|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 950025)
I have personally seen this happen. And wouldn't you feel the fool (assuming you survived the incident) to be the guy who intentionally did his cage in a way that doesn't protect you in a rollover, when that's the primary point of a cage, if you're unlucky enough to have to find out how bad your design is? -Ryan Close to what I'm imagining for my bar: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352983552 |
Originally Posted by toppertee
(Post 949985)
No Dents, in my skull yet, finger crossed::drama:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352952508 |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 950026)
Woah woah woah, I posted the above then read the rest of the thread and noticed you are not building a cage you're building a roll bar.
BIG DIFFERENCE - not just "blah blah, same thing" - not at all. A roll bar should be 1.75" tubing. 1.5" Should ONLY be used in a roll cage If you're looking at an SCCA rulebook you should already know this. Just about every cage in miatas are done in 1.5", and this is absolutely acceptable. For a roll bar though, the only ones that meet NASA/SCCA are 1.75" On the subject of thickness, I would agree that that is adequate, but SCCA requires .120 for roll bars, so which rule book you're following changes things. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by toppertee
(Post 949985)
No Dents, in my skull yet, finger crossed::drama:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352952508 |
Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 950100)
My car is a former spec miata and it has a 1.75 inch cage.
|
Man, I wish we could have re manufactured seat belt mount points in our cars like the blackbird one pictured on page 1.
Our Sactioning body won't let them on the street unless the OEM setbelt points remain. I have had to remove seatbelts and run harness on the street. Sometimes VERY annoying. I might borrow that picture and submit it for consideration...... |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 950052)
That looks like flammable pipe insulation (or pool noodles) and not SFI approved roll bar padding. One will catch on fire, melt, drip on your skin and get stuck to you as a melting blob of plastic burning your skin off, the other one is SFI approved roll bar padding.
So if I don't crash or set my car on fire, I should be o.k. |
Originally Posted by toppertee
(Post 950328)
Yes but SFI padding is soooo expensive, plus the padding is only there to cover my welds. I found I was blowing holes in my tubes with my arc welder, so I just tacked the tubes in place and sealed the gaps with filler and put plenty of paint on the joints. Job done.
So if I don't crash or set my car on fire, I should be o.k. |
Not sure if..... :facepalm:
|
There is no way you could be serious. That was a joke right.
|
Oh my god.. this thread just went south fast.
He's joking right? |
Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
(Post 950313)
Man, I wish we could have re manufactured seat belt mount points in our cars like the blackbird one pictured on page 1.
Our Sactioning body won't let them on the street unless the OEM setbelt points remain. I have had to remove seatbelts and run harness on the street. Sometimes VERY annoying. I might borrow that picture and submit it for consideration...... Have a look at the almac kit car that is sold in new Zealand and check what standard they used to pass the M.O.T for there belt set up. Over here in austraila when we are not riding kangaroos to work we use cars, due to the laws we are not allowed to run harness on the street, as there is no standard approvals in Australia for harnesses. I'm pretty sure the standard is the same in nz as we share the same standards. So as a guess you should be able to get cert for the belt as I did. |
Originally Posted by toppertee
(Post 950328)
Yes but SFI padding is soooo expensive, plus the padding is only there to cover my welds. I found I was blowing holes in my tubes with my arc welder, so I just tacked the tubes in place and sealed the gaps with filler and put plenty of paint on the joints. Job done.
So if I don't crash or set my car on fire, I should be o.k. http://www.reactiongifs.com/wp-conte...ouble-take.gif |
1 Attachment(s)
|
Meh, I used the smaller diameter pool noodles held in place by wires to get the basic shape I wanted. Then I carefully wrapped that in fiberglass matting and added the resin. It took three layers of matting to get the thickness and strength I wanted. After the resin hardened I cut off the suspension wires flush with the surface. Then I sanded it down and smoothed it with body filler (Bondo) to make it look smooth like metal. Several coats of gloss black Krylon and then some rollbar padding over it to complete the look and you are done. Add some decals to keep people from looking to closely and you have got it made. And I saved having to spend $500 on a Hard Dog DD.
|
1 Attachment(s)
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 950382)
Meh, I used the smaller diameter pool noodles held in place by wires to get the basic shape I wanted. Then I carefully wrapped that in fiberglass matting and added the resin. It took three layers of matting to get the thickness and strength I wanted. After the resin hardened I cut off the suspension wires flush with the surface. Then I sanded it down and smoothed it with body filler (Bondo) to make it look smooth like metal. Several coats of gloss black Krylon and then some rollbar padding over it to complete the look and you are done. Add some decals to keep people from looking to closely and you have got it made. And I saved having to spend $500 on a Hard Dog DD.
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 950382)
Meh, I used the smaller diameter pool noodles held in place by wires to get the basic shape I wanted. Then I carefully wrapped that in fiberglass matting and added the resin. It took three layers of matting to get the thickness and strength I wanted. After the resin hardened I cut off the suspension wires flush with the surface. Then I sanded it down and smoothed it with body filler (Bondo) to make it look smooth like metal. Several coats of gloss black Krylon and then some rollbar padding over it to complete the look and you are done. Add some decals to keep people from looking to closely and you have got it made. And I saved having to spend $500 on a Hard Dog DD.
|
I have no idea where this thread is heading all of a sudden !! BUT thanks Toppertee, I will look in to that.
The MANZ rules seem to have gone a bit crazy here of late, it doesn't look too good at this point... |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:32 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands