Cutting doors
 

So I have been searching but haven't found what I am looking for.

I am planning a roll cage install and am trying to find pictures of doors that are cut. This car is a daily driver and while I do want the safety of a cage on the track I dont want it in the way during my weekly commute. The cage will be custom built based off of the tall cage design by DGE Motorsports. I will loose the soft top but plan to keep a factory hardtop.

I have looked at some photos of a single diagonal bars but they are too close to the seat and block the access to the seat. Also, i already have a problem of my hand hitting my knee when driving and i would like the extra room. Here is the list of some of the ideas that I am thinking of.

1. Keep the window and track intact
2. Keep the upper door panel intact
3. Have a lower door panel made to cover the internals
4. Use 2" webbing to raise and hold the widow closed
5. Small NASCAR bars
6. Have the upper bar removable using something like this
Attachment 18691

So why a rollcage at all?

1. The speeds I am getting to on the track are higher than what I feel safe with the Hard Dog.
2. I also want to stiffen up the car.
3. My helmet dosen't have the 2" I need below the bar. (that is a whole other issue with seats and harnesses)
4.

Make sure you'll be able to roll the window down and be sure to keep space around the dead-pedal. I'm in the same boat as you but still resisting the cage.

The hand hitting the knee problem is easily solved by moving the steering wheel closer to the driver. Get an aftermarket wheel and use a spacer or get one with a deep dish to move it 2 to 4 inches back. Not only will the knee/thigh to hands on steering wheel interfearnce problem go away you will also gain much more precise control of the steering wheel by not having to reach so far.

FWIW I have a Canadian non air bag column and the steering wheel is 1” closer to the driver than the air bag version due to the column by itself.

Bob

You can run a window without channels or mechanisms. Two clips are all that is needed. Here's an example I had in mine at one point...
Attachment 193241

And how its held in place
Attachment 193242

^So simple, so perfect. :D

Machismo comes through with glory again.

I see DOHCPanther also wanted panels to cover lower portion...
Attachment 193239

But taking a step further to still look like stock metal...
Attachment 193240

So it just rests in there for driving... then lift the glass out for track time?

Yessir. Compression fit when the door is closed and doesn't go anywhere. Great for security and inclement weather. Lifts right out and goes back in seconds.

Interesting, this might push me over the top on deciding to gut the doors. Nice to know the lower and front seal keeps it secured enough for normal driving.

Spoolin2bars is running that setup as well. Remember to vacuum line all if the sharp edges. Run nascar bars, they are way easier to get in and out of the car than a normal double straight bar.

That was the plan. Will just be running a mini pillar up front to attach them to also... I have no desire for a full cage... as I drive to and from events.

I actually shipped a race car from ATL to Colorado on an open trailer with the same principal... using masonite for windows. :giggle: Buyer said it worked excellent- car was bone dry on the inside.

If I didnt have the bracket to hold the window up would it slide down into the door and be secure? I cant see the rear track in your picture and I dont know if the third guide is needed to keep the window on track to raise and lower it. My thought is with small NASCAR bars I could close the door and the bars would clear the glass in the door. Then raise the window with 2" webbing. Sort of like this.

Attachment 18716

This would solve the problem of where to put the glass when the window is open and it would let me close and open the window from the seat.

That upper panel is nice. Exactly like I planned.

DOHCP - I have two brackets per door. Only one is visible in the pic, but two are needed. Yes, without these - the glass will just slide right on down. These basically hold the window in its stock "UP" position.
Your idea to use webbing is fine - but is more than is really needed. Just my opinion.
I'm always eager to see solutions to problems out there. There really is no "only way" to do something in this game. That's why I keep playin'.
I have some old T-top sleeves that I just put the windows in when not in use. They can be stored in the trunk, left at paddock w/ gear, or just left at home all together.
Keep us posted with what you come up with.

Here is another pic of what I am thinking.

Cut along these lines and add the strap here.
Attachment 18717

Then make a panel like this to seal it up.
Attachment 18718

I just dont know if the window will stay on track or if there will be enough room.

Gotcha... just make the webbing like a belt with a hole for a stop at the highest point for raised window. Snaps or caribeaner type setup. It will need some resistance to keep the window from falling back down.
***Edit - and with some NASCAR style door bars, the window isn't going to want be down anyways when door is shut. Depends on how much intrusion into the door they have. Just a thought.

Wow quick reply, cool then I think I can make this work. It is important to be able to function the window daily. I have to come in the main gate at post so opening the door is a pain. Also I would like to be able to raise and lower it in case of rain or for the drive thru windows.

Yep - I don't have that luxury. All or nothing :giggle:

Yes the strap will be secured with either some industrial snaps like used on a tonneu cover or 2" military style velcro.

The bars would be more like these. They should give me room to work.

https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=37

But I am think about having this area removable.

Attachment 18719

Anyone have any better ideas?