cj9694

Hi Guys,

I killed another 1.6 master cylinder in my ecotec miata with sport brake calipers. It was a dorman part that is supposedly new and was pressure tested before it left the factory. Not sure if I believe that or not.... Anyway I know I have already missmatched parts some by having a 1.6 MC feed sport calipers and so im looking for recommendations on a master cylinder. I want to avoid anther on track failure after only 1.5 lemons races. I found the wilwood MC kit on super miata and good win and wondered if anyone could comment on if that would be a suitable matchup or if its too much MC for the sport calipers. a "new" master from mazda has a list price of >$200 and the racer price is around $55 (which is what I paid for the dorman part) and makes very very cautious.

Heres a link to the kit
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1699.html

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

At one time the 929 master was the way to go. There are also a few choices in boosters to look into. I think the 99-00 (se) cars had a 1:4 ratio in them. There was a great thread on MC's and boosters a few years ago. Good luck

andym

I have the v8 roadster wilwood 1 inch master. I used it on my 92 chassis with 1.8 brakes and it felt firm. I still use it on my bbk and it feels good. I am happy with it.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I used this:
https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylind...o=260-14243-BK

Bolted right up to the NA booster, but had to measure the pushrod depth and use a spacer. If you removed the pushrod and replaced it with a shallow button cap screw (m6x1.0) it could work without any special adapter or modification since the wilwood comes with it's own little adapter. I cannot verify, but this is the conclusion I came to after taking all the measurements. Though it's not a big deal, make sure you remove the drum brake pressure relief valves if getting the 949/v8Roadster offered Wilwoods. There was a thread in the past two years where folks didn't even know they existed (because no one reads the documentation).





https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...2/#post1476164

cj9694

How firm did it feel on the 1.8 brakes? Like no feeling firm (on/off switch)? And what booster did you use? I'm trying to stick to off the shelf parts for lemons racing the wilwood calipers don't have a great record for holding up unless you get the dynapro calipers and at that point I would just get the stoptech kit.

Thanks for the input!

cj9694

thanks! That is more of what I was hoping for. no adapter plate and multiple ports to be able to use.

andym

It felt pretty firm and good to me. My car is first and foremost a street car and I have not had issues with the master. I am currently using my stock booster which is the same as all na / nb non sport brakes. I did however need to adjust the nut / pin at the foot pedal to get the free play just right.

engineered2win

I installed that Goodwin Wilwood 1" master kit in time for NCM this weekend. Definitely get the master brace or make one while you're in there. Press on the master and you can watch it move. Brake pedal is wonderfully firm; just beautiful!
I run the sport brakes on my NB1 w/ G-Loc R10/R6 pads(emilio recommended R12/R8, but I don't think TT6 spec ~130whp warrants that temp range or pad mu). I'm using the OE NB1 non-abs booster. I also have a wilwood adjustable prop valve w/ remote adjuster.

The only thing left is to dial in the brake pedal height to perfect heel/toe-ing. I adjusted it to engage a bit too high and it was kinda difficult to roll my foot to blip the throttle. I'll have it dialed in over the winter and it'll be perfect. I had to extend the pushrod about 1/4" from stock after installing the wilwood master to get the engagement height off the floor. I was initially rather alarmed that half the pedal travel did nothing, until I found the adjuster at the top of the pedal.
I went from the 7/8" master in the NB1, so it went from a fairly long, fairly soft pedal to short and firm. It feels more like I'm adjusting line pressure via force rather than pedal travel, if that makes sense. It was shockingly easy to modulate lockup via a minute amount of travel. The extra effort is minimal and I was up to speed in a couple laps.

cj9694

That actually makes perfect sense!
I'm glad to hear you had such a good experience. I also have the wilwood prop valve with the remote ****. I have Hawk dtc60s at all four corners (i convinced the product manger they should be making them for the sport brakes and he sent me a set to try). It looks like the 90-00 cars all had the same booster (according to Keith) https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=363284 . I think I'll stick with the 1.6 booster in there now and see how it goes, the pedal travel is long and soft right now and i think that might be why the master failed.

Thanks everyone for the great info and feedback

cj9694

So I just noticed "The stroke is set at 1.12" with a volume ratio of 2:1 between the primary and secondary chambers." Which on a normal Miata master I believe it's 1:1 front to rear. Did you have any issues with getting the rears to lock? I'm assuming no, but wanted to check. Did you use a prop valve?