraction hood?)

Real-world Results on track: (length of sessions, ambient air temp, IAT, h2o temp, oil temp)
Notes: (reliable?, any issues, do you have to use the fans on track, did you have to pull timing to avoid pinging once heatsoaked, etc.)

___________________
Adding images
If we can keep it to one or two pics per post, let's try to do that. A pic of the front of the car without the bumper to show sizes of heat exchangers and placement as well as ducting would be good.
If you have images hosted somewhere you can inline link them here easily. Or, you can upload from your computer as an attachment.

Please keep the thread on-topic as a place to document individual's setups and their overall effectiveness on the race track.

Last edited by ThePass; 05-09-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:04 PM   #2
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I'll start

Upgraded Greddy Turbo kit - 185 whp / 180 ft-lbs @ 7psi
___________

Fuel: regular ol' 91, no additives
Intercooler: CXRacing 12x18x3"
Water/Meth injection: no

Water: 80% water, 20% antifreeze, 1 bottle Redline water wetter
Radiator: Koyo 37mm aluminum
Fans: Stock fans w/ stock shrouds, wired to switches on dash
Coolant bypass: no

Oil: Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic
Oil cooler: DIY - Mocal sandwich, Tru-cool 24-row 11x5.75.1.5" oil cooler

Ducting: Yes - enclosed from bumper mouth to factory plastic undertray
Bumper opening modification: normal
Heat extraction: Yes - DIY dremel-cut vents in hood.

Real-world Results on track: 20 minute sessions @ Buttonwillow, 85* ambient, Water 210*, Oil 210* solid from beginning to end.
Notes: So far so good. Never saw the temps rise past 210. Big IC for my power level allows me to use 91, never ever have to use the fans on the track - only switch them on in the pits after session.

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Hood modifications: Heat extraction behind radiator. The scoop in the headlight lid dumps straight onto the intake, the vent behind that vents any un-inhaled air back out of the engine bay so it doesn't interfere with the through the engine bay air flow:
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Last edited by ThePass; 05-11-2011 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:14 PM   #3
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Default Turbo 230whp ish

Turbo: molested greddy 15g
Fuel: 91 pump
Intercooler: Starion
Water/Meth injection: no

Water: 70/30 water antifreeze mix
Radiator: Ebay CX Racing
Fans: Single stock with stock shrouding
Water bypass: No. Thermostat has been gutted, heater bypassed.

Oil: Shell rotella synthetic
Oil cooler: Not currently, previous build had one, I still highly recommended it.

Ducting: yes, minor
Bumper opening modification: No. The hood has been cut between the tops of the headlights for air extraction.

Real-world Results on track: 20 minute session 4 seconds under spec record with no issues. 5000ft elevation.


Notes: No A/C. Water does not heat up unless left at idle for a long time or on track. The stock gauge never goes more than a quarter warm unless on track. Never goes past half on the stock guage on track. The tires overheat long before the water.



Some photos of the hack job hood.

http://racingsouthwest.com/forums/in..._image&id=8936

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/1Il/IMGP0434.jpg

Last edited by BenR; 05-11-2011 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Added photos
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #4
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Post title: T3 Turbo, [email protected]

Fuel: 93
Intercooler: OBX 21x7x2.75 core
Water/Meth injection: NO
Water: Distilled H20 + water wetter
Radiator: Godspeed 2xpass
Fans: Dual 12" temp sensor on or bypass manual switch
Coolant bypass: M-Tuned, (4)1/4" holes added to T-stat
Oil: Rotella 5-40syn
Oil cooler: 25 Row CXracing
Ducting: Removed+ducted bumper turn lamps to oil cooler, radiator, and intake filter
Bumper opening modification: Modded oem lip for direct radiator cooling (center 2) and brake (outer 2)
Heat extraction: custom louvered hood
Real-world Results on track: several 30min sessions @ 120F track temps, 95-100F ambient - never got past 1/2 way on factory gauge
Notes: TOO much cooling when low ambients (60F or lower) - have to block off 1/2 radiator to keep coolant temps up.

This is what it looks like behind the mat - from passenger well. Oil cooler to upper right, ducted incoming air from modded lip spoiler holes under the intercooler directly to radiator.

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Driver's well capped off...

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Vented hood

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Last edited by GeneSplicer; 05-10-2011 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:39 PM   #5
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Great replies so far! Added heat extraction hood to the list, had forgotten about that. Try to be sure to include intercooler size - important for someone planning a track setup.
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:54 PM   #6
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Upgraded Greddy Turbo kit - unknown whp / unknown ft-lbs @ 10psi
___________

Fuel: Premium (93?), no additives
Intercooler: CXRacing 18x12x3" core
Water/Meth injection: no

Water: 60% water, 40% antifreeze
Radiator: Mishimoto 52mm
Fans: Stock fans w/ stock shrouds, wired to switch on dash
Coolant reroute: DIY w/1.6 neck on back, GM 1 piece hose to front.

Oil: Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic
Oil cooler: DIY - Ebay sandwich, Tru-cool 24-row 11x5.75.1.5" oil cooler

Ducting: All stock for now
Bumper opening modification: 3"x~12" in front of oil cooler
Heat extraction: None, mini cooper scoop in hood is waiting install

Real-world Results on track: Last time I had bandaids, 105* ambient, 100% water (boiled)*, leaky reroute, and other issues. Track day on 6/10 will hopefully give me a better idea. I now have MS, COPs, probably 70* ambient, and the above leak free setup.

*boiling water due to using Royal Purple's "water wetter" which is not like the real water wetter by Red Line. It doesn't raise the boiling point like Red Line's product, hence the boiling.

Hole in bumper:

Last edited by curly; 05-09-2011 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:18 AM   #7
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Post title: JRSC M45 supercharger - 167whp
___________

Fuel: 98 RON
Intercooler: JR water to air
Water/Meth injection: no

Water: distilled water with one bottle of Castrol rust inhibitor
Radiator: Cooling Pro 40mm alloy
Fans: 2, stock, LOTS of shrouding
Coolant bypass: yes, MX-5 Plus spacer with M-Tuned hose

Oil: Castrol Edge 0w40
Oil cooler: stock oil to water

Ducting: LOTS of ducting, no air can pass anywhere without going through radiator
Bumper opening modification: no
Heat extraction: no

Real-world Results on track: 15 minutes approx, 35c, IAT 90c max, oil temp 90c max
Notes: IATs got heatsoaked towards end of sessions but Adaptronic tuned to pull timing

Honestly biggest gain from shrouding and ducting, do this first!!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:36 AM   #8
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Excellent thread, subscribing. I'd love to see some more pictures of ducting around the radiator. Genesplicer, that first pic looks great, what did you use to close up the sides?
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:40 PM   #9
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Nice idea for a thread... Might be a good idea if you post a pic of how your hood/bumper was modified to see what seems to be working the best as well. Just a thought... Still have to have a hood built for mine so any time saved would be much appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:52 PM   #10
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Last year with my 1.6 2871R setup:

Fuel: 91 pump
Intercooler: jdm 24x2.5x 6 standard mounted fmic
Water/Meth injection: no

Water: 1 bottle redline water wetter, 95% water, 5% coolant
Radiator: mishimoto
Fans: stock rad fan (1) and oem shroud cut to fit fmic
Coolant bypass: No

Oil: Amsoil 10w-30
Oil cooler: no

Ducting: factory underbody


Real-world Results on track: autoX and one drift event. worked great... no logs of this though.
Notes: installed low temp (160-170 degree) thermostat and oem under duct after overheating problems, then the guage didnt move all day.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdexta View Post
what did you use to close up the sides?
I used PVC bathtub/shower liner from home depot - worked great and still holding up. Added pic to 1st post to view behind the mat..
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:52 PM   #12
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Post title: Turbo - Garrett GT2871R .86 A/R - 350whp @ 17psi
___________

Fuel: E85
Intercooler: Precision 600hp (31x8x3.5")
Water/Meth injection: No

Water: Straight distilled, 1 bottle Redline Water Wetter
Radiator: Trackspeed Engineering 76mm dual-row
Fans: Single 14" SPAL curved-blade, no shrouding
Coolant bypass: Yes, DIY, gutted thermostat, heater core delete

Oil: RotellaT 15w40
Oil cooler: 2nd gen Rx7 oil cooler, Mocal sandwich plate, -10AN lines

Ducting: Fully ducted.
-Bumper opening is split to two chambers
-Upper chamber bypasses intercooler and feeds into top half of radiator only.
-Lower chamber feeds intercooler, then feeds bottom half of radiator only.
-Chambered duct behind intercooler so radiator-only air cannot backfeed the IC from the rear

Bumper opening modification: RB TypeII nose, mouth opening reduced, auxiliary ducts covered
Heat extraction: Rharris "cooper scooper" hood

Real-world Results on track: 20-25 minute sessions, 100*F+ temps, 200-205*F water temps, 240*F oil temps, IATs are ambient+15F with horrible intake placement
Notes: Fan runs all the time. Stone reliable. Remove any one part of it (radiator, sheetmetal ducting, oil cooler, vented hood) and I bet it would go to ****.

Pic of second chamber. IC angle is crap and needs to get fixed someday.

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Pic of front mouth w/o side ducts blocked and rharris hood.

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Ducting is crucial crucial crucial. There's no way this car would stay cool on track without the extensive airflow management it's got. With the baller radiator and baller ducting, though, I haven't had to cut a session short from overheating in a very long time.
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:53 AM   #13
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Same here, subscribing. I'll need to duct eventually for when I go turbo.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:34 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
I used PVC bathtub/shower liner from home depot - worked great and still holding up. Added pic to 1st post to view behind the mat..
That is a winning idea right there. Well done. I am going to look for that stuff next time I am at Lowes Racing Supply.

I do not have a boosted car but an LS1 conversion. There are similar issues with cooling due to the increase in power but the specifics are different so I'll stay out of this one except for a general comment. Assuming the cooling system components (radiator, IC, oil cooler) are already decent, the three main things you need are ducting, ducting, and ducting, followed by extraction, and, oh yeah I almost forgot, extraction.

Ducting raises the pressure in front of the heat exchangers, and extraction lowers the pressure behind them. The larger the pressure differential across the heat exchangers is, the more air flow you will get through the heat exchangers and the better the cooling will be. My biggest improvements in cooling performance have come from ducting and extraction. All of the flow coming in through the front is ducted through the radiator and the oil cooler. I have a Carbontrix extractor scoop on the hood and I think I'll be adding some additional louvers soon.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:07 PM   #15
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GeneSplicer;

I really like your setup, I'd like to try and duplicate this best I can. Do you cap the passenger well as well?

I need to get a front lip..

Edit- Do you have a picture of above around the hood latch? I assume you use the same stuff but I'd love to see it.

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 05-11-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:28 PM   #16
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Here - Skip to pages 7-8 (w/full browser window) for the ducting. It's all there....

Ducting pics
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:40 PM   #17
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Genesplicer I want to make sweet love to your hood.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:47 PM   #18
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I will add that increasing frontal area is not the right way to go under any circumstances. With the right components and proper airflow management, you should be reducing frontal opening areas, not increasing them.

I'll be redoing the front section of my ducting for aesthetics, as well as to further pinch off the mouth opening for aerodynamic gains.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:46 PM   #19
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I wish there was that 'perfect' front clip that would work both cooling and aero-wise with 225+ tires. I remember the aero thread back when. I'm not hurting for cooling, that's for sure, but now getting into TT, the aero (or the lack of) is really kicking my ***.

Sav - you have about the best setup I've seen thus far staying with a modded oem clip (oops - closer look reveils RB2 clip). We needs some close-ups...

Last edited by GeneSplicer; 05-11-2011 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:19 PM   #20
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N/A, Approx 180 hp
___________

Fuel: Pump gas


Water: straight one bottle water wetter
Radiator: stock
Fans: one stock
Coolant bypass: reversed flow (enters cyl head first)
Oil: 20W-50
Oil cooler: none

Ducting: none
Bumper opening modification: stock
Heat extraction: none

Real-world Results on track: Drag racing. Made 15 passes in one day. Temp reads 180, but I have my doubts that is correct.
Notes: Still working out the kinks. I plan to feed both ends of the cylinder head from the radiator when the car is back together. I use a universal CSI remotely mounted electric water pump. I would love to see a turbo road race car try a similar set up. Not sure how reliable an electric pump is on road race cars or if it is even done.

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Last edited by miata2fast; 05-11-2011 at 10:40 PM.
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