Crusher-type bumper pics needed.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Crusher-type bumper pics needed.
I'm getting a shitty bumper and I want to make a Crusher bumper for my green car but I have no idea how to do it. Please share the pics of your construction.
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I'm so trying this...
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Elite Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 66
From: Newcastle, Australia
Ok here are the aero results., not QUITE finished but a good effort for one day I think.
The car has a garage Vary lip but not anymore.
Angle grinder.
Rivnuts (nutserts) and flush allen key hardware, 10.9 tensile.
Using a pair of factory M6 threads and another 2 rivnuts in the subframe.
Rough cut 1/2" ply.
I weight 100kg and you can stand on the ****, and even bounce on it.
The front most bracket, rivnuts in the body and rivnuts in this bracket.
Steel flatbar to reinforce the bottom of the PVC front bar. The black plastic just in front of the tyre was removed after this shot.
Cutting out the wood for a rough starting shape, after the rear wing has been given proper sized endplates, the front splitter will be cut down until the front/rear downforce is similar.
Front bar PVC sheet clamped on test fitting, ready for nuts bolts and white sikaflex.
The wing mount, this MAY stay permanent depending how well it works, the boot has been braced with 3mm steel plate.
Top bolts in and cutting the excess.
The removed the protective layer to reveal nice shiny white PVC front bar.
Here it is almost done, I drove it like this.
Check the phone, yeh its pretty low. Should be efficient.
It needs the flat bar bonded and bolted to the bottom and a pair of braces for the widest points of the splitter.
I intend to take a sawzall to the track and cut the splitter down until front/rear downforce bias is neutral.
Its very low, check the picture with the phone on the ground to show its height, this is a big screen LG phone. Its about 80mm.
The owner will make cardboard templates for the radiator/IC ducting and I will make it and fit it (more rivnuts).
The intake opening was just rough cut so it could be driven. I threw in some extra fuel to get it driveable and check everything worked right.
Its is the most responsive car Ive ever driven, its great, Im super super happy with it. On 10 PSI with 17x9 slicks It spins 3rd no hastles at all. They were cold though.
Its telepathic in boost reposnse and spins 2nd from 2500rpm so low/mid torque is great.
Dyno by the weekend.
Dann
The car has a garage Vary lip but not anymore.
Angle grinder.
Rivnuts (nutserts) and flush allen key hardware, 10.9 tensile.
Using a pair of factory M6 threads and another 2 rivnuts in the subframe.
Rough cut 1/2" ply.
I weight 100kg and you can stand on the ****, and even bounce on it.
The front most bracket, rivnuts in the body and rivnuts in this bracket.
Steel flatbar to reinforce the bottom of the PVC front bar. The black plastic just in front of the tyre was removed after this shot.
Cutting out the wood for a rough starting shape, after the rear wing has been given proper sized endplates, the front splitter will be cut down until the front/rear downforce is similar.
Front bar PVC sheet clamped on test fitting, ready for nuts bolts and white sikaflex.
The wing mount, this MAY stay permanent depending how well it works, the boot has been braced with 3mm steel plate.
Top bolts in and cutting the excess.
The removed the protective layer to reveal nice shiny white PVC front bar.
Here it is almost done, I drove it like this.
Check the phone, yeh its pretty low. Should be efficient.
It needs the flat bar bonded and bolted to the bottom and a pair of braces for the widest points of the splitter.
I intend to take a sawzall to the track and cut the splitter down until front/rear downforce bias is neutral.
Its very low, check the picture with the phone on the ground to show its height, this is a big screen LG phone. Its about 80mm.
The owner will make cardboard templates for the radiator/IC ducting and I will make it and fit it (more rivnuts).
The intake opening was just rough cut so it could be driven. I threw in some extra fuel to get it driveable and check everything worked right.
Its is the most responsive car Ive ever driven, its great, Im super super happy with it. On 10 PSI with 17x9 slicks It spins 3rd no hastles at all. They were cold though.
Its telepathic in boost reposnse and spins 2nd from 2500rpm so low/mid torque is great.
Dyno by the weekend.
Dann
Dann
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 409
Total Cats: 20
From: Houston
Use rivet washers where you rivet the ABS to the bumper. If not they will pull out.
I used only the two front existing mount points on the subframe, not the additional ones in the rear... and then I used turnbuckles in front instead of the framework in front of the intercooler. This allows the splitter to pivot upwards and just bend the ABS when it bottoms out... it has saved the whole assembly many times.
I also used two more turnbuckles, one in front of each tire to support the corners of the splitter.
Ohh, and keep both the air damn and the splitter as close to the wheels as possible without rubbing at full droop. The more coverage the better for aero.
I used only the two front existing mount points on the subframe, not the additional ones in the rear... and then I used turnbuckles in front instead of the framework in front of the intercooler. This allows the splitter to pivot upwards and just bend the ABS when it bottoms out... it has saved the whole assembly many times.
I also used two more turnbuckles, one in front of each tire to support the corners of the splitter.
Ohh, and keep both the air damn and the splitter as close to the wheels as possible without rubbing at full droop. The more coverage the better for aero.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I'm not making a splitter so I'm not sure how to do the bottom part. At this point, I'm not sure I'm making anything, but giving it consideration.
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I'll see your classic "I stand on my splitter to test its strength" and raise you a "Put all three of my roommates on my splitter at once"
Snapped this pic today. New splitter/splitter frame and EP style bumper. 480 lbs on the front lip:
Snapped this pic today. New splitter/splitter frame and EP style bumper. 480 lbs on the front lip:
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 409
Total Cats: 20
From: Houston
Haha, nice!
Hustler. Even if you don't want a splitter, I'd build an undertray out of some thin plywood. It will support the EP style nose and improve aero.
If you REALLY don't want an undertray, you could just run a couple pieces of angle iron to the bottom front of the ABS to support it. You'd also probably want to run some sort of aluminum support (like a bent flat bar) all the way around the bottom lip of the ABS, because its pretty flimsy
Hustler. Even if you don't want a splitter, I'd build an undertray out of some thin plywood. It will support the EP style nose and improve aero.
If you REALLY don't want an undertray, you could just run a couple pieces of angle iron to the bottom front of the ABS to support it. You'd also probably want to run some sort of aluminum support (like a bent flat bar) all the way around the bottom lip of the ABS, because its pretty flimsy
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Elite Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 66
From: Newcastle, Australia
Like in above photos.
In the photo it looks like I weigh more than all 3 together pass haha.
Good job whats it made of? Mines just scrap ply with the grain running across the car, the grain is the weakpoint at this stage.
Dann
Dann
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I would have put more people on it if I could have. If someone had been walking by my house when I was taking the picture, I wold have recruited them as well, I just ran out of people.-Ryan
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"E Prepared" style bumper complete.
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