Brake ducts in R-package front lip
#21
Supporting Vendor
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Thing is, it gives me a reason to make something on the 3D printer which I enjoy. ...
I'm just finishing up a printing a complete rear wing with a custom profile. It's been using up my printer time as I've had to print 12 sections, each one around 12 hours or so. Once I've finished that project I'm going to look at printing a custom airbox or maybe do the brakes ducting first.
I'm just finishing up a printing a complete rear wing with a custom profile. It's been using up my printer time as I've had to print 12 sections, each one around 12 hours or so. Once I've finished that project I'm going to look at printing a custom airbox or maybe do the brakes ducting first.
...Doesn't mean the hammer is the right tool for every problem
-Ryan
#28
Prusa 8" i3v Kit (V-Slot Extrusion)
The flashforge ones look like to be a good bang for the buck printer tho.
Prices should still continue to drop for the next year as I've been seeing a lot of china companies developing and selling printers direct from manufacturer rather then via a US reseller who would mark it up.
#30
Many companies are already on their 3rd plus generation machines. Most of the major kinks are worked out. The g-code generating software is constantly being improved so it's always neat seeing what new features they have.
At work we use a stratsys which runs about $30k. I'm sad that it set the bar way to high for my 3D printing expectation and no hobby entry level machine can match it. It just works. period. No tinkering with and adjusting a bunch of settings. Perfect prints every time. But still for the price, it's pretty impressive what the budget ones can do and how far the tech has come since then.
What I'd love is a budget system with a temperature controlled chamber rather than just the heat bed. I always have print warping issues on larger prints due to the temperature difference between the lower and upper layers causing contraction stresses. The Stratasys machines control the temperature of the entire chamber so there is no stresses in the part while printing creating very reliable large prints.
At work we use a stratsys which runs about $30k. I'm sad that it set the bar way to high for my 3D printing expectation and no hobby entry level machine can match it. It just works. period. No tinkering with and adjusting a bunch of settings. Perfect prints every time. But still for the price, it's pretty impressive what the budget ones can do and how far the tech has come since then.
What I'd love is a budget system with a temperature controlled chamber rather than just the heat bed. I always have print warping issues on larger prints due to the temperature difference between the lower and upper layers causing contraction stresses. The Stratasys machines control the temperature of the entire chamber so there is no stresses in the part while printing creating very reliable large prints.
#31
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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We also have a stratysis at work. Also an UP! The up has the heated cabinet. Also my friend just got a printer with a heated cabinet but I can't find the name of it, it was just barely sub 500 but he prepaid and waited 5 months to get it.
#32
if you friend bought one with a temp controlled chamber rather than heat bed please let me know the details of it if you ever find out.
#33
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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It looks like the Up printer is just a heatbed type printer with a shielding enclosure to reduce air draft but not a true temper controlled heated chamber. The Stratasys ones use no heat bed and instead have the entire print in an oven. The shielding should help some with that issue but I doubt it would solve my issue of large print curling on ABS.
if you friend bought one with a temp controlled chamber rather than heat bed please let me know the details of it if you ever find out.
if you friend bought one with a temp controlled chamber rather than heat bed please let me know the details of it if you ever find out.
#37
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Our stratysis is pretty awesome, we have done a bunch of hacks to it, so we have refillable cartridges (saves us $100's), we added a raft of support material to the bottom of the print so that we can reuse the beds, about quadrupled the print resolution and were able to change some of the settings for multicolored printing.
#40
making a tool specificly for the miata for plastic injection or vacuum molded parts like that is more of an OEM undertaking where you have exact CAD dimensions of everything and can spread the tooling cost over a number of cars. Someone with really good fiberglass and layup experience can probably come up with something tho.