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Old 05-11-2011, 10:32 PM   #21
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I have no idea why the pics loaded like that.

Edit: I fixed it.

I am not trying to crap in the race section with my N/A drag car, but I thought that maybe it would inspire someone else to try either revearse flow and or an electric pump.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:06 AM   #22
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I have been considering an electric pump. But wasnt sure if anyone else was running one. It looks great and functional. I run a CSR electric pump on my small block Dodge Dart. I love it. I will defiantly look into this for my car. Did you gut the stock water pump?
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:54 AM   #23
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It's been on my long-list for a long time. The biggest benefit is the ability to reverse-flow the head, which should allow for a lot more timing under high sustained loads.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:10 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
I wish there was that 'perfect' front clip that would work both cooling and aero-wise with 225+ tires. I remember the aero thread back when. I'm not hurting for cooling, that's for sure, but now getting into TT, the aero (or the lack of) is really kicking my ***.
What are you willing to pay?

Quote:
Sav - you have about the best setup I've seen thus far staying with a modded oem clip (oops - closer look reveils RB2 clip). We needs some close-ups...
It's ugly as hell right now - when I made it I was trying a few things and wasn't spending the time to make it presentable. Now that it works, I'll rebuild it, tweak it, and make it pretty. When I rebuild it I'll snap a bunch of photos. The ideas are fairly simple, just time-consuming to implement. The same duct work on a customer car would be 400-500 in labor.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanRaduechel View Post
I have been considering an electric pump. But wasnt sure if anyone else was running one. It looks great and functional. I run a CSR electric pump on my small block Dodge Dart. I love it. I will defiantly look into this for my car. Did you gut the stock water pump?
I pressed out the impeller and bearings, and welded a cap to cover the hole left by the shaft and bearings.

There are a few things I need to modify. I need to relocate my water temp gauge to a place that reads the hottest water. Also, I failed miserably with the oil filter cooler, the water is stagnent. And of coarse I need to get cooled water to both sides of the cylinder head. It looks like I am going to have to replumb almost everything.

The mistakes I made on a high powered turbo car probably would have been serious, but cools my N/A nicely. The real test will be when I am shooting nitrous, which creates a lot of heat. If I get it right, I would think it would work good on a turbo track car.

Last edited by miata2fast; 05-12-2011 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:08 AM   #26
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Post title: Turbo - 240+ WHP race fuel - 225 WHP street
___________

Fuel: F&L 101 race and 91 Chevron street
Intercooler: Custom PWR Extruded tube IC, 15x12x3.5
Water/Meth injection: No but I have a high pressure water misting system for Rad/IC/Oil cooler
Coolant: Evans NGP-R zero pressure no H20 system
Radiator: custom BEGi 57mm cross flow twin tube
Fans: 2 Spal (one 11 inch paddle one 11 inch slim) 2/3rd'sCobra Shroud
Coolant bypass: Yes - M-Tuned

Oil: Rotella T6 5-40
Oil cooler: DIY - 18 row Earls w/ 8AN fittings w/ modified FM brackets

Ducting: yes, lower ABS gap panels and custom under tray
Bumper opening modification: No, but TSI's ducted to top half of radiator
Heat extraction: custom louvered hood

Real-world Results on track: 20-25 min, 100+ ambient, h2o temp - 215, oil temp-260 top, recovers to 185/210 within cooldown lap
Notes: Tune is dead reliable, no issues with overheating of oil or coolant. PS fluid boils though, but not for long .
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:41 AM   #27
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Post title: I touch your privates.
___________

Fuel: 93, son
Intercooler: BEGi #3, very large
Coolant: ****, distilled water, a couple cups of O'Reilly coolant
Thermostat: 185*
Radiator: "Radiator Barn Race" version from eBay, $120
Fans: One stock fan, on the driver's side

Oil: Rotella T6 5-40
Oil cooler: DIY - 18 row Earls w/ 10AN fittings w/ modified FM brackets, plastic ghetto ducting

My heat exchangers are ducted and the oil cooler scoops air and rocks from below, mounted to the steering rack. These is lots and lots of aluminum tape on my crummy ducting. I also have a garage full of alumalite for the next try.

Real-world Results on track: 20-45 min, 100+ ambient, h2o temp: 190-195f, oil temp-220*f.

Notes: I have the best tune of any Miata in the world, certified by Guiness. When I run a cool-down lap, my temps don't really change, oil drops to 200*f though, lol. I've run the car at Hallett for 45-minutes at 98*fat a time, run the car at TWS at 90*f ambient for the same and the temps never budge.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:53 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It's been on my long-list for a long time. The biggest benefit is the ability to reverse-flow the head, which should allow for a lot more timing under high sustained loads.
Can I get some more information on this?
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:32 AM   #29
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I warned you.

Search, coolant reroute.

Dann
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
Search, coolant reroute.
I have, been reading those too. Summed up, most of them are "This is how you do it. Ive been able to advance timing because of it." I want to know why though.
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:02 AM   #31
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the stock head flows coolant from the front of the bloclk to the front of the block, the only water that is at the back is almost stagnant, it isnt forced to the back and then returns it just flows from the inlet straight out the outlet.

The rear cylinders are much hotter than the front, causing it to detonate earlier than the others, causing us to tune with 3-4 degrees less timing just to save 1 hot cylinder.

Dann
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:31 AM   #32
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But reverse flowing is something different. Reverse flowing uses an external water pump and a gutted stock pump. The water enters through the head and leaves through the block via the water pump housing. The GM LSx engines are cooled in a head first, reverse flow manner.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:42 AM   #33
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CBF to explain that cheers.

Dann
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