dimensioned drawing of front splitter/undertray? - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #41
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you can email it to me if that is easier, Ill pm you my email
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #42
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...so seriously no boobies because I don't have a way to open it myself to verify, I am trusting you...
This will me good.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #43
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the drawing in blue should look like this when cut out:

this is on my to do list. Damn that looks good. I need to read up on aerodynamic theory when I run out of misc miata projects.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:43 PM   #44
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If the cost is minimal to process a second, I would be interested rigid. Depends on how happy you made your CAD guy... probably should give him the boobies version to be safe in that regard.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:47 PM   #45
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the boobies make for a great place to stand for testing mounts.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:58 PM   #46
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I smell group buy, except I'm sure shipping would be cost prohibitive
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:31 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
the boobies make for a great place to stand for testing mounts.
So true.

I cannot upload/attach .dwg or .dxf. Brain?
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File Type: pdf braineack splitter.pdf (27.1 KB, 309 views)
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:32 PM   #48
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So true.

I cannot upload/attach .dwg or .dxf. Brain?
Put it in a .rar or .zip.
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:38 PM   #49
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Put it in a .rar or .zip.
yeah duh, ok.

If anyone makes one and there's a problem, or wants to let us know where the mounting holes should be or whatever, I can update the solidworks model.
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File Type: zip braineack splitter initial 091013.zip (31.0 KB, 86 views)
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:00 PM   #50
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Methinks the plotter here at the office will get a workout today. Hopfully I can print this 1:1 and use it as a template

Thanks gays!

Edit: LOL! Won't be printing that on one sheet...
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #51
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hey now you can use this:

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Old 09-10-2013, 02:09 PM   #52
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I guess it wouldnt matter for printing it as a template, but for my purposes I would need center points for the radius circles, and the wheel cut defined as well. I talked to a designer during lunch though and he seemed interested in helping so I will have him do that part for me.

Thanks a lot Tim this is a great start. And luckily I happen to have an Eassembly viewer so I could verify no boobies...

E02K if you print it out could you let us know about the location of the subframe holes just in front of the steering rack, those would be easy to add in to cut or punch and would hardly affect price. I will have to talk to the laser cutter but I would imagine they could cut a stack of material potentially at once reducing cost some. But I think the main cost will be material/shipping, not the actual cutting but I will get back to yall on that.

Edit: I guess if there is a potential interest in buying these, I should get some opinions. How far should we look to extend the leading edge, from what I understand this leading edge will be flush with the edge of the bumper correct? I talked to the designer about offsetting the radius bends and keeping them tangent but I figured 2 or 3 inches. would do yall think?
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:20 PM   #53
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I need to screw with it in DraftSight until I can get it to fit on a single sheet. It's been probably a decade since I touched this stuff.

Timmeh: Thanks for the drawing!

Brain: Thanks for the alignment image, that helps. We have a 36" roll in there currently so the 4'x3' looks do-able.

Mr Bigglesworth: I'll let you know what I come up with. I have several huge sheets of coroplast in the barn from the last election, so I may be able to get out in front of this pretty easily. I just wish I had access to a lift.
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #54
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4x3 JUSTTTTTTTTT fits. but that assumes you make only a 2-3" splitter. I forgot how far I made it extend.

I did this back in like 2007. That7guy bought a TDR splitter, I traced it crudely before he installed it and then I tried to transfer that to a digital file so it might be close but probably not perfect. I think I might have gone out and taken a few of my own measurements to get it closer; I honestly dont remember.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:20 PM   #55
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Oh this is already extended? I can just get them to make me a PDF drawing and ill get it submitted for a quote.

EDIT: Tim: can I get the actual model file? then we can pull center point dims for the radius and get some dims for the wheel cutout area.

Last edited by rigidbigelsworth; 09-10-2013 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:13 PM   #56
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You can get everything you need off the .dwg or .dxf in the .zip file above, using any number of free 2D cad or cam softwares.

The wheel cutout areas I did as 1/4 of an ellipse because that was faster, matched scott's profile, and I have real work to do today. So...yeah, there is no arc centerpoint or radius dimension for that.

Any CNC software can take either the .dwg or .dxf profile and make some code, regardless of the shapes or dimensions on your paper. Does your guy type out the program manually?
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:25 PM   #57
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No I was just talking with the designer and we both figured we would need those dims. The way we typically submit parts for quotes is with PDF of a fully dimensioned drawing. If they are just taking our PDF and making a DWG file, I guess I can save them a step by sending them the DWG file. I guess we don't do that so that our files stay ours, and theirs stay theirs? I dunno. Big companies with red tape...

I wasn't quite sure how that process worked.
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:50 AM   #58
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So I found out my friend has access to a CNC at his work, so I am having him cut me out that DWG in some coroplast for me to test clearance of wheels and locate the subframe mounting holes. I will share my findings with yall so we can update the DWG if needed for anyone else who wants to print it out in the future.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:04 AM   #59
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Coroplast is a good choice, it should be lighter and stiffer than the aluminum sheet the OP was talking about. Wait you are the op.
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:19 PM   #60
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Ha yeah thats me...

You think the coroplast will be stronger than AL? I didnt expect it to work very well as a splitter, maybe as an undertray?

I planned on doubling the 2.5AL material by riveting it together/sandwiching it with some adhesive
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