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With the new ABS unit we picked up .23g in braking over the really ancient 1996 ABS.
Not sure what that would translate to in pickup over the new Miata units.
You can feel the 4 channel setup move the car around under hard braking on course. It will take some getting used to, but it will be a massive upgrade over my "all ice mode all the time" old 3 channel setup.
FWIW I've never hit "ice mode" with my '01 3 channel ABS while on track or at autocross. I've had the inside front releasing, and I've had the rears releasing, always as expected with ABS. There is no part number difference in the NB ABS units, there is no way to flash them, I can't see how MSM units could be any different than any other NB ABS unit. They are completely standalone from the ECU and the two do not interact in any way.
First round of off season results were successful. First outing on the finalized new brakes and I think all went relatively well.
I'm off today for Columbus day and I'm starting the work to finally put a NB Subframe in this thing. We will see if it's really worth all the "hype"
I felt like I drove relatively well but was very timid with the brakes on day 1. But was only 3 10ths off Randall on day two(raw 6ths clean). I still say this guy is WAY underrated and still doesn't get all the credit he deserves as a driver.
Wow, thats gnarly! What size are those primaries? Look like collector goes to 2.5" then steps up to 3", any reason you didn't go straight to 3" collector?
FWIW I've never hit "ice mode" with my '01 3 channel ABS while on track or at autocross. I've had the inside front releasing, and I've had the rears releasing, always as expected with ABS. There is no part number difference in the NB ABS units, there is no way to flash them, I can't see how MSM units could be any different than any other NB ABS unit. They are completely standalone from the ECU and the two do not interact in any way.
I was never able to use the ABS in Acamas on track, I would always pull the fuse. Running that car over curbs while on-throttle immediately preceeding a braking zone would set off the ABS before I even touched the pedal. My best guess was that the small amounts of wheelspin on heavy throttle while cornering was actually setting the ECU into ice mode somehow. I learned my lesson quite quickly. I know the Miata ABS evolved several times over the years, so I don't know whether the '02 ABS in that car was substantially worse than the 04-05 MSM units, but the ice mode was no joke in that car.
Maybe I was always just lucky. But running similar setup with similar aged tires on the same course 1 car with known non-msm abs got ice mode and one with known msm abs didnt. Was the ABS like an ECU where the part numbers would be the same but it would need to be flashed by the dealer to your vin?
yeah, but on the msm's there are 3 different abs ring sizes and I think at least 2 different wheelspeed sensors depending on production date. So, I'm assuming something was updated along the way. It also locks the rears first then moves force to the front. So, if your rear pads go.... hold on tight lol.
Haven't posted here in a while.
We had another successful year.
Won both the XP and SSM National championships.
Not really sure what the next steps or next direction for the car is.
Full XP seems intriguing but I like the car being a real street car.
Seriously considering going away from the Torsen diff this winter.
After breaking the 3rd crankshaft I'm finally going billet, it should be here in about 8 weeks.
Other than that...not sure what to do to make the car faster. Open to ideas at this point.
Ref the diff, I was very pleased when I moved from a Torsen to a 1.5way clutch type (3J Driveline, made here in the UK, similar to Kaaz). Don't have any back to back timing data but subjectively traction and predictability out of low and medium speed corners felt far better. I felt my old Torsen had an initial 'lurch' to it as it started working whereas the plate style, locking harder as soon as acceleration was applied through the diff, acted quicker and more seamlessly.
How are the cranks breaking? Do you think it is a harmonics thing from high rpm / power or the drive requirement for the supercharger?
Are you at SSM minimum weight?
Is the engine significantly lowered or set back?
If it does not have drop spindles, in theory at least making a set would allow you to lower the wheel rate while maintaining roll stiffness. Which it would in turn increase mechanical grip.
Overall, the car is obviously very sorted. The first things that come to mind are further mass centralization and reaching the minimum weight if you aren't already.
Congratulations, I saw this earlier this week looking through the results. Very impressive.
Your car is an inspiration to me. This winter I’m going from DP to XP via an Ubercharger.
Thanks man. I appreciate it. I included my answers below.
Originally Posted by emilio700
Congratulations!
Are you at SSM minimum weight? - *** Our minimum is 2070 and we are 2112. With the variance in the scales, that is about as close as I would like to get. We have moved weight around, but I am still nose heavy. I could go to a newer aluminum block motor, but from what I have seen, the weight reduction isn't as meaningful as I had hoped, and I'd be starting over with my development program(With the latest revisions to the blower inlet, we are now making way more power than we need). I feel pretty married to the BP at this point. I have composite fenders, hood, roof and trunk. The splitter is carbon kevlar. I could rebuild the nose, rear bumper cover and wing in composite and save a little more weight(~ 10 lbs) and I could ditch the SFI bellhousing for an aluminum piece off an automatic trans (8 lbs). The crank Joe is building me is supposed to be 8 to 10 lbs lighter than the stock one and I am considering going with a light clutch setup this year. I'm currently running the ACT stuff. Those things would get me down hand grenade close to minium, but cost a TON.
Is the engine significantly lowered or set back? - *** It is. The motor mounts are small pucks of machined aluminum. It sits as low as I could get it on the stock subframe. It is setback as far as I could get it without modifying the firewall. (Funny story, I had never told anyone this and Bundy picked it out the very first time he looked at my car in person.)
If it does not have drop spindles, in theory at least making a set would allow you to lower the wheel rate while maintaining roll stiffness. Which it would in turn increase mechanical grip. - **** I'm using the latest Keisler spindles front and rear. I have custom control arms in the front upper and rear lower and upper. I have yet to find anything that works better than the stock front lowers (and I have tried about 6 or 7 different types). Due to these spindles, we are about 200+lbs/inch softer than most everyone else running a Miata on 275s
Overall, the car is obviously very sorted. The first things that come to mind are further mass centralization and reaching the minimum weight if you aren't already.
Ref the diff, I was very pleased when I moved from a Torsen to a 1.5way clutch type (3J Driveline, made here in the UK, similar to Kaaz). Don't have any back to back timing data but subjectively traction and predictability out of low and medium speed corners felt far better. I felt my old Torsen had an initial 'lurch' to it as it started working whereas the plate style, locking harder as soon as acceleration was applied through the diff, acted quicker and more seamlessly.
How are the cranks breaking? Do you think it is a harmonics thing from high rpm / power or the drive requirement for the supercharger?
I talked to Lugod about a OSG. I'm very intrigued about his tune for a "1.1" way setup. I think I am for sure going to try it out this winter. We run a YUGE front bar and don't have the issue of picking up an inside rear, but I do think corner exit is some place we might be leaving time on the table.
The supercharger is breaking the snouts off them.
The one Joe is building has a longer and larger diameter snout.
Eric I think you're underestimating how much weight the MZR saves on the nose. Especially if you do the lighter 2.0 bottom end with a 2.5 head. Remember my car was close to the same weight you are now (I was either side of the turbo 2.5L weight limit depending on which wheels I used) with way way less effort put into pulling weight after the swap and I was under far enough under 51% nose weight that if we started weighing in ssm with driver that I'd violate the 51% rear weight limit. So I wouldnt completely discount it, I think you'd have to do a custom bellhousing or go to a T5 trans though since there's no T10 to MZR/Duratec off the bellhousings that I know of, at least you'd get the exhaust to the side away from the shift linkage. Unfortunately you do have to move the steering rack forward which will move flip the car from having positive to negative akerman (or is it the other way around?), which there's the case to be made at auto-x speed and steering angles is actually beneficial, or at worst just a wash.
Congratulations, I saw this earlier this week looking through the results. Very impressive.
Your car is an inspiration to me. This winter I’m going from DP to XP via an Ubercharger.
If you need any help setting up the blower, just let me know. I ran one of those in years past.
Haven't posted here in a while.
We had another successful year.
Won both the XP and SSM National championships.
Not really sure what the next steps or next direction for the car is.
Full XP seems intriguing but I like the car being a real street car.
Seriously considering going away from the Torsen diff this winter.
After breaking the 3rd crankshaft I'm finally going billet, it should be here in about 8 weeks.
Other than that...not sure what to do to make the car faster. Open to ideas at this point.
Nothing really to add other than congrats. A couple championships is a nice close to the year.
10-07-2019, 03:39 PM
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