Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 674768)
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.
Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor. Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge. Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights. Details: Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light AFR - Analog AEM Boost - stripped Autometer Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED Backlighting - LED, dimmable Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel. http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YvrgazlP7Qg/TR...4/IMG_5145.JPG Picasa Pic |
Originally Posted by Chriscar
(Post 674787)
Wow, that's badass. Have any pictures of the insides?
C
Originally Posted by ScottFW
(Post 674808)
It's pretty sweet that you have all that integrated into a stock cluster, but a minor point of weirdness IMO is how you have the tach and speedo dials clocked. For example, why not put the tach redline at 12:00, or 6:00 since you seem to like stuff pointing downward most of the time? If you're going to rotate them at all, I would configure them so "vertical" relates to some commonly used or important value, to make it easier for your brain to process when you're at speed. Just personal preference of course.
Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 674827)
How much to buy one of those?
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Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 674834)
Yikes, it's home made. I bought a couple of used clusters for a total of $75 so I didn't have to rip into mine. There's probably $20 worth of wires, LEDS and such and I likely ripped through 25 sheets of laser printable acetate (at a buck a sheet). The boost gauge was donated by a friend and I bought the AEM W/B new.
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Maybe a "how to" of sorts for those of us not so electrically literate?
;) |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 674768)
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.
Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor. Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge. Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights. Details: Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light AFR - Analog AEM Boost - stripped Autometer Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED Backlighting - LED, dimmable Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel. http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YvrgazlP7Qg/TR...4/IMG_5145.JPG Picasa Pic This is the most ridiculously awesome analog gauge cluster I have ever seen. |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 674768)
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.
Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor. Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge. Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights. Details: Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light AFR - Analog AEM Boost - stripped Autometer Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED Backlighting - LED, dimmable Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel. http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YvrgazlP7Qg/TR...4/IMG_5145.JPG Picasa Pic |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 674834)
Sorry, not yet - I'm kinda embarrassed at the wiring spaghetti in there, not my usual work.
C |
Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 674924)
Don't be shy! I've modded a few clusters and they all look great on the outside and messy on the inside. Here's my Miata cluster - now it's your turn. :)
C I've seen your work before Chris. In fact, it was your posts here at MT that prompted me to get off my a$$ and do something.
Originally Posted by Gryff
(Post 674837)
Maybe a "how to" of sorts for those of us not so electrically literate? |
Thanks for the pics! How's the backlighting handled? Looks like you've got a piece of clear plexi in there, and some sort of liquid mask.What program did you use to generate the faceplate, and what kind of printer was used?
C |
Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 675095)
Thanks for the pics! How's the backlighting handled? Looks like you've got a piece of clear plexi in there, and some sort of liquid mask.What program did you use to generate the faceplate, and what kind of printer was used?
C The faceplate was made using Adobe Illustrator using the methods detailed at revlimiter.net. The (orange) liquid mask you refer to is simply permanent marker applied to both sides of a piece of clear acetate (both sides to improve colour density). The faceplate consists of three layers. The viewed layer is laser printable clear acetate, the middle layer is white paper and the bottom layer is the clear acetate with orange marker. The blue and red markings are just more marker on the paper layer. The printer used was a HP1012, plain old black and white. I could not find any acetate bigger than letter size (legal would have been perfect) so there is a join in the visible layer. between tach and speedo Further, the feed accuracy of the printer means that paper and acetate do not exactly scale leading to a second join (near the boost gauge) to get paper and acetate to align. |
So can I buy one now? :)
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Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 710360)
So can I buy one now? :)
It snowed here in Toronto last night.....I'll say no more. |
So you'll be buying the car back from the insurance company and selling the cluster?
*I actually kind of hope that didn't happen* |
Originally Posted by fooger03
(Post 710466)
So you'll be buying the car back from the insurance company and selling the cluster?
*I actually kind of hope that didn't happen* Also, I managed to drop the vac/boost gauge one too many times during the build and it no longer zeros (it only travels between -20 and -10). I've tried resetting the needle and tweaking the bourdon tube to no avail. So its off to the local tuning shop for a replacement. Once it's installed I'll post up pics. I still don't think I'll be making them to sell though - it's a whole crap load of labour. |
Just made something similar on my freinds mustang I will get a pic and post it. It is defiantly worth it.
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1 Attachment(s)
My gauge setup is no longer being done because I got this...
Attachment 189542 Monitors oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, RPM, ODO, trip meter and speed. Top left is boost right now as well, but when I go Rotrex since it's a 0-5v signal I'm going to trick it into reading my wb02. All I have to do is hook the dash up to my computer and change the calibration settings. booya. They're under $1000 too... I love this thing. |
Originally Posted by wayne_curr
(Post 579598)
By the way, this is why I only use (or try to use) un-insulated crimp connectors, solder after the crimp and shrink tube the connections. As solid as if there wasn't a join there at all.
In general you shouldn't solder automotive wiring. Soldering creates a stress point in the wire that is more likely to fail than if you had just crimped it. So yes, your joint is solid, but that's exactly why it is more likely to fail. Practice: I have seen both crimp and solder joints fail in aftermarket engine management installs. For crimps they were loose and not checked well initially. For solder joints the wire cracked after a while at the point where the solder made the wire stiff. |
When you do what wayne says the crimp is bearing the load, the solder is only a backup and insurance for the electrical connection. the shrink tubing also helps bear some of the load. It is probably the best way to splice.
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If you solder the crimp is irrelevant. With solder it will break at the edge of the solder where the wire goes from being stranded (non-soldered) to solid (soldered), because you have introduced a stress riser at that point. This is an inevitable fact of soldering.
If the wire doesn't ever see flex around the joint you can probably get away with it, but it's still not as good as a simple crimp (mechanically). This is why companies like Motec say in their manuals not to use solder, and why you'll rarely find solder in a factory loom. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Jeff_Ciesielski
(Post 579970)
I've never heard of anyone overpowering stock bolts
:giggle: |
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