building my cage
About to start my cage and need a quick question answered. I am buying a new die to bend 1 & 1/2" pipe but don't know how tight of a clr (center line radius) I need for my miata. They offer 4.5, 5.5 and 6.5"
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You can do everything you need to do with the 4.5". Most people I know with Benders go with the tightest radius at or over 3x tube diameter.
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Thanks! I need to look if anyone here has done a cage setup themselves but this phone is to slow to search. I have a harddog to go off of so it will help a bit.
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Check the rulebook for your organization too. I feel like I remember seeing a bend radius min/max in one of the rulebooks.
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In every rulebook I have looked at, nasa, scca, chump, lemons it says that the radius must be a minimum of 3x the diameter of the pipe. Consult your rule book for the group you intend to run with.
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I'm not running a class, it will be a street cage but it will hit the track for fun. Still think 4.5" is what I need?
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Even if you're not racing yet, I'd still look over the rulebooks that rharris mentioned and build to those specs. If you don't want to use all the bars they require, fine, but make sure the ones that you do use comply to those requirements. That way if you ever decide to move to some sort of w2w, you'll have a cage that's either ready to go or just needs a couple bars added. Or if you decide to sell the car, you'll have a much larger group of potential buyers.
And all that goes without saying that the current requirements are what they are because of previous trial and error. Stick pretty close to the rulebooks and you should end up with a cage that'll do it's job if you ever need it. |
There's no such thing as a street cage. Build it to a ruleset (NASA/SCCA) or don't waste your time.
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Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 949912)
Even if you're not racing yet, I'd still look over the rulebooks that rharris mentioned and build to those specs. If you don't want to use all the bars they require, fine, but make sure the ones that you do use comply to those requirements. That way if you ever decide to move to some sort of w2w, you'll have a cage that's either ready to go or just needs a couple bars added. Or if you decide to sell the car, you'll have a much larger group of potential buyers.
And all that goes without saying that the current requirements are what they are because of previous trial and error. Stick pretty close to the rulebooks and you should end up with a cage that'll do it's job if you ever need it.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 949917)
There's no such thing as a street cage. Build it to a ruleset (NASA/SCCA) or don't waste your time.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 949917)
There's no such thing as a street cage. Build it to a ruleset (NASA/SCCA) or don't waste your time.
1. A cage on a street car is asking for dents in your skull. 2. Depending on the intended organization, and discipline, your design will be radically different. Ever seen video of the interior of a car during an accident, everything goes EVERYWHERE. Don't be a dummy and bounce your skull off your neat cage. That's a big reason that racers wear helmets. For instance, the "cage" I'm planning for my autocross car will be VERY different from anything he needs. Not only because he runs NASA and I, SCCA, but because my car has no windshield, and safety is only a secondary concern.(I know I know, but when's the last time you've heard of an autocross car flipping?) |
I have never been a fan of the street cage idea, but if you do it make sure it conforms to the following rule set for the forward hoops.
NASA Rules: 15.6.8 Forward Hoops (Option 1) The forward hoops shall extend from the main hoop (in a forward direction) to the floor by following the roof and the “A” pillar of the car. There shall be a bar connecting the two (2) forward hoops at the top of the windshield mounted as close to the roof as possible without violating CCR Section #15.6.20 Inspection. The forward hoops shall incorporate no more than four bends each. Optionally a “15.6.9 Halo Hoop (Option 2)” or “15.6.10 Front Hoop (Option 3)” construction may also be acceptable. 15.6.9 Halo Hoop (Option 2) A “halo bar” extends from the main hoop (in a forward direction) following the roof line to the windshield then following along the top of the windshield, then following the roof line back to the main hoop, thus creating a “halo” over the driver’s head. A “halo” bar shall be constructed of one (1) continuous piece of tubing. One (1) down tube following the “A” pillar must support the “halo” on each side of the car. The down tubes shall incorporate no more than two (2) bends each. 15.6.10 Front Hoop (Option 3) A “front hoop” is a bar that extends up from the floor, then follows the “A” pillar up to the roof, then follows the roof line across the top of the windshield, then back down the other “A” pillar, and then terminates on the floor. There must be one (1) horizontal bar (following the roof line) connecting the main hoop and the forward hoop on each side of the car. The front hoop shall incorporate no more than four (4) bends. This is convertible to a legal cage: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1344447129 |
3 Attachment(s)
Maybe I should rephrase my definition of cage. I want a rollbar
My intentions: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352946347 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352946347 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352946347 |
Originally Posted by FowlerMotorsports
(Post 949949)
Maybe I should rephrase my definition of cage. I want a rollbar
While I cannot give you a good answer I would love it if you did a write up on everything you do to build your roll bar. Sometime in the distant future I will be wanting to do the same thing. |
Cage, rollbar, blah blah
I will be sure to take several pics during the build but it will most likely start next weekend. |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by tpwalsh
(Post 949942)
^ This.
1. A cage on a street car is asking for dents in your skull. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352952508 |
1.5" is too thin for a roll bar/cage. Go with 1.75" 0.095" wall
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Originally Posted by FowlerMotorsports
(Post 949859)
About to start my cage and need a quick question answered. I am buying a new die to bend 1 & 1/2" pipe but don't know how tight of a clr (center line radius) I need for my miata. They offer 4.5, 5.5 and 6.5"
Originally Posted by tpwalsh
(Post 949942)
(I know I know, but when's the last time you've heard of an autocross car flipping?)
And wouldn't you feel the fool (assuming you survived the incident) to be the guy who intentionally did his cage in a way that doesn't protect you in a rollover, when that's the primary point of a cage, if you're unlucky enough to have to find out how bad your design is? -Ryan |
Woah woah woah, I posted the above then read the rest of the thread and noticed you are not building a cage you're building a roll bar.
BIG DIFFERENCE - not just "blah blah, same thing" - not at all. A roll bar should be 1.75" tubing. 1.5" Should ONLY be used in a roll cage If you're looking at an SCCA rulebook you should already know this.
Originally Posted by motormechanic
(Post 950002)
1.5" is too thin for a roll bar/cage. Go with 1.75" 0.095" wall
On the subject of thickness, I would agree that that is adequate, but SCCA requires .120 for roll bars, so which rule book you're following changes things. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by motormechanic
(Post 950002)
1.5" is too thin for a roll bar/cage. Go with 1.75" 0.095" wall
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Originally Posted by motormechanic
(Post 950002)
1.5" is too thin for a roll bar/cage. Go with 1.75" 0.095" wall
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